Crank It Up on the Fourth

relish the holiday

Crank It Up on the Fourth

Had Thomas Jefferson thrown a July 4th picnic on the west lawn of Monticello, his menu might have been similar to a modern holiday picnic. As famous for his discerning palate as for his stirring prose in the Declaration of Independence, Thomas Jefferson is more closely associated with Independence Day than any of our founding fathers. He died on July 4, exactly 50 years after the Declaration was signed.

On Jefferson's table would probably have been tender ears of the season's first corn, roasted to perfection in their husks; one of those famous Virginia hams, hand-cured and aged in the smokehouse next to Monticello's kitchen, carefully poached and served cold in wafer-thin slices; savory slow-barbecued lamb or beef; crusty cornbread; baked macaroni with cheese; sliced fresh tomatoes; and, of course, vanilla ice cream.

Jefferson is often credited by over-enthusiastic admirers with having brought both ice cream and vanilla to America from France. Historian Karen Hess, who has spent two decades studying the Jefferson culinary papers and gardening records, points out that he didn't?both were around long before Jefferson's sojourn in Paris as America's ambassador. However, she says he may well have had a lot to do with the popularity that both have enjoyed in our country ever since.

Fascinated by everything that crossed his path, Jefferson had a keen interest in food that was unusual for men of his station, and when he liked a dish, he often took the trouble to find out how it was made. He frequently copied recipes to send to his daughter, Martha Jefferson Randolph, who presided over Monticello's table after the death of her mother in 1782. Jefferson himself did not cook, nor did he really know how to, so he often misunderstood the recipes he was copying, making huge gaffs in the method. Of these scribbled recipes, fewer than a dozen survive.

This July 4th, celebrate Jefferson's political legacy with a scoop of his famous vanilla ice cream.


Mr. Jefferson’s Vanilla Ice Cream

Ice creams today are a lot sweeter and a lot less rich than they were in Jefferson's day. To work this indulgence into today's healthier eating style, pile berries on this super-rich dessert. For a lighter version, replace the cream with half-and-half.

Ingredients
2 quarts heavy cream
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds removed
6 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar

Instructions
1. Bring cream and vanilla bean (seeds and bean) to a simmer in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Whisk egg yolks in a bowl until smooth and whisk in sugar. It will be quite thick.
2. Slowly beat about 1 cup hot cream into yolks and then gradually stir this mixture back into the rest of cream. Cook, stirring constantly, until it thickly coats the back of the spoon, about 5 minutes. Strain through a double layer of cheesecloth or a fine strainer and remove vanilla bean; cool. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour or overnight.
3. Freeze custard in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions until set but still a little soft. Yield: about 2½ quarts. Serves 20.


"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe adapted from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.

Nutritional Information
Per serving: 510 calories, 37g fat, 3g prot. , 10g carbs., 0g fiber, 40mg sodium.

French Beans with Vinaigrette

Ingredients
1 pound very thin young green beans (preferably haricot verts)
1/4 teaspoon salt

Vinaigrette:
2 tablespoons wine vinegar or tarragon wine vinegar
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
Fresh ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, chervil, marjoram, or a mix of fresh herbs
Kosher salt (optional)
Instructions
1. Snap off ends of beans, pulling off strings (if there are any). Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a 3-quart pot over high heat. Add beans. Return to a boil and cook until beans are just tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Combine vinegar, oil, salt and pepper. Drizzle over beans; sprinkle with herbs and kosher salt. You’ll have extra vinaigrette left over. Serves 4.

"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe adapted from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.


Nutritional Information
Per serving: 130 calories, 11g fat, 2g prot., 8g carbs., 4g fiber, 150mg sodium.

Raspberry Vinegar

Though this flavorful vinegar can be used as we use raspberry vinegar today, in Thomas Jefferson’s day it’s primary use was as a surprisingly delicious beverage. Remember that those were pre-soft drink days. Flavored vinegars, sweetened and cut with chilled water, were a popular and refreshingly tingly (but not in the least sour) summer drink.

Ingredients
1 pound (4 cups) fresh or frozen raspberries
2 cups red wine vinegar
1 cup Simple Syrup (optional)

Simple Syrup:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
Instructions
1. If using fresh berries, rinse and drain them well. Put them in a stainless steel or glass bowl and lightly crush them. If using frozen berries, put them in while still frozen. Crushing is unnecessary. Stir in the vinegar, cover with cheesecloth or wire mesh (a large mesh colander or frying splatter screen would be ideal), and let stand 48 hours.
2. Strain the vinegar through a wire strainer (lined with cheesecloth if the mesh is not fine enough to catch all the solids). The vinegar can be bottled, sealed, and used as is, both as a base for beverages and as a condiment. To use it as a beverage, allow 2 to 3 tablespoons per 8 ounces of ice water and sweeten to taste.
3. To make raspberry vinegar syrup for use as a beverage, mix the vinegar with Simple Syrup (recipe follows). Allow 2 to 4 tablespoons (to taste) per 8 ounces of ice water.

Simple Syrup: Stir sugar and water together in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer until it is reduced to the consistency of honey (230 degrees on a candy thermometer), about 1 cup. Take it from the heat and cool it before using.

Makes about 2 ½ cups for use as vinegar, or 3 ½ cups for use as beverage syrup

"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.

Beef à la Daube Le Maire

This recipe was copied out by Thomas Jefferson himself. We took a few details from his cousin Mary Randolph’s recipe in The Virginia House-Wife. Note the difference between lean salt pork and fat back (salt cured pork fat), since both are used here. You will need to start at least a day ahead to allow time for the clarifying and jelling of the aspic.



Ingredients
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 teaspoon whole allspice berries
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
Whole nutmeg
Generous pinch ground cayenne pepper
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
8 ounces salt-cured fat back, sliced into long ¼-inch-thick strips
3½ pounds boneless beef eye or top round
Salt
1 large onion, peeled and diced
2 large carrots, peeled and diced
1 pound beef shank (bone-in), cut into ½-inch-thick slices
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, or 2 teaspoons dried
4 ounces (2 to 3 slices) lean salt pork
Whites and shells of 4 large eggs
Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
Instructions
1. Begin a day ahead. Grind the cloves, allspice, and pepper to a powder using a mortar and pestle or an electric spice mill. Grate in 2 teaspoons of nutmeg and add the cayenne pepper. Mix the spices and parsley in a wide shallow bowl. Roll the fat back in the spices and put them on a wax-paper-lined baking sheet. Freeze until firm, about 30 minutes.
2. Rinse and dry the beef. With a long thin narrow-bladed boning knife, poke all the way through the meat, leaving the blade in place. Take a strip of chilled fat back and clamp it onto a larding needle. Slide the needle along the blade of the filet knife until it protrudes from the other side. Carefully pull the needle all the way through, threading the pork into the meat, and remove the knife. Loosen the needle and repeat at 1-inch intervals. All the fat back may not be needed. Rub the meat with the remaining spice mixture and a little salt, keeping in mind that the seasoned fat back will also flavor the meat.
3. Spread the onion and carrots on the bottom of a deep heavy-bottomed Dutch oven that is just large enough to hold all the meat in a snug fit. Put in the meat, surround it with the slices of beef shank, and sprinkle with thyme. Lay any remaining seasoned fat back and salt pork slices over the meat and add enough water to just cover.
4. Bring slowly to a simmer over medium heat, loosely covered, and carefully skim any scum as it rises to the surface. Reduce the heat and cook at a bare simmer until the meat is tender, about 3 hours. Remove it to a platter, let it cool, and then cover it loosely. Raise the heat to medium and continue simmering the broth until reduced by one-third. Strain and let it cool. Refrigerate both the meat and broth until well chilled, about 4 hours.
5. Carefully remove and discard the solidified fat from the broth and put the jellied broth in a large saucepan. If it has not sufficiently jelled, return it to a simmer and cook until reduced by about one-quarter. Let cool. If sufficiently jelled, warm it over medium-low heat until barely melted. Whisk the egg whites until frothy. Crush the eggshells and mix them into the whites. Stir this into the broth and slowly bring to a simmer. Simmer gently until the eggs solidify and rise to the top. Gently push their mass aside and take a spoonful of broth with a bright metal spoon to make sure it is sparkling clear. Set a strainer lined with clean cotton muslin into a shallow pan and carefully ladle the broth into it, letting it drip through. Cool once more until it begins to thicken but not yet jell.
6. Thinly slice the beef across the grain and arrange it, overlapping slightly, on a platter. Spoon some of the broth over the beef, cover, and chill until it jells. Spoon on a second layer of broth and chill until jelled. Meanwhile, pour the remaining broth into a shallow 9-inch-square pan and chill until solid. Break up the jelly by raking it with a fork or knife and use it to garnish the platter. Just before serving, sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Serves 8 to 10.

"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.

Roast Chicken

Ingredients
1 young chicken (preferably less than 2 ½ pounds, but no more than 3½ pounds)
Salt
Whole black pepper in a pepper mill
About 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Instructions
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 500 degrees for at least 20 minutes. Wash the chicken inside and out under cold running water and pat dry. Liberally rub it inside and out with salt and several grinding of pepper. Let it rest at room temperature until the oven is ready, about 30 minutes.
2. Lightly butter a heavy oval roasting pan that is a little bigger than the chicken. Lightly rub the bird’s breast with butter and put it in the pan breast side up. Roast 10 minutes.
3. Baste well with butter and, using tongs and a carving fork, turn it onto one side. Reduce the heat to 400 degrees and roast 10 minutes. Carefully turn it onto the other side, basting with more pan juices, and roast 10 minutes more. Gently turn it breast side down, baste with pan juices, and cook for about 15 to 20 minutes more, or until the juices run clear and a meat thermometer inserted between the thigh and body registers 160 degrees. When it is done, turn it breast side up and let the skin brown, about 5 minutes more.
4. Remove the chicken to a warm serving platter. Spoon off as much fat as possible from the drippings and pour them over the bird. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serves 3 to 4.

"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.

Baked Macaroni

For baked macaroni as it was probably served at Monticello, we turn to Mary Randolph’s “Macaroni” in The Virginia House-Wife, which is essentially the same as a recipe that survives in the family manuscripts. Thomas Jefferson preferred real imported Parmesan cheese and tried to keep Monticello’s larder stocked with a ready supply. Today, you’ll find labeled “Parmigiano-Reggiano” in the market.

Ingredients
4 cups whole milk
1 pound tube-shaped macaroni, such as small penne
Salt
8 ounces Parmesan cheese (preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano), or extra sharp Farmhouse Cheddar
About 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced




Instructions
1. Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat it to 375 degrees. Stir together the milk and 4 cups of water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Add the macaroni, stirring well, and return to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the macaroni is tender (about 2 minutes for fresh, 4 to 6 minutes for fresh and dried, and 8 to 12 minutes for dried and boxed). Lightly drain the macaroni in a colander (it should be a little wet) and return to the pot. Season with salt to taste and toss well.
2. Lightly butter a 2-quart casserole and cover the bottom with a third of the macaroni. Dot it with a third of the butter and shave a third of the cheese over it with a vegetable peeler or mandolin. Repeat the layers twice more, finishing with a thick layer of cheese. Bake until golden brown, about 20 to 30 minutes. Serves 6.

"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.

By Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking and New Southern Kitchen. Fowler lives in Savannah, Ga.

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Damon Fowler gives such a wonderful history of food. Before reading his recipes I never gave food history much thought... Now I find myself curious about it all . This recipe for macaroni and cheese is to die for!
Mary Pearson
12/2/06 8:46 PM

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