On Jefferson's table would probably have been tender ears of the season's first corn, roasted to perfection in their husks; one of those famous Virginia hams, hand-cured and aged in the smokehouse next to Monticello's kitchen, carefully poached and served cold in wafer-thin slices; savory slow-barbecued lamb or beef; crusty cornbread; baked macaroni with cheese; sliced fresh tomatoes; and, of course, vanilla ice cream.
Jefferson is often credited by over-enthusiastic admirers with having brought both ice cream and vanilla to America from France. Historian Karen Hess, who has spent two decades studying the Jefferson culinary papers and gardening records, points out that he didn't?both were around long before Jefferson's sojourn in Paris as America's ambassador. However, she says he may well have had a lot to do with the popularity that both have enjoyed in our country ever since.
Fascinated by everything that crossed his path, Jefferson had a keen interest in food that was unusual for men of his station, and when he liked a dish, he often took the trouble to find out how it was made. He frequently copied recipes to send to his daughter, Martha Jefferson Randolph, who presided over Monticello's table after the death of her mother in 1782. Jefferson himself did not cook, nor did he really know how to, so he often misunderstood the recipes he was copying, making huge gaffs in the method. Of these scribbled recipes, fewer than a dozen survive.
This July 4th, celebrate Jefferson's political legacy with a scoop of his famous vanilla ice cream.
Mr. Jefferson’s Vanilla Ice Cream
Ingredients
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds removed
6 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar
2. Slowly beat about 1 cup hot cream into yolks and then gradually stir this mixture back into the rest of cream. Cook, stirring constantly, until it thickly coats the back of the spoon, about 5 minutes. Strain through a double layer of cheesecloth or a fine strainer and remove vanilla bean; cool. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour or overnight.
3. Freeze custard in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions until set but still a little soft. Yield: about 2½ quarts. Serves 20.
"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe adapted from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.
French Beans with Vinaigrette
1/4 teaspoon salt
Vinaigrette:
2 tablespoons wine vinegar or tarragon wine vinegar
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
Fresh ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, chervil, marjoram, or a mix of fresh herbs
Kosher salt (optional)
2. Combine vinegar, oil, salt and pepper. Drizzle over beans; sprinkle with herbs and kosher salt. You’ll have extra vinaigrette left over. Serves 4.
"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe adapted from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.
Raspberry Vinegar
Ingredients
2 cups red wine vinegar
1 cup Simple Syrup (optional)
Simple Syrup:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
2. Strain the vinegar through a wire strainer (lined with cheesecloth if the mesh is not fine enough to catch all the solids). The vinegar can be bottled, sealed, and used as is, both as a base for beverages and as a condiment. To use it as a beverage, allow 2 to 3 tablespoons per 8 ounces of ice water and sweeten to taste.
3. To make raspberry vinegar syrup for use as a beverage, mix the vinegar with Simple Syrup (recipe follows). Allow 2 to 4 tablespoons (to taste) per 8 ounces of ice water.
Simple Syrup: Stir sugar and water together in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer until it is reduced to the consistency of honey (230 degrees on a candy thermometer), about 1 cup. Take it from the heat and cool it before using.
Makes about 2 ½ cups for use as vinegar, or 3 ½ cups for use as beverage syrup
"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.
Beef à la Daube Le Maire
Ingredients
1 teaspoon whole allspice berries
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
Whole nutmeg
Generous pinch ground cayenne pepper
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
8 ounces salt-cured fat back, sliced into long ¼-inch-thick strips
3½ pounds boneless beef eye or top round
Salt
1 large onion, peeled and diced
2 large carrots, peeled and diced
1 pound beef shank (bone-in), cut into ½-inch-thick slices
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, or 2 teaspoons dried
4 ounces (2 to 3 slices) lean salt pork
Whites and shells of 4 large eggs
Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
2. Rinse and dry the beef. With a long thin narrow-bladed boning knife, poke all the way through the meat, leaving the blade in place. Take a strip of chilled fat back and clamp it onto a larding needle. Slide the needle along the blade of the filet knife until it protrudes from the other side. Carefully pull the needle all the way through, threading the pork into the meat, and remove the knife. Loosen the needle and repeat at 1-inch intervals. All the fat back may not be needed. Rub the meat with the remaining spice mixture and a little salt, keeping in mind that the seasoned fat back will also flavor the meat.
3. Spread the onion and carrots on the bottom of a deep heavy-bottomed Dutch oven that is just large enough to hold all the meat in a snug fit. Put in the meat, surround it with the slices of beef shank, and sprinkle with thyme. Lay any remaining seasoned fat back and salt pork slices over the meat and add enough water to just cover.
4. Bring slowly to a simmer over medium heat, loosely covered, and carefully skim any scum as it rises to the surface. Reduce the heat and cook at a bare simmer until the meat is tender, about 3 hours. Remove it to a platter, let it cool, and then cover it loosely. Raise the heat to medium and continue simmering the broth until reduced by one-third. Strain and let it cool. Refrigerate both the meat and broth until well chilled, about 4 hours.
5. Carefully remove and discard the solidified fat from the broth and put the jellied broth in a large saucepan. If it has not sufficiently jelled, return it to a simmer and cook until reduced by about one-quarter. Let cool. If sufficiently jelled, warm it over medium-low heat until barely melted. Whisk the egg whites until frothy. Crush the eggshells and mix them into the whites. Stir this into the broth and slowly bring to a simmer. Simmer gently until the eggs solidify and rise to the top. Gently push their mass aside and take a spoonful of broth with a bright metal spoon to make sure it is sparkling clear. Set a strainer lined with clean cotton muslin into a shallow pan and carefully ladle the broth into it, letting it drip through. Cool once more until it begins to thicken but not yet jell.
6. Thinly slice the beef across the grain and arrange it, overlapping slightly, on a platter. Spoon some of the broth over the beef, cover, and chill until it jells. Spoon on a second layer of broth and chill until jelled. Meanwhile, pour the remaining broth into a shallow 9-inch-square pan and chill until solid. Break up the jelly by raking it with a fork or knife and use it to garnish the platter. Just before serving, sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Serves 8 to 10.
"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.
Roast Chicken
Salt
Whole black pepper in a pepper mill
About 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2. Lightly butter a heavy oval roasting pan that is a little bigger than the chicken. Lightly rub the bird’s breast with butter and put it in the pan breast side up. Roast 10 minutes.
3. Baste well with butter and, using tongs and a carving fork, turn it onto one side. Reduce the heat to 400 degrees and roast 10 minutes. Carefully turn it onto the other side, basting with more pan juices, and roast 10 minutes more. Gently turn it breast side down, baste with pan juices, and cook for about 15 to 20 minutes more, or until the juices run clear and a meat thermometer inserted between the thigh and body registers 160 degrees. When it is done, turn it breast side up and let the skin brown, about 5 minutes more.
4. Remove the chicken to a warm serving platter. Spoon off as much fat as possible from the drippings and pour them over the bird. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serves 3 to 4.
"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.
Baked Macaroni
Ingredients
1 pound tube-shaped macaroni, such as small penne
Salt
8 ounces Parmesan cheese (preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano), or extra sharp Farmhouse Cheddar
About 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
2. Lightly butter a 2-quart casserole and cover the bottom with a third of the macaroni. Dot it with a third of the butter and shave a third of the cheese over it with a vegetable peeler or mandolin. Repeat the layers twice more, finishing with a thick layer of cheese. Bake until golden brown, about 20 to 30 minutes. Serves 6.
"Relish the Holiday," June 2006. Recipe from Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, edited by Damon Lee Fowler and published by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Inc., 2005. Distributed by the University of North Carolina Press.
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