Just Peachy

the season

Just Peachy

"You don't like my peaches, baby / don't you shake my tree", goes the old blues standard, but everyone sings the praises of this juicy, voluptuous fruit during peach season. Undoubtedly the best way to eat a ripe peach is standing over the kitchen sink with the juices running down your arms; but when you have guests and a bit more decorum is in order, slice them, toss with sugar and spices, and tuck inside a shortcake or under a crunchy brown sugar topping . . . or both.


Broiled Peach Halves with Vanilla and Black Peppercorns

A lighter but intensely flavored offering, this dish can be served with or without ice cream and a plain cookie or slice of cake. It is sweet but not too sweet and a little piquant, so it can also serve as an accompaniment to a main course like roast chicken.

Ingredients
8 peaches, pitted, halved, but not peeled
1 tablespoon butter, softened

Glaze:
¾ cup no-sugar-added peach or peach-apple juice
3 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
3 tablespoons dark rum (optional)
2 tablespoon peach liqueur (optional)
2 tablespoons coarse sugar, such as turbinado
Vanilla ice cream (optional)
Instructions
1. Preheat oven to 425F. Toss peach halves with softened butter, and butter a shallow baking dish, or 2 smaller dishes, large enough to accommodate the peaches without squeezing them in (a little air space around them is desirable). Place peaches, hollow side up, in the dish(es). Bake, uncovered, for 15 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, combine all glaze ingredients and bring to a hard boil. Let cook 5 to 7 minutes or until slightly reduced and syrupy. (If you’re omitting the brandy and peach liqueur, make up the difference with extra juice).
Remove peaches from oven, and raise oven temperature to broil. Strain peppercorns from glaze. Pour glaze over peaches and sprinkle a little turbinado over each peach half.
3. Broil peaches for 3 to 5 minutes, watching closely, until sugar melts and caramelizes. Serve a bit of the glaze over each peach half; if accompanying with ice cream, drizzle glaze over the ice cream. Serves 4 as dessert; 8 as side dish.

Recipe by Crescent Dragonwagon, "Relish the Season," June 2006

Peach Filling

A versatile filling or shortcakes and crisps or spooned over pancakes or ice cream.

Ingredients
2 1/2 to 3 pounds peaches (about 6 to 8 peaches), peeled, pitted and sliced
1/2 cup fruit-only peach preserves
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar (optional)
1/2 to 1 tablespoon peach liqueur, peach schnapps or peach brandy (optional)
1/8 teaspoon almond extract
Instructions
1. Combine all filling ingredients in a large bowl, tossing well. Using your hand, coarsely mash 1 or 2 handfuls of peaches. This releases their juice but still leaves plenty of texture. Set the filling aside while you make the shortcake or crisp. Yield: 5 to 6 cups.

Recipe by Crescent Dragonwagon, "Relish the Season," June 2006.

Peach Shortcake

We liked the nutty taste of the shortcake made with whole-wheat flour, but you can use all white flour if you prefer.

Ingredients
Filling:
2 1/2 to 3 pounds peaches (about 6 to 8 peaches), peeled, pitted and sliced
1/2 cup fruit-only peach preserves
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar (optional)
1/2 to 1 tablespoon peach liqueur, peach schnapps or peach brandy (optional)
1/8 teaspoon almond extract


Shortcake:
Vegetable oil or cooking spray
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups whole-wheat flour
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar, divided
3 ¼ teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
1/3 cup cold butter, cut into small pieces
4 1/2 tablespoons vegetable shortening, in small pieces
1 cup buttermilk
2 eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 recipe Peach Filling
1 1/2 cups whipped topping
Fresh raspberries (optional)
Instructions
1. To prepare the filling, combine all filling ingredients in a large bowl, tossing well. Using your hand, coarsely mash 1 or 2 handfuls of peaches. This releases their juice but still leaves plenty of texture. Set the filling aside while you make the shortcake.
2. Preheat oven to 425F. Lightly oil or spray a baking sheet.
3. To prepare the shortcake, combine flours, 1/2 cup sugar, baking powder, soda and salt in a food processor.
3. Add butter and shortening and pulse quickly to make a crumbly mixture (alternatively, add sifted ingredients to a bowl and cut shortening and butter in by hand).
4. In a small bowl, combine buttermilk, eggs and vanilla, beating well with a fork.
5. With the processor running, pour in buttermilk mixture and pulse a couple of times until dough holds together.
6. Place dough on prepared baking sheet; gently pat into a 12-inch round. Sprinkle with 3 tablespoons sugar.
7. Bake 15 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool on a rack until only slightly warm.
8. Slice cake into wedges. Cut each wedge open and spoon peach filling over bottom. Top with whipped topping and top of wedge. Garnish with fresh raspberries. Serves 8.

Recipe by Crescent Dragonwagon, "Relish the Season," June 2006.
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 570 calories, 20g fat, 12g prot., 90g carbs., 7g fiber, 170mg sodium.

Recipes by Crescent Dragonwagon, the author of Passionate Vegetarian and The Cornbread Gospels (forthcoming), who lives in Saxtons River, Vt.

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