Like many small orchard owners, Klein focuses on growing apples for taste and is devoted to his refractometer, a hand-held gadget, more typically found in vineyards, to measure the brix, or sugar level, in fruit. “When we pick fruit at the peak of ripeness, it shows up when you bite into it,” says Klein.
Klein and other growers like him are doing their part to save the old-time flavors of heirloom varieties—Red Cortland, Senshu and Northern Spy are just a few of the heirlooms Klein grows. While most grocery stores carry about four varieties of apples, many more are quietly gaining attention. Slow Food, an organization that seeks to save flavors at risk of being lost, lists 129 varieties of American apples on its Ark of Taste program, many with enticing names like Buckingham Buff, Westfield Seek-No-Further and Rusty Coat. And the risk of losing these apples is real—in 1904 the United States listed 7,800 varieties of apples. We now have around 200.
Klein has found an enthusiastic audience for his heirloom apples, available at specialty food shops, at farmers markets in the Chicago area and Ann Arbor and online. To view his line of fresh fruits, dried fruits and preserves, visit www.seedlingfruit.com
Holy Trinity Apple Crisp
Ingredients
1½ cups old-fashioned oatmeal
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
½ teaspoon salt
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Filling:
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
4 pounds apples (about 10), peeled, cored and sliced
2. To make the topping, combine oats, flour, sugars and salt. With a pastry blender or hands, cut in butter until topping is crumbly.
3. To make the filling, combine brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg and cloves in a large mixing bowl. Add apple slices and toss to coat. Spoon into a 3-quart baking dish and cover with topping. Bake about 50 minutes or until fruit bubbles and topping is browned. Serves 10.
"Relish a New American Farmer," October 2006.
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