One Good Apple

october 2006

One Good Apple

When Peter Klein learned that his favorite fruit farmers were retiring, he did what many food enthusiasts dream of. The marketing executive bought their orchards and started his own company—the Seedling Fruit brand. Today, his 80-acre farm in South Haven, Mich., grows more than 20 apple varieties, along with pears, apricots, berries and other fruit.
Like many small orchard owners, Klein focuses on growing apples for taste and is devoted to his refractometer, a hand-held gadget, more typically found in vineyards, to measure the brix, or sugar level, in fruit.  “When we pick fruit at the peak of ripeness, it shows up when you bite into it,” says Klein.
Klein and other growers like him are doing their part to save the old-time flavors of heirloom varieties—Red Cortland, Senshu and Northern Spy are just a few of the heirlooms Klein grows. While most grocery stores carry about four varieties of apples, many more are quietly gaining attention.  Slow Food, an organization that seeks to save flavors at risk of being lost, lists 129 varieties of American apples on its Ark of Taste program, many with enticing names like Buckingham Buff, Westfield Seek-No-Further and Rusty Coat.  And the risk of losing these apples is real—in 1904 the United States listed 7,800 varieties of apples. We now have around 200.
Klein has found an enthusiastic audience for his heirloom apples, available at specialty food shops, at farmers markets in the Chicago area and Ann Arbor and online. To view his line of fresh fruits, dried fruits and preserves, visit www.seedlingfruit.com


Holy Trinity Apple Crisp

Peter Klein’s staff at Seedling Fruit coined the term “holy trinity of pie apples” to refer to their favorite combination of Northern Spy, Golden Grimes and Ida Red. Baked together they make a tastebud-bursting combination. If you can’t find them, try Granny Smith, Rome Beauty and Gala.

Ingredients
Topping:
1½ cups old-fashioned oatmeal
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
½ teaspoon salt
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Filling:
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
4 pounds apples (about 10), peeled, cored and sliced

Instructions
1. Preheat the oven to 400F.
2. To make the topping, combine oats, flour, sugars and salt. With a pastry blender or hands, cut in butter until topping is crumbly.
3. To make the filling, combine brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg and cloves in a large mixing bowl. Add apple slices and toss to coat. Spoon into a 3-quart baking dish and cover with topping. Bake about 50 minutes or until fruit bubbles and topping is browned. Serves 10.

"Relish a New American Farmer," October 2006.
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 340 calories, 14g fat, 3g prot., 55g carbs., 6g fiber, 230mg sodium.

Janine MacLachlan is a freelance writer, cooking teacher and co-leader of Slow Food Chicago.

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