He Says, She Says November 2008

Thanksgiving menu, including: Butternut Squash and Apple Bisque; Citrus-Marinated Roasted Turkey; Citrus Gravy, Chile Cornbread Stuffing; Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Garlic and Parmesan; Radicchio Caesar Salad; Spiced Pumpkin Pie

Chuck says: Could this be the ultimate food lover's holiday? For sheer scale, it's hard to argue against it. I mean, how often do we put 15- or 20-pound-plus objects in our ovens? Probably not so often—but isn't it fun when we do? And then, to really ratchet up the excitement, there's the sheer volume of food involved, and the humongous variety of dishes. Obviously, this particular Thanksgiving lineup doesn't disappoint on any of those counts, with big food — lots of it — and a kaleidoscope of flavors. So, given the magnitude of the menu, how 'bout we spend this month simply focusing on what makes a good Thanksgiving wine? Are you game, my friend?

OK, now before we get carried away here, let's acknowledge that there's sometimes trouble in this gustatory paradise—all too often, Thanksgiving ain't exactly the awesomest ever event for wine lovers. Because it's a big, big, big holiday, wine enthusiasts naturally want to pour something truly special, but many times, they're shooting themselves in the foot. All those tongue-tickling, sweet, tart, bitter and spicy food flavors can squish the stuffing out of most wines, making them taste dull, and not at all what they're cracked up to be. That's a massive letdown when you've plunked down beaucoup bucks for a serious wine.

So what do we do about it? First, save serious wines for dinners featuring a narrower range of milder flavors. This allows the wine to take center stage, as it should. Second, think refreshment quality for Thanksgiving wines. With a carnival of tongue-numbing flavors, you will welcome sips of something quenching, even palate-cleansing, in-between bites. I'll toss out a couple of suggestions in a few different categories.

Sparkling. Among the most refreshing and festive of all wines, bubblies can be delicious throughout the entire meal. Each sprightly sip gets you ready for a bite of something new. Spanish cava makes a lovely Thanksgiving choice, and it almost always represents amazing value for money. Last night, a friend brought over a bottle of Segura Viudas Heredad reserva, which I’m sure we’ve talked about before. It would be a magnificent — and inexpensive — choice for this menu.

White. Pleasant and satisfying throughout dinner, white wine can offer oodles of style and quenching zip. For Thanksgiving, I don’t want anything watery-thin, but don’t want to sacrifice a bit of zing on the finish, either. What provides ample body, balanced with plenty of tang? Try Oregon Pinot Gris. Adelsheim’s version is plenty nice for special occasions, and will complement turkey to a T.

Red. This is where many wine lovers get in trouble on Thanksgiving — especially if they lean toward big-time Cabs and Malbecs. Save that great Bordeaux for another day, too. If you’ve gotta have red, tend more toward the light side, with a wine packing plenty of acidity. With a characteristic bright red cherry kiss at the finish, Sangiovese’s going to be the one for me this year. You’ll find this variety most often in Italy’s Chianti—go for one labeled either Chianti Classico or Rufina.

Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on this, pal!

Wini says: You thunder-stealer, you! I wrote on this exact same topic in this month’s Relish magazine (page 23). Indeed you want palate-perking brightness with whatever you sip at Thanksgiving. No rich, ripe, super-fruity, big, brawny bruisers here — why fill up on a heavy wine when you have all that wonderful food to eat? Instead, reach for something that gets to the heart of what wine does best: sets you up for the next festive bite.

I agree with every single one of your picks; in the red category, I would only add Rioja (Tempranillo-based wines from Spain). Look for the word “crianza” on the label—that’s the code-word for the lesser-aged brighter sips, which will go best on the Thanksgiving table.

As for whites, I’m going to put out a few Sauvignon Blancs on the table. I know we think of this as a summer sip (with all that refreshing citrusy appeal), but there are plenty of bottles that rein in the zing, craft in some roundness, but still provide refreshment to spare. Since the Relish article went to press, I’ve discovered two more great bottles—both from Washington State: Snoqualmie Sauvignon Blanc and Waterbrook Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Both hover around $10 a bottle.

Finally, let me sing the praises of pairing sparkling wines with the abundance of foods at the holiday table. My most pleasurable wine epiphany of the year was sipping Mumm Napa Reserve Brut Sparkling Wine with, of all things a juicy red-blooded steak. Truly, a good sparkler goes with everything, soup to nuts. The Mumm Napa line is great in the $18 to $25 range; to go lower, head—as you suggest—to the cavas from Spain.

And, in this economic climate, who isn’t going to love your good advice about not pouring that cellar-worthy trophy-wine with this meal? You can feel good about not spending much more than $20 (and in many cases, much less than $15), even though it’s the holidays. That tune’s going to play beautifully this holiday season.