The Mellow Mushroom

january 2007

The Mellow Mushroom

Behind the charming facade of historic Kennett Square, Pa., a town of spired brick buildings with white gingerbread trim, lies a dark, musky world of compost and decay. Strange smells of ammonia occasionally waft out of low, long windowless buildings. Fear not, these ominous signposts are just evidence of a healthy mushroom population.

Today the town that’s barely more than a mile square is the self-proclaimed “Mushroom Capital of the World,” producing 60 percent of the cultivated mushrooms in the United States. Many families have been here, growing mushrooms, for three generations.

William Phillips was one of the earliest commercial growers, and his business—still owned and operated by his descendants—thrives today. It was Phillips who discovered a way to make this once seasonal crop a year-round industry. By the 1980s, his sons expanded the white mushroom business to handle more than 12 million pounds a year. Today, they are the largest grower of specialty mushrooms in the nation, distributing more than 35 million mushrooms a year.

Mushrooms 101

To clean mushrooms, wipe with damp paper towels or rinse with water just before using. Never immerse in water or they will get mushy. Store in a paper bag in the refrigerator where air can circulate.

  1. Crimini: These brown mushrooms are baby portabellas and can substitute for white button mushrooms in any recipe. They have a heartier, earthier flavor than white mushrooms.
  2. Shiitake: These tan-colored mushrooms have broad caps and a spongy texture well suited to many cooking methods, including stir-fries, braising, grilling and roasting. They are not served raw, and the woody stems are not consumed (though they can be used to flavor stocks and sauces).
  3. Oyster: Gracefully shaped oyster mushrooms range in color from taupe to brown, have a velvet-like texture. They are served cooked and usually paired with ingredients that won’t overwhelm their delicate flavor.
  4. Enoki: The long stems (that should be trimmed) and tiny button caps of enoki set them apart from most other mushrooms. Serve them raw in salads and sandwiches for crunch and a mild, refreshing flavor. They also make an attractive garnish.
  5. Morel: Morel caps are unmistakable: they are somewhat conical with a highly textured surface and a rich, nutty aroma. Small morels are often used whole in delicate sauces, while larger ones are prized for the woodsy, slightly sweet flavor and fragrance they add to everything from stews and soups to risottos and pasta.
  6. Portabella : These large relatives of white mushrooms have a beefy texture and deep, meaty flavor. They usually range from 3 to 6 inches in diameter. They generally are not eaten raw, but they make a great vegetable substitute for a burger and can be sliced and sautéed, stuffed and used to replace meat in stir-fries and sauces.
  7. Recipes adapted from the Mushroom Council (www.mushroomcouncil.com).

Coq Au Vin Nouveau

Serve this savory dish with rice, noodles or roasted potatoes.

Ingredients
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces lean smoked ham, chopped
8 chicken thighs, skinned
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 medium onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
8 ounces crimini or white mushrooms, sliced (about 3 cups)
8 ounces shiitake mushrooms
1 cup fruity white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 (14-ounce) can lower-sodium chicken broth
2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced 1/2-inch thick
2 celery stalks, sliced 1/2-inch thick
2 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried
Instructions
1. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven. Add ham and sauté 5 minutes. Remove.
2. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper and dredge in flour. Cook chicken in same pan until brown. Remove.
3. Add onion, garlic and mushrooms; sauté 3 minutes. Add wine, chicken broth, carrots, celery, thyme and reserved chicken and ham. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer 25 minutes or until chicken is tender. Remove cover; cook about 10 minutes or until sauce thickens slightly. Serves 4.

Recipe courtesy of the Mushroom Council, www.mushroomcouncil.com


Nutritional Information
Per serving: 610 calories, 16g fat, 52g prot., 53g carbs., 10g fiber, 1030mg sodium.

Chinese Style Stir-Fried Mushrooms

Shiitake stems can be tough. Remove them or trim the tough bottom part. Cook with stir-fry in a very hot so the mushrooms don’t water out. Serve over beef, tofu or Asian noodles.

Ingredients
1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 1/2 cups shiitake, crimini, morel or enoki mushrooms
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon chopped green onion tops
Toasted sesame seeds (optional)





Instructions
1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add, ginger and garlic; sauté 1 minute. Add mushrooms; cook, stirring frequently, 3 to 4 minutes or until mushrooms are golden brown. Add soy sauce and sesame oil; cook and stir 1 to 2 minutes or until most of the soy sauce evaporates.
2. Remove from heat; sprinkle with green onion. Top with toasted sesame seeds, if desired. Serves 3.

Recipe courtesy of the Mushroom Council, www.mushroomcouncil.com
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 130 calories, 10g fat, 3g prot., 7g carbs., 3g fiber, 440mg sodium.

Marge Perry is a food writer in Tenafly, N.J.

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