He Says, She Says February 2007

Wini Says: Wow—the beer really has me stumped here. I’m more inclined to drink beer with beer-laced recipes. So then my thinking is this: What other regions of the world make both great beers and great wines—and therefore wouldn’t mind bringing both to the table now and then? Hmmmm. I’m homing in on Germany and Alsace right now. And since I’m just such a fan of Alsatian wines (those aromatic yet steely whites), I’m going to say, heck, let’s do a nice, dry Alsace-style Riesling or one of their blends, like Pierre Spar Alsace One or Hugel “Gentil.”

You see, Alsatians often pair their whites with cured meats (think: Choucroute Garnie)—the wine’s acidity cuts through the meat’s richness. The bacon in this recipe sings to that tune. And aren’t we often pairing Rieslings (albeit sweeter ones) with chile-sparked food? In my experience, a little heat brings up the fruit nicely in the wine.

I’m going with Alsace white blends or Rieslings. What about you, Chas.? Recently I tasted the most amazing, citrusy-puckery steely-dry Riesling (a Léon Beyer Riesling), and that, I think would nail it, especially if you make good use of the lime wedges to finish off the recipe.

Chuck says: You weren’t the only one stumped here, Wini! I’m so with you on the beer, but the other challenge is, how ‘bout those lime wedges? I mean, up to that point, I’m actually thinking red here, not white. But the limes’ flavor and acidity could actually bring out a nasty metallic edge in some reds. Not pleasant.

If it simply has to be red, I’d say, go easy on the lime—just a kiss—and match this with something on the lighter, less tannic side. What I’ve got in mind is a Cotes du Rhone, and the Delas Freres St. Esprit might be just the ticket. It has just enough body and easygoing tannins to complement hearty beans—and the beer—without packing the sort of big, red wine wallop that can leave your tastebuds reeling. This is a red wine that gets along great with lots of foods. If I didn’t want to go with white, and that super choice of Alsatian Riesling, I’d think about giving Cotes du Rhone a try with this dish.

Runner Cannellini Bean Salad

Wini Says: This one’s almost tooooooo easy! You see cannellini beans, you spot the triumvirate of onion, celery, and carrot that makes a base for so many great Italian dishes. You suddenly start thinking of the rustic yet wholly satisfying food of Tuscany, so you reach for their hallmark wine, Chianti; its simple appeal will just mesh so well with this dish, especially if you serve it with a simple grilled or roasted meat or chicken.

Remember, if you find some Chianti’s too tart and austere for your taste, take a look at those suggested in this month’s wine column. Also—always drink Chianti with food, it just tastes so much better.

Chuck says: I totally agree with always drinking Chianti with food, and it’s a style of wine I adore. And, I think the tartness of Chianti sounds great with this salad. Serving it as a side dish alongside roasted or grilled chicken is another strong argument for the Chianti—that’d be super all-around. But once again, we might want to take a look at the other side of the coin.

Let’s say we’re going to serve the salad on its own, as an appetizer or light main dish. In that case, I’d consider going with a well-rounded white, not too tart, not too light, and not flamboyant, either. There are loads of full, fresh flavors in the salad—especially the tomato, oregano, bell pepper, and olive oil—that would get along great with the right white wine. For me, that might mean an Oregon Pinot Gris. Where lighter whites could easily be knocked around by these flavors, this is a wine that won’t be ignored, but also won’t duke it out in a slugfest with the food. Although there’s lots of good Oregon Pinot Gris out there, the fine-tuned balance of King Estate’s wines might be what I’d turn to here.

Kalua Pork

Wini Says: OMG! I can’t wait to try this recipe—I’m nuts about pork shoulder (called Boston Butt in some areas of the country). When braised or roasted, the nicely marbled cut comes out the way pork ought to taste—not lean, dry and mean, but soft, succulent and bold. YUM!

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I might go for an Alsatian white again—I just love the way these steely babies can cut through the meat’s richness. However, some folks are going to really want a red with this, and for that I say: Go for a Syrah—especially one with a little spice that will match the garlic here, and a little jamminess that will go well with the heavy-osity of the meat. Hahn Estates Central Coast Vineyards Shiraz and Peter Lehman Barossa Shiraz are both good picks.

Chuck says: Yeah, this is killer—and using just a hit of liquid smoke to inject some grilled character into roasted pork is genius. Actually, that’s a big reason why I’m going red all the way on this, and you know what? There’s no way I’m going to quibble with Syrah, either. It needs to be a big, bold Syrah, too, as I know you’re suggesting. And, no point in mincing words—as we all know, marbling is another way of describing, rich, flavorful, juicy fat! I say, go with matching richness and texture in the wine you pour to complement this roast.

In addition to the great choices you mention above, a big Syrah from Washington State would be wicked here. Syrahs from Washington have been steadily gaining prestige over the past few years, and there are good ones at just about every price point. If you want both inexpensive and good (who doesn’t?) you’d be hard-pressed to beat Columbia Crest’s Two Vines Shiraz. At the pricier end of the spectrum, look for Syrahs grown—not just produced—in the famous Walla Walla region.

Quick Pork Posole

Wini Says: Well, I love posole, but I can’t say this is the most wine-friendly recipe in the bunch. Chuck—what would you say to a Gewurztraminer? At its best, this wine has lots of fruit and floral notes and a spiciness that combines for a wild little wine. Sometimes, this bold wine mellows a bit with stronger foods.

Chuck says: With 5 chile peppers, it’s time to fight spice with spice, and I’m going with gewürz, too. But this time around, please allow me to be the one singing the praises of Alsace, where you’ll not only find the beautifully distinctive gewürz nose, but plenty of dry acidity to cut through and enhance all those tasty garnishes—no matter how many you pile on. I’d dig in my heels on this—only a genuine Alsatian gewürztraminer will do for this dish. In particular, (and I really hate to say this, but . . .) you’ve got to avoid the vast majority of inexpensive, characterless domestic gewürztraminers with this spicy posole.

Hawaiian Pork Quesadillas

Wini Says: At last! I can quit sounding like a broken record and move on from quintessential Alsatian wines. I say Chardonnay for this. Okay, okay, I know that some wine geeks out there are going to say “no way” because of the spiciness—will it clash with such a heavy wine? But I’m looking at the creamy Boursin cheese and the mango—and I’m reaching for a creamier style of Chard with plenty of tropical fruit flavors. And, I must admit, I’m crossing my fingers.

And you, Charles?

Chuck says: If it is Chardonnay, let’s do stay away from the ubiquitous tubby, overblown, clovey-butterscotchy versions—at all costs! But a Chard with refreshing zip to go along with medium—not heavy—body and absolutely, we’re talking winning match with these textures. I see something on the order of Snoqualmie’s snappy-but-fleshy Chard as ideal for the mix of rich cheese, pork, and mango, et al. What would you say to that?

And for this dish, perhaps that’s not the only way one could go. In past columns, Wini, you’ve recommended some very inspiring South African Chenins Blancs—for tropical fruit character to match with the mango in these quesadillas, I think many of those could fill the bill, as well.

Wini says: Yup! Chenin Blanc is a good thought—why do I always forget about those? Thanks for the reminder.

See you next month, Chuck!

I’ll be looking forward to it, Wini!