Urban Cowgirl

may 2007

Urban Cowgirl

Sometimes it’s hard to remember when my life didn’t involve hikes past ancient oak trees and armadillos, a menagerie of animals (goats, sheep, horses, chickens, three dogs and two cats), a bedroom lined with cowboy boots and a subscription to Backyard Poultry. But once upon a time I enjoyed a much different life. Before moving to Texas five years ago, I spent a decade in New York. I wore wrap dresses and high heels, and I didn’t even own a cat. Then, the stars aligned and an unexpected door opened: My husband and I were offered a job to cook on a 5,300-acre guest ranch in Texas Hill Country. And that’s when the real fun began.

I traded in stilettos for cowboy boots, taxicabs for a pickup, and we bought horses, saddles and cowboy hats. The transition was surreal at first, but we settled into ranch life with surprising swiftness.

My rustic surroundings began to influence the food I cooked. In New York, I had worked as a food and travel writer, so I spent most of my time behind a laptop—not a range. The last time I’d cooked full time was the two years I’d spent in Europe, mostly at a chateau in the south of France and an agriturismo (farmhouse bed and breakfast) in Tuscany. When I got to Texas, I melded my passion for all things Mediterranean with fresh local fare and cooking traditions from south-central Texas. I paired a Mexican-inspired vegetable sauté of onions, zucchini, roasted poblanos and corn with a slather goat cheese to create a taco filling. I braised chicken thighs with plenty of sweet onions, tomatoes, ground chiles and smoked Spanish paprika. Being just two hours from the Mexican border, I learned delicious Tex-Mex preparations like Queso Flameado (go to relishmag.com for recipe), a irresistible bake of white cheese and chorizo. I played with campfire flavors: bourbon spilled into batches of brownies.

These days we divide our time between Austin and our own ranch in the Nueces Canyon. I miss New York now and then, but the truth is I’ve gotten awfully attached to freshly made tortillas, cowgirl ensembles and traveling the lonely back roads with my three dogs in the back seat. Besides, where would my ruminants graze?


South Texas Vegetable Tacos with Goat Cheese

Serve with black beans and rice, if desired. If you have leftover vegetables, they’re delicious scrambled with an egg or two (and served in a tortilla, of course) the following day.

Ingredients
2 large poblano chiles
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large red onion, slivered
4 small zucchini, cut into half moons (about 3 cups)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup fresh corn kernels
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Coarsely ground black pepper
8 ounces goat cheese
8 fresh corn tortillas

Instructions
1. Cut chiles in half lengthwise. Place on a foil-lined baking sheet; broil 3 inches from heat 8 minutes or until blackened and charred. Place in a heavy zip-top plastic bag; seal. Let stand 15 minutes. Peel and discard skins and seeds. Chop.
2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion, zucchini and salt; sauté 7 minutes or until lightly browned. Add corn; cook 2 minutes. Add oregano, cilantro, lime juice and chiles; cook, stirring, until thoroughly heated. Season with black pepper.
3. Heat tortillas one at a time in a dry cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Spread each with 2 tablespoons goat cheese, top with vegetable mixture and serve immediately. Serves 4.

Recipe by Paula Disbrowe, "Relish Great Cooks," May 2007.
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 480 calories, 27g fat, 17g prot., 45g carbs., 6g fiber, 610mg sodium.

Bourbon Brownies

Bake these brownies in a 9-inch square pan, so they are thick and chewy, or in a 13-by-9-inch pan for a thinner bar. Wrapped tightly in foil, they keep up to a week and ship particularly well. The cocoa nibs, found in specialty food stores, add a nice crunch.

Ingredients
2 cups dark brown sugar
1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter
2 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 tablespoons bourbon
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup chopped pecans
1 1/4 cups bittersweet chocolate chips
1/2 cup cocoa nibs (optional)
Instructions
1. Preheat oven to 350F. Grease a baking pan (9-inch square or 13-by-9-inch) with butter.
2. Combine sugar and butter in a medium saucepan or microwave-safe bowl and heat until butter melts. Stir well to combine.
3. Combine eggs, vanilla and bourbon in a small bowl.
4. Combine flour, baking powder and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add butter mixture and mix well. Add egg mixture and mix well. Stir in pecans, chocolate chips and cocoa nibs, if using.
5. Spread batter evenly into prepared pan. Bake 35 to 40 minutes in a 9-inch square pan or 25 to 30 minutes in a 13-by-9-inch pan. Cool completely and cut into squares. Makes 16 brownies.

Recipe by Paula Disbrowe, "Relish Great Cooks," May 2007.

Nutritional Information
Per serving: 270 calories, 15g fat, 2g prot., 34g carbs., 0g fiber, 140mg sodium.

Braised Chicken Thighs with Tomatoes and Smoked Paprika

Cooking the thighs slowly produces fall-off-the-bone chicken. Serve with white rice or corn tortillas.

Ingredients
8 bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
Coarsely ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 large sweet onions, thinly sliced
2 large carrots, sliced on the bias into 1/2-inch rounds
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup dry sherry
1 tablespoon smoked Spanish paprika (or pimenton)
1 1/2 teaspoons ground ancho chili powder
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano, crumbled
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 (28-ounce) can peeled tomatoes with their juice

Instructions
1. Trim excess fat from chicken thighs and season with 1 teaspoon salt and pepper.
2. Heat oil in a Dutch oven or deep ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add half the chicken and cook until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes on each side. Transfer to a plate. Cook remaining chicken and transfer to plate. Combine onions and carrots in pan. Add remaining salt and sauté about 6 minutes. Add garlic, bay leaves and sherry; cook 2 minutes, scraping pan to loosen browned bits. Add paprika, chili powder, oregano and cayenne and stir until vegetables are coated with spices.
3. Preheat oven to 325 F.
4. Add tomatoes (using your fingers to break them up) and their juice and cook 2 minutes. Return chicken to pan; cover and bake 2 1/2 hours. Serves 4.

Recipe by Paula Disbrowe, "Relish Great Cooks," May 2007.
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 300 calories, 9g fat, 31g prot., 21g carbs., 5g fiber, 890mg sodium.

Paula Disbrowe is the author of Cowgirl Cuisine (Harper Collins, 2007).

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