Dixie Chick

may 2007

Dixie Chick

I left Kentucky half my life ago, but two things have stuck with me all these years. One is an ineradicable Southern drawl. The other is a Pavlovian response to good fried chicken. Fried chicken seems so simple, but it’s not. Done right, it’s a true delicacy. Of the many contentions between my mom and my late grandma, the most bitter was over fried chicken. Grandma’s rocked, though it’s hard to say what kind of damage her use of Crisco did to our arteries. Mom’s chicken never quite matched up, and my siblings and I made that a particular sticking point when we were mad at her.

During a trip to Atlanta, I decided that the peak chicken experience was at Watershed in Decatur, a restaurant that is owned in part by Emily Sayers of the Indigo Girls and where Scott Peacock is the chef.

Scott’s recipe came out of a collaboration with Edna Lewis, the venerable authority on Southern cooking, who died in February 2006 at the age of 89­ but whose longevity debunks some of the presumed evils associated with Southern cuisine in general and fried chicken in particular. Scott brines his chicken in salt water, soaks it in buttermilk, and throws in a slice of country ham during frying for extra flavor. He dusts it in what he refers to as a “rumor of flour.” The result is even better than my grandma’s, and that’s saying something. Just don’t tell my mom I said so.


Southern Fried Chicken

Soaking the chicken in salt water—or brining—is a trick all good Southern cooks use. Many say it’s the key to the flavor and tenderness of their fried chicken. For a ham flavor, country ham is simmered with the fat. You can substitute 2 cups vegetable oil for the lard.

Ingredients
˝ cup, plus 1 teaspoon, salt, divided
6 cups water
1 (3-pound) chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1 quart buttermilk
1 pound lard
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup country ham pieces, or 1 thick slice country ham cut into 1/2-inch strips
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
Instructions
1. Combine 1/2 cup salt and water in a heavy-duty zip-top plastic bag. Add chicken; seal bag and marinate in refrigerator 8 hours. Drain. Combine chicken and buttermilk in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate 8 to 12 hours. Drain on a wire rack.
2. Combine lard, butter and ham in a heavy skillet. Cook over low heat, skimming as needed, until butter stops foaming and ham is browned, about 30 minutes. Remove ham with a slotted spoon. Increase heat to medium-high and heat fat to 335F.
3. Combine flour, cornstarch, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper on a piece of wax paper.
4. Dredge chicken pieces in flour mixture; tap well to remove excess.
5. Working in batches, place chicken, skin side down, into heated fat. Do not crowd. Cook until chicken is golden brown and cooked, 10 to 12 minutes per side. Pierce with a fork; if juices run clear, chicken is done. Remove and drain thoroughly on a wire rack or crumpled paper towels. Serves 6.

Recipe adapted from Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock's The Gift of Southern Cooking (Knopf, 2003).

Nutritional Information
Per serving: 510 calories, 28g fat, 54g prot., 6g carbs., 0g fiber, 160mg sodium.

Martin Booe is a freelance writer from Kentucky who lives in Los Angeles, Calif.

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Discuss this Article

Here are some of the current comments about this article. To read more or post your own comments, visit our message boards.
omg-who cooks in lard nowadays. try rice oil or avacado oil-both have the highest smoke points of any oils.
sportchick
5/23/07 2:54 PM
Yes, we thought about that, but wanted to stay true to Scott's recipe, and lard was surprisingly easy to find too. I think I would use peanut oil over avocado or rice oil though as both are expensive and hard to find. Really any vegetable oil would work OK, but peanut oil has a high smoke point and is easy to find and economical too. Thanks for your comments.
The Relish Editors
5/30/07 9:15 AM

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