During a trip to Atlanta, I decided that the peak chicken experience was at Watershed in Decatur, a restaurant that is owned in part by Emily Sayers of the Indigo Girls and where Scott Peacock is the chef.
Scott’s recipe came out of a collaboration with Edna Lewis, the venerable authority on Southern cooking, who died in February 2006 at the age of 89 but whose longevity debunks some of the presumed evils associated with Southern cuisine in general and fried chicken in particular. Scott brines his chicken in salt water, soaks it in buttermilk, and throws in a slice of country ham during frying for extra flavor. He dusts it in what he refers to as a “rumor of flour.” The result is even better than my grandma’s, and that’s saying something. Just don’t tell my mom I said so.
Southern Fried Chicken
Ingredients
6 cups water
1 (3-pound) chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1 quart buttermilk
1 pound lard
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup country ham pieces, or 1 thick slice country ham cut into 1/2-inch strips
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
2. Combine lard, butter and ham in a heavy skillet. Cook over low heat, skimming as needed, until butter stops foaming and ham is browned, about 30 minutes. Remove ham with a slotted spoon. Increase heat to medium-high and heat fat to 335F.
3. Combine flour, cornstarch, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper on a piece of wax paper.
4. Dredge chicken pieces in flour mixture; tap well to remove excess.
5. Working in batches, place chicken, skin side down, into heated fat. Do not crowd. Cook until chicken is golden brown and cooked, 10 to 12 minutes per side. Pierce with a fork; if juices run clear, chicken is done. Remove and drain thoroughly on a wire rack or crumpled paper towels. Serves 6.
Recipe adapted from Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock's The Gift of Southern Cooking (Knopf, 2003).
Related Stories
If you enjoyed reading this story, Dixie Chick, then you might enjoy these other stories.- Last Minute Chicken
- Spring Chicken
- Relish Life One Bite at a Time
- Best Thing is Sliced Bread
- Rising to the Chicken Challenge
Share This Story With Others:
Here are some of the current comments about this article. To read more or post your own comments, visit our message boards.
