Souped-Up Sauce

the american table

Souped-Up Sauce

Relish the American Table is a weekly column that appears in newspapers across the country.

Thirty-five years ago, before the fastest way to a meal was a cup of Ramen noodles, college students made Bolognese sauce. Of course, that’s not what they called it, but no matter. The pots of hamburger-grade ground beef, canned tomatoes and whatever else was on hand were quick and easy variations of sauces that Italian cooks have been serving over pasta for ages.

An authentic Bolognese (named for the Italian city of Bologna, and sometimes called a ragu, from the French word ragout, a hearty stew) is a savory conglomeration of chopped ham, beef, pork, chicken livers, vegetables and wine. To add richness and a sweeter taste, many versions also include milk or cream. Done the right way, Bolognese takes at least 3 1/2 hours to simmer; according to Italian culinary expert Marcella Hazan, Bolognese cooks say it can only be made in their kitchens.

As much as we would have liked to fly to Bologna to cook a pot of sauce, it was out of the question. And so, we decided to do the next best thing. Without leaving home, we made a deliciously meaty Bolognese in only 1 1/2 hours.

It has many of the traditional ingredients—ham, pork, vegetables, wine and milk—and is perfect for cheese ravioli or any pasta. We’re even thinking of using it the next time we make lasagna.

Our sauce is a souped-up version of what students once made on their hot plates, and it’s not as instant as Ramen noodles. But it still leaves us wondering why they traded their bowls of spaghetti Bolognese for Styrofoam cups of flavored noodles.


Pasta with Bolognese Sauce

Use a flavorful ham for the best results. Country ham, which is cured and smoked, is ideal here, but any flavorful ham or prosciutto works.

Ingredients
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup chopped carrot
1 pound ground pork
4 ounces minced country ham
1 cup dry white wine
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup whole milk
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
6 cups hot cooked fusilli or other long pasta
Instructions
1. Melt butter in a large skillet, add onion and carrot, and sauté until tender. Add pork and ham, and cook for 5 minutes. Add wine, and cook until absorbed. Add tomatoes, salt and pepper, and simmer, covered, for 1 hour. Add milk, garlic and parsley and cook 15 minutes longer. Serve over pasta. Serves 6.

"Entertaining," March 2006
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 545 calories, 22g fat, 26g prot., 51g carbs., 4g fiber, 702mg sodium.

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