Southern Comfort

by Damon Lee Fowler

There are few things in life that are perfect, but pimiento cheese may well be one of them. Sensible Southern cooks know the best pimiento cheese is also the simplest: the whole point is the balance between good, sharp cheese and pimientos. Some add a dash of garlic juice (or purée) or Worcestershire, some add green onion or use hot sauce instead of cayenne, but that’s as far as any sensible person will go. “Gourmet” additions such as olives, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted peppers and herbs aren’t encouraged: they only draw attention to themselves and upset the balance.

Spread it thickly; thin spreading doesn’t denote elegance—just stinginess. If you need elegance, trim off the crusts and cut the sandwiches into triangles. To warm up a cool day, brush the bread with butter and grill it.

Classic Pimiento Cheese

Mark Boughton Photography/Teresa Blackburn Food Styling

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If you’ve never had homemade pimiento cheese, you’re in for a treat. Serve with buttery crackers or stuffed in celery stalks for an easy appetizer.

Ingredients

2 cups finely shredded extra-sharp Cheddar
½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
(preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano)
1/3 cup mayonnaise, divided
1 small garlic clove, crushed
1 tablespoon grated shallot or yellow onion
1 (4-ounce) jar diced pimientos, drained
but liquid reserved
Ground cayenne pepper
English-style dry mustard

Instructions

1. Combine half the Cheddar and half the Parmesan cheese in a large bowl. Mix together lightly. Knead in 4 tablespoons of mayonnaise until mixture is creamy and very smooth.
2. Work in remaining cheese, garlic, shallot, pimientos, 1 tablespoon of reserved pimiento liquid, a dash of cayenne and a small pinch of dry mustard. Knead just enough to mix well: it should still have plenty of texture. Add remaining mayonnaise, if necessary—just enough to make it spreadable.
3. Let stand 30 minutes. Serve cool or at room temperature. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, "Relish Classic Dishes," June 2007.

Relish 2008 Fall Supplement

Nutritional Information

Per (1/2-cup) serving: 320 calories, 11g fat, 15g prot., 3g carbs., 0g fiber, 510mg sodium.

Damon Lee Fowler is a food writer and culinary historian. The author of New Southern Kitchen and New Southern Baking, he lives in Savannah, Ga.