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Maybe his infectious good will comes from living in wide-open spaces. He was born in Oklahoma’s panhandle, has ranched in Australia and now lives in the limestone hills of central Texas where his big personality tends the smallest things: organic herbs and edible flowers—275 varieties, to be exact. Varney owns the Fredericksburg Herb Farm, a retail business that sells herbs on site and via the web.
Walk through his manicured gardens and you’re surrounded by dozens of kinds of basil from Lime to Thai, Cinnamon to African Blue. As butterflies float by, you pass tufts of thyme and waterfalls of rosemary, not to mention a riot of nasturtiums and other edible flowers. There are more than 100 varieties of eye-popping roses, grown without pesticides so the petals can be folded into cakes, ice cream and a host of other desserts.
Varney moved here in 1985 with plans for a small herb farm, but his vision and personality have fueled the business beyond his dreams. This farm is not just a fresh herb stand along the road; it now boasts a gourmet restaurant, a day spa, a small B&B and an extensive web business, selling infused vinegars and oils, teas, and mustards, as well as lotions, soaps, room fresheners and about everything else you can make from herbs and edible flowers.
Varney’s quick to recognize the secret of his farming success. “I’m right here all the time, working the place,” he says.
With degrees in business and horticulture, he tends the gardens every day, still makes his unusual herb ice creams by hand, and loves to serve guacamole in nasturtium leaves—a small dollop in a peppery leaf, rolled closed like a cigar. Big perfection in small things.
Linguine with Cilantro Pesto
Ingredients
¾ cup packed fresh cilantro
½ cup packed fresh parsley
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
¼ cup chopped walnuts
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
12 ounces dried linguine, cooked
and drained
Serves 6.
Recipe by Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, "Relish a new American farmer," July 2007.
Roasted Chicken Salad with Basil
Ingredients
1¾ cups cooked green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces
1¾ cups cooked corn kernels (about 3 ears)
1 chopped red bell pepper
½ cup chopped fresh basil
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup red or white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
2. Toss chicken, beans, corn, bell pepper, basil and pine nuts in a large bowl.
3. Whisk garlic, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper in a bowl; pour over salad, tossing gently. Serves 8.
Recipe by Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, "Relish a New American Farmer," July 2007.
Thyme Angel Food Cake
Ingredients
½ cup confectioners’ sugar
10 egg whites, room temperature
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons stemmed thyme leaves
2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
2. Sift flour and confectioners’ sugar together.
3. Beat egg whites with a mixer at high speed until foamy. Add cream of tartar and salt; beat until soft peaks form. Beat in lemon juice, then beat in granulated sugar in 2-tablespoon increments, allowing each to become incorporated before adding the next. Beat in thyme and lemon zest.
4. Fold flour mixture into egg white mixture with a rubber spatula. Spoon batter into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan.
5. Bake 35 minutes or until cake is lightly browned and springy to the touch, about 35 minutes. Invert pan; cool completely. Loosen cake from sides of pan using a narrow metal spatula. Transfer cake to a serving plate. Serves 12.
Recipe by Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, "Relish a New American Farmer," July 2007.
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