Farmhouse Chowder

Before deciding that summer is not the right time for a pot of hot soup, forget for a moment the business of sauteing and simmering and read what Jasper White has to say about corn chowder.

White is the chef and owner of the Summer Shack, a popular restaurant in Cambridge, Mass., specializing in New England seafood. Not surprisingly, there is always fish chowder on the menu, but when fresh corn is in season, corn chowder is a special.  “It’s the king of farmhouse chowders,” writes White. “The flavor of corn combines so naturally and beautifully with other chowder ingredients.”

Although we think of chowders as soups, early chowders were more like puddings. They were thick and stewy concoctions of mostly fish and vegetables. Indeed, there is not even a hint of the word soup in the history of the word chowder. Chowder comes from the English jowter, or fishmonger and has been linked to the French chaudron, or large pot.

White’s corn chowder is a version of a Shaker recipe and could almost be called summer in a bowl. It has ample amounts of fresh corn and potatoes, so that with each spoonful, you get a mouthful of vegetables. For a tad more thickening, White adds a cornstarch slurry; for brighter color he stirs in a small amount of turmeric; and for interesting flavor he uses a little ground cumin. With sliced tomatoes and hunks of whole-grain bread, the chowder makes a perfect meal. Pay no attention to the thermometer!

Corn Chowder

Mark Boughton

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Ingredients

3 medium ears fresh corn
1 (4 ounce) piece unsliced bacon, rind discarded and bacon diced
2 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, diced
1/2 large red bell pepper, diced
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/8 teaspoon turmeric
1 pound all-purpose potatoes, peeled and diced
3 cups lower-sodium chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Coarsely ground black pepper
2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water
1 cup half and half
Minced fresh chives or thinly sliced green onions, for garnish

Instructions

1. Cut kernels off cobs and scrape off milky bits. You should have about 2 cups corn. In a large pot cook bacon until crisp. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat. Add butter, onion, bell pepper, thyme, cumin and turmeric; cook over medium heat until vegetables are tender. Stir occasionally. Add corn, potatoes, broth, salt and pepper. Cover and bring to a boil. Adjust heat and boil 10 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Stir in cornstarch mixture and cook until chowder is lightly thickened. Stir in cream. Garnish with chives or green onions. Makes 4 main-dish servings.
Adapted from 50 Chowders by Jasper White (Scribner, $30).

Nutritional Information

Per serving: 460 calories, 26g fat, 12g prot., 47g carbs., 5g fiber, 970mg sodium

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