He Says, She Says September 2007

Portobello Mushroom Marina Sauce

Wini says: This story is too fun for words. What a great idea—getting together to preserve the best veggie of summer (tomatoes!), while hanging out with friends. I’m not sure what urgently calls for a pairing most, the pasta sauce or the gathering with the gang?

I’ll stick with the pasta sauce for now and suggest the all-purpose go-to Italian red: Chianti. But this is pretty special, so I’d go up a notch: Instead of getting any old Chianti, go with a Chianti Classico (look specifically for the word “Classico” on the label). The wine is a step up in quality from those that are simply labeled “Chianti.” Try Ruffino Aziano ($13) or Ruffino Santedame ($18).

Chuck says: So, what I’m hearing is: Go for a Classico and avoid a fiasco! Couldn’t agree more. As you know, in Italy the big straw-wrapped bottle associated with Chianti is known as a fiasco. And all too often, the wine inside is nothing short of disastrous, to boot. Opting for a Chianti Classico greatly ups our odds of latching onto a truly worthy wine, instead of a woven wicker wash-out.

Just one thing: we probably ought to make sure everyone understands that “Ruffino” is the producer of the wines you’ve recommended, but the similar word, “Rufina,” also appears on lots of bottles of Chianti. “Rufina” refers to a sub-zone of the greater Chianti region, which, like the Classico sub-zone, is known for better-than-average Chianti wines.

Fiery Salsa

Wini says: Ouch! About nine out of 10 wines are going to kind of hurt with the spices in this fiery salsa. Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, will make those spices build and build, don’t you think? I’d go for something pleasantly mild here. Sometimes, wine geeks disparage Pinot Grigios for being overly mellow, but I say they’re perfect when you want wine to flatter the food, not steam-roll over it. Easy-sipping Turning Leaf Pinot Grigio brings fresh, fruity flavor at a good low price (around $7 or $8) for everyday enjoyment.

Chuck says: Ouch is right—this baby has enough firepower to knock the livin’ daylights out of a wine. Not that I’m saying the salsa can’t be delicious with wine, but with the wrong wine, both are gonna be in a world of trouble—just like you said about that Cab.

I don’t disagree with the idea of Pinot Grigio here and wholeheartedly endorse the notion of keeping it inexpensive and quaffable. The only thing I’d add is that if you don’t mind off-dry whites, a little sweetness might be an alternative way to cope with the heat. A pleasant, unassuming domestic Riesling would be a viable option for those who prefer this route.

Roasted Red Pepper Jam with a Kick

Wini says: Oh, another hottie! And with lime flavors, to boot. This suggestion is a bit “out there,” but how about a Malvasia Bianca? It’s a lesser-known Italian grape, but a winery in California has been doing great things with it: Wild Horse Malvasia Bianca brings luscious floral, citrus, and vaguely spicy notes that will mesh well with the flavors here. It’s also something I consider a “feminine” wine, so lay in a bottle or so for the Girls’ Night In canning party.

By the way—as a guy, do you disparage terms like “feminine wines”?

Chuck says: No, Wini, I adore girlie wines—that’s what I reach for, along with a box of tissues, when I sit down to watch chick-flicks every Friday night. . . . Come on!

But truthfully, I guess it all depends on what you’re implying when you use the term, “feminine wines.” So, what are you implying, anyway?!!! That some wines are for gals, some are for guys? Or is it something else?

In any case, I have to admit that the pairing sounds pretty compelling. Funny thing is, white Riojas from Spain—in addition to some of the white wines of Navarra—also sometimes include a splash of Malvasia, along with their predominant Viura. Although typically more understated than your pick, I think either of these northern Spanish wines could work nicely here, as well.

Wini says: Yeah, I knew I’d get in trouble with you with that “feminine” descriptor… but it just works when I think of all those floral notes in a wine like this.

Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic

Wini says: I’ve made this recipe (albeit, another version) for years, and I’ve always enjoyed a good Syrah with it. The wine meshed well the thyme and rosemary in my South-of-France-style version. But will the switched-in basil and tomatoes work with this match?

I believe it will. This is basically a braise—the chicken cooks slowly with the garlic and other flavorings, allowing the dish to become richer and bolder over time. Because the stars of this dish are the chicken, emboldened by the garlic, I’m not going to let the basil and tomatoes mess with my focus. Syrah it is—it’s always a good match for garlic-enhanced stews and braises.

Chuck says: That’s such a good analysis. Maybe too good—not only do you have me thinking Syrah, but your vivid description has me convinced that nothing less than one of the great French Syrahs from Hermitage or Crozes-Hermitage is going to do for this lip-smacking dish. Thanks a lot, Wini—this is gonna cost me a few extra fins next time I visit my local wine shop. (But it’ll be worth every penny.)

Hatched Eggs

Wini says: This looks to me like a breakfast/brunch dish, and in my view, any wine you drink in the morning has to sparkle. Champagne? Mais non—at least not the classic toasty-dry true French Champagnes—their austerity isn’t going to cut it here. I’m going for a fruitier-style of sparkler. Look for those from Alsace (Marquis de Perlade Crémant d’Alsace is generously fruity at a cheapskate’s price), the Loire Valley (Bouvet Signature Brut is also a good $15-or-under pick). If it’s a special occasion, reach for the youthful, fresh, and juicy Schramsberg Crémant, a luscious, lightly sweet sip that may be one of the best sparkling wines I’ve tasted in ages.

Chuck says: I’m a big fan of Crémant, too, and will happily go along when that’s what’s being poured. For this dish especially, the rustic edge and extra oomph of many Crémants is going to balance things out between the food and wine most beautifully.

Nonetheless, maybe we ought to broaden the field a little bit here, and mention a sparkling wine representing astonishing value these days, Spanish cava. In particular, quality throughout the range of cavas produced by Segura Viudas is pretty special. Pop open one of these—especially the Brut Reserva Heredad (the stunningly gorgeous bottle alone almost justifies the price)—in case the Crémant you’re after proves hard to find.

Grilled Apples with Parmesan Cheese and Honey

Wini says: What a gorgeous recipe. I’d be tempted to serve this as dessert, though I could also see it being a lip-smacking way to kick off an early-autumn cookout, too. Either way, I’d serve a Sauternes with this. This honeyed elixir from La Belle France comes in half bottles that can easily climb into the $50-plus range (not exactly a cookout pick); however, I’ve found one that’s around $25: Château Haut-Bergeron Sauternes. The golden tones—fig, apricot, honey, almonds—of this rich beauty would sing with that cheese-apple-honey combo.

But could you drink this dessert wine if you served the dish as a first course? Absolutely! When I was in Bordeaux last June, I was tickled to be served glasses of Sauternes as an apéritif. Served chilled in small glasses, it tastes as good at the beginning of a meal as it does at the end.

Chuck says: So true—and another reason it works so well is that it has enough tarty zip to keep you from feeling like you’re O.D.’ing on sugar. Not a thing cloying about it. Just soooooo satisfying.

Now, if you’re feeling adventurous, don’t stop with Sauternes and its almost-as-illustrious neighbor, Barsac—also seek out those hidden little treasures among lesser-known Southwestern French sweet wines. My favorite of all these “undiscovered” wines, Jurançon, is produced near my home in the Pyrenees foothills, and Monbazillac and Cotes de Bergerac Moelleux are situated closer to Bordeaux. Any are well worth tracking down—especially when you consider that prices often amount to only a fraction of what you’ll pay for top Sauternes.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Ginger-Lime Vinaigrette Marinade and Grilled Fresh Asparagus

Wini says: Wow—there’s a kitchen sink of flavors here, with the lime, ginger, garlic honey, soy sauce and sesame oil, not to mention the asparagus, which is characteristically a head-scratcher when it comes to pairing with wine.

When in doubt, I pretty much always reach for Riesling, one of the most versatile and food-friendly wines around. An elegant white with a he-man meat? You bet—think of how those smart Alsatians so often serve Riesling with their big meaty choucroute garni—the racy wine sometimes helps cut the richness of all those cured meats, and anything that goes with sauerkraut likely goes with lots of other things, too. And if you’re tailgating, Riesling will be nice and refreshing on a warmish autumn day.

Chuck says: Well, we’re both big-time Riesling fans, so there’s no way we’re headed for a brouhaha over this one. For wine pairing, I, too, see some caution flags waving around that ingredient list. But Riesling ought to get around them all with flying colors. Still, is there anything else that might work? Something crimson, perchance?

Oh yeah—there’s absolutely no reason why red wine lovers can’t have it their way here, as well. We just have to be smart about it, selecting a red without loads of tannin but with a kiss of fresh, tart, acidity. In other words, for all the reasons white Riesling can work so well here, we need to be sure we don’t go overboard by choosing a red that tips the scales too far in the other direction—big and bold is verboten, this time around.

What I’ve got in mind is California Pinot Noir, and if I had to pick a region, it’d likely be Carneros. Why? The fruit, baby. I see this style of Pinot, spotlighting delectable red fruit flavors, as tailor-made for the pork. Yes, there are some background flavors in the dish that give me pause, but at the end of the day, all I can think about is bites of juicy pork followed by smackin’ good sips of Pinot. Over-analyze this and you run the risk of ruining everything.

Chicken Milano

Wini says: Easy does it! This quick, any-night dish deserves a quick, any-night wine. Once again, I’m going for Pinot Grigio. The quintessential Italian grape will work nicely with the Italian angle of this recipe. But really, Pinot Grigio goes with so many things that if you have a glass tonight with this recipe, then, recork the bottle, it’ll likely go with anything you make tomorrow night.

Chuck says: Everything you say makes perfect sense, but something’s keeping me from buying in. I mean, instead of going with an any-night wine, I almost feel like this recipe offers an ideal opportunity to shake things up. It’s straightforward, satisfying, and will get along famously with loads of different wines—so really, aren’t we working with a big, fat safety net here? Let’s take a leap! Pour an exuberant Spanish Verdejo alongside this steady Italian classic. We’re talking zingy-ness in abundance, in a fresh and lively white that adores food. I know this is anything but a traditional match, but on a weary weekday night, who really gives a rip? Spend $11 or $12 bucks on a bottle of Valdelainos verdejo from the Rueda region, and don’t look back. Tuesday night will never be the same.

Chicken Curry

Wini says: Hmmmm….truly, what goes best with ramen noodles? Why the beverage of choice for college students—beer, of course. We could find a wine to go with this quickie, but I might reach for a Kingfisher beer from India, or a Singha beer from Thailand—choices I enjoy at neighborhood Indian and Thai restaurants, respectively. These are nicely refreshing beers that will handle the curry heat nicely.

Chuck says: Yup, I’m with you—as much as I love wine, I can’t remember EVER ordering a glass of wine in an Indian or Thai restaurant. I suppose if someone put a gun to my head, I might opt for a gewürz, but I truly doubt that’d be a satisfactory choice—either for the dish or the wine. Make that 2 Kingfishers, please.

Mexican Casserole

Wini says: With this hearty recipe, I think you’re going to want something with a little heft, but nothing as tannic as a big Cabernet Sauvignon. And because it’s a casual dish, we’ll definitely want to stick with a casual wine. How about a blend? With its tattoo-inspired label, Wild Bunch California Red Wine definitely appeals to those who don’t get too serious about wine—a perfect foil for none-too-serious casserole made out of ramen noodles. With its blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, and Barbera, it’s a soft, approachable wine that will go down easily with this bold dish.

Chuck says: Roger, on that—just gotta keep this muy friendly, and easy on the tannins. With that in mind, you can’t go wrong. A plump and plummy, value-oriented Washington State Syrah seems just about right to me.

All-Purpose Dry Rub

Wini says: You know, we so often talk about matching flavors (e.g.: “the spicy notes in this wine will mesh well with the spice in the recipe…”). And that’s a good way to go about it. However, with this one, rather than think about wines with flavors that echo what’s in the food, I’m inclined to think about wine flavors that complement what’s in this recipe. What goes great with spicy-sweet dry rub on a big piece of meat? A good barbecue sauce, of course.

No, I’m not suggesting we put barbecue sauce in our wineglasses, but rather, something nicely bold and jammy, like a powerful red Zinfandel. Inexpensive choices—good for an informal barbecue—include Cline Zinfandel, R.H. Phillips, and Dancing Bull Zinfandel.

Chuck says: We talked about bbq and zin earlier this summer, and I said then that maybe after I’d had my fill of both I’d be willing to rethink that combination. Well, it’s now September, and I’m still not ready to give it up.

After a day of fishing with some buddies recently, we fired up the grill and then popped open a bottle of Steele’s Catfish Vineyard Zinfandel. This comes from a fascinating vineyard made up of a lot of 100-year-old vines—and not all of them Zin. A few oddball vines show up here and there, creating a bizarre mix (still, predominantly Zin, of course) that absolutely works. And I promise, my favorable impressions of the wine have nothing whatsoever to do with the fact that when they were formed, I was still basking in the glow of having just caught and released a very large brown trout. Even the guys who didn’t catch fish that day enjoyed the Steele (no names, amigos, but you know who you are—ha!). I wouldn’t hesitate to add this one to the nice list you just mentioned.

Corn and Tomato Salad with Lemon Dressing

Wini says: Oh, man! When I serve this fresh and fabulous salad, it’s going to be the star of the meal—no need for a predictable hunk of protein in the center of the plate here! Rather, I’m going to serve it with a good bruschetta, perhaps topped with goat cheese and roasted red peppers for a little heartiness. All that’s needed to round out the meal, then is the right wine…

I’ve still got a few bottles of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc leftover from my August run on this zippy (think citrus), refreshing wine. I extolled the virtues of Kim Crawford and St. Clair’s takes on the grape in this month’s column. That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it!

Chuck says: I love the way you took that killer recipe and made it utterly unbeatable with your full meal idea! But you need to ’fess up about why the goat cheese fell into the mix. Wouldn’t have anything to do with having those magnificent bottles of Sauvignon Blanc lying around, now would it? A match made in heaven. But truly, the whole combo you’ve put together is a winner, any way you slice it.

Anything I’d do differently? No way. The only thing I’ll say is that if a person objects to the in-your-face nature of some NZ Sau. Blancs, they might think about trying a French wine made from the same variety, such as Sancerre, or even white Bordeaux, which often features Sauvignon Blanc as part of a blend. These wines would be nice with all of the foods mentioned here too, and they do cast the variety in an entirely different, subtle and impeccably elegant, light.

Beef and Pesto Pepper Salad

Wini says: Good, fresh salad ingredients with a good hearty steak—what a great transition recipe for not-quite-summer, not-quite-fall grilling.

How about a not-quite-Zinfandel, not-quite-Merlot wine? That is, a blended wine would be a shoo-in with this recipe. One of my favorites is St. Francis Winery Sonoma County Red. Simply labeled “Red,” this is a blend of Merlot, Zinfandel, Grenache, and Sangiovese. This wine has plenty of oomph to go with the meaty steak, but won’t overpower the finer workings of the salad.

Chuck says: OK, I’m going to say this and then duck for cover, because I have a pretty good idea what your reaction is going to be.

But, before I do, Wini, did I mention that I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE your wine pairings this month? And, gee, your picks in Relish have never been better! So, (gulp) . . . how ’bout a Bierzo with this dish?

OUCH!!! That hurt! (And so much for sucking up . . . )

But this is truly the only wine I want for this—supple, mouth-filling, beguilingly herbal, and with massive dark fruit flavors, it’s going to be awesome not only with the beef, but with everything else going on here, as well. Sure, it’s made from a long-forgotten grape—Mencía—in an obscure Spanish region, but what can I say? It has cast its spell, and I can only but answer its call. Try one called “Petalos” from the bodega, Descendientes de José Palacios.

See you next time, my friend!

Wini says: Adios, el Geek-o.