Last Thanksgiving, instead of sitting down to a table crowded end-to-end with turkey and side dishes, we decided to start with a first course. It’s not as if we were making culinary history. Ancient Greeks kicked off their festivities with bits of fish and cheese and Renaissance chefs did the same thing with thin rolls of grilled veal. All we had in mind was soup.
But it couldn’t be just any soup. Because of the last minute bedlam that usually hits the Thanksgiving kitchen, we needed a recipe that could be made ahead and served without fuss. Whatever we chose, it had to be more interesting than broth but nothing too filling. We wanted a starter that would introduce the meal, but let everyone know it was just to rev up their appetite. In other words, something light.
Chowders and cream soups were the first things that came to mind, and after bouncing ideas around, we settled on butternut squash tomato bisque. The starchy winter squash would give the bisque the texture of a chowder and puréeing it would give the “creaminess” of cream soup, but without cream.
The bisque that we ended up with was a snap to put together. The combination of bright orange squash and red tomatoes made it a gorgeous pumpkin color, and the simple tomato garnish dressed it up. Our Thanksgiving family had no trouble figuring out the ingredients: squash, onion, tomatoes and broth. They missed the maple syrup, which enhanced the sweetness of the vegetables, but that was OK. What mattered was that when they finished their last spoonfuls, they were ready for the rest of the holiday dinner.
Butternut Squash and Tomato Bisque
Ingredients
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes with juice
1 to 2 tablespoons maple syrup or honey
3 1/2 cups lower-sodium chicken or vegetable broth, divided
1/4 teaspoon salt
2. Heat butter and oil in a Dutch oven. Add onion; sauté 5 minutes.
3. Place tomatoes with juice in a food processor. Add maple syrup or honey; process until blended. Add butternut squash; process until smooth. Add squash mixture, chicken broth and salt to Dutch oven; stir well and heat through. Garnish with chopped tomato.
Serves 8.
Recipe by Crescent Dragonwagon, "Relish the Holidays," Nov. 2006.
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