email this pageThe Apalachicola Bay is a large estuary situated in Florida’s panhandle, about 80 miles southwest of Tallahassee. Fresh water from the Apalachicola River flows into the bay from the north. To the south, barrier islands hold back the waters of the Gulf of Mexico. In the space between the islands, though, salt water creeps into fresh, creating a brackish mix—the perfect breeding ground for oysters.
People have sought out Apalachicola Bay oysters for generations. Native Americans settled the area hundreds of years ago and relied heavily upon the bounty of the bay. Eventually, fishermen heard about the bay’s riches and flocked to the area to reap their share. They built small boats out of wood and fashioned 10-foot long tongs to reach into the water and scour the bay’s bottom for bivalves. The early 20th century brought dozens of processing plants to the area, and a booming industry was born. Barrels of oysters were iced and put on railroad cars bound for New York. Oystermen harvested until their boats could hold no more, and shuckers worked daylight to dark, processing the catch.
Today, Johnny and Janice Richards make their living the same way people did generations before them. Married in 1959, they’ve been working the bay together for almost 50 years. For them, the bay offers independence. But it also can be unpredictable. Devastating hurricanes, changing regulations and bay closings due to red tide (a profuse bloom of algae) interrupt their longstanding relationship with the Apalachicola Bay. v Something else threatens their way of life. Escalating real estate values are pushing many locals inland, and some processing houses can’t afford to keep their doors open. Life along Florida’s Forgotten Coast is changing.
But oysters still grow in that brackish water, and restaurants across the country still sell them by the dozen. Everyone is still hungry for those little grey gifts from the bay.
Oyster Dressing
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Ingredients
4 (5½-ounce) boxes fat-free Classic Caesar flavored croutons
1 cup chopped onion
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons butter, melted
¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 (10-ounce) package frozen spinach, thawed and drained
3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 (8-ounce) container freshly shucked oysters, chopped, with juice reserved
1 to 2 large bay leaves
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Coarsely ground black pepper
2. Combine croutons, onion, garlic and dill in a large bowl; toss. Add butter, parsley, eggs and spinach. Mix gently. Add broth, chopped oysters and reserved juice. Add bay leaves, lemon juice and pepper. Mix gently.
3. Transfer dressing to baking dish. Bake 35 to 45 minutes. Remove bay leaves before serving. Serves 8.
Recipe by Claudia Carauna, "The World is Their Oyster," Relish a Taste of America, November 2007.
Oyster Stew
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1 cup finely chopped celery
3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
2 cups whole milk
2 cups half-and-half
2 (8-ounce) containers freshly shucked oysters, undrained
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne peppe
2. Add milk and half-and-half; stir well. When mixture is almost boiling, add oysters and their liquid. Add Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper and cayenne pepper. Stir constantly until oysters curl at their edges. When oysters curl, the stew is done; turn off the heat and serve with oyster crackers. Serves 6.
"The World is Their Oyster," Relish a Taste of America,
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