Go Bananas

the american table

Go Bananas

Relish the American Table is a weekly column that appears in newspapers across the country.
Banana cream pie is a culinary work of art. A variation of an old-fashioned custard pie, it is a glorious combination of vanilla custard, sliced bananas and whipped cream lovingly layered in a graham cracker shell. It is no surprise that in 1951, banana cream pie was named the armed forces’ favorite dessert. Also not much of a surprise is that pastry chefs, forever in search of the penultimate dessert, have dressed up their banana cream pies with everything from dark chocolate curlicues to butterscotch drizzles.

It’s hard to pin down the origin of banana cream pie, but it might have come from the Midwest, where pies have always been popular. As far as we can tell, adding bananas to the pie happened around the end of the 19th century, when bananas went from exotic to commonplace. Until then, most Americans have never seen, never mind eaten, a banana.

The turning point in the banana business came with technological advances in transportation and refrigeration. Steamships and railroad cars brought the fruit to market faster, and refrigeration slowed the ripening process. The combination was a bonanza for the industry. Bananas were touted as healthy fruits in germproof wrappers; they were cheap and available year-round. Cooks were encouraged to try them in recipes, but most people are happiest eating sliced bananas on cold cereal. Bananas are the number one fruit eaten in the United States. At last count, every American eats about 80 bananas a year; we bet plenty find their way into pie. 


Banana Cream Pie

Use bananas that are firm but ripe. To decrease the fat in this pie, use a nonfat whipped topping in place of the whipped cream.

Ingredients
Graham cracker crust:
18 Graham cracker squares
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon butter, melted
1 egg white
Cooking spray

Filling:
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 egg yolks
2 1/4 cups whole milk, divided
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 medium bananas (1 pound total weight), peeled and sliced

Topping:
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract




Instructions
1. Preheat oven to 325F.
2. For the crust, place crackers in a food processor and process until fine crumbs. Add sugar, cinnamon and butter and process 10 to 15 seconds. Add egg white and pulse rapidly about 10 times, until crumbs are moist. Coat a 9-inch pie plate lightly with cooking spray. Press crumbs firmly onto sides and bottom of pan. Bake 15 minutes or until light brown and fragrant. Cool completely on a wire rack.
3. For the filling, whisk together granulated sugar, cornstarch and salt in a heavy medium saucepan. Add egg yolks and 1/2 cup milk; whisk until smooth. Heat remaining 1 3/4 cup milk in microwave until very hot, about 2 minutes. Whisk into cornstarch mixture. Place pan over medium heat and stir until thick and boiling. Cook, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Remove pan from heat and stir in butter and vanilla. Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally.
3. Spread about 1/2 cup cooled custard in crust. Arrange sliced bananas evenly over the custard; spoon remaining custard over top. Refrigerate 3 to 4 hours.
4. When ready to serve, whip cream, confectioners’ sugar and vanilla until thick. Spread evenly over custard. Serve cold. Store leftovers in the refrigerator. Serves 8.

Recipe by Greg Patent, "Relish the Season," March 2007.
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 420 calories, 23g fat, 6g prot., 50g carbs., 2g fiber, 220mg sodium.

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