A Good Glass of Wine January 2007

I know I’m tasting a good wine when I immediately start dreaming of the foods I’d like to enjoy with it. Open a zesty bottle of Chianti, and I say, “Where’s my pizza?” Pour me a brisk Riesling, and I’m craving a platter of thick sausages.

Yet few wines coax me to the table more quickly than reliable, everyday wines from France. My favorites meld fruity allure with soft, approachable earthiness in a way that allows them to cozy up to whatever happens to be on your plate.

Recently, I discovered a relatively new label, B&G Bistro Wine. The beret-capped fellows on the bottle hint at what’s inside: fun-loving, food-friendly wines that are right at home at easygoing corner bistros from Strasbourg to Cincinnati. After uncorking these amiable bottles, I went on the hunt for a few of their French sidekicks and rounded up some nicely priced, go-to bottles. You’ll find them perfect for a casual weeknight glass as you enjoy the warming foods of winter.

Whites

• Domaine de Nizas Le Mas Blanc (Pays d’Oc, France; $13): Made mostly of Sauvignon Blanc, this elegant wine has a zippiness that beautifully contrasts with sumptuous white-sauced pasta dishes.
• B&G Bistro Wine Chardonnay (Pays d’Oc, France; $9): A nicely round, none-too-imposing wine that sent me scurrying for a good herb-flecked roast chicken.
• Laforet Chardonnay (Burgundy, France; $12): Try this lively, fruity, crisp pick with pork loin, richer varieties of fish and cheesy pasta bakes.

Reds

• B&G Bistro Wine Pinot Noir (Pays d’Oc, France; $9): Ripe fruit and bright acidity make for a harmonious pick that will go with just about anything.
• Premius Pinot Noir (Pays de l’Aude, France; $10). Enjoy this full, rich and deep style of Pinot with robust pan-sauced meats.
• B&G Bistro Wine Cabernet Sauvignon (Pays d’Oc, France; $8.99): Reach for this lush, plummy wine when you’re serving your heartiest winter stews.

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