Going without the Grain

march 2008

Going without the Grain

With wheat allergies and allergies in general on the rise, more gluten-free versions of familiar foods are now available. Yummy gluten-free pastries, pizza and sausage can be found not only in the “special diet section” of the supermarket but also in many restaurants and bakeries.

“People with allergies often feel deprived if they can’t eat what is offered in restaurants and at parties,” says Mariah Justice, owner of Wild Wood Art Café in Austin, Texas. “We make gluten-free foods that are so good almost everyone likes them better than ordinary wheat-filled items. Many of our customers don’t even know we’re a gluten-free restaurant.”

Justice created a cupcake for people like herself who can’t tolerate gluten, a protein found in wheat, rye and barley. Her version uses rice flour and, as a bonus, nonhydrogenated safflower oil, which contains no trans fats. It’s also dairy-free.

At Soul Dog Restaurant and Bakery in Poughkeepsie, N.Y., owners Jenny and Adam Teague turned their frustration as parents of children with multiple allergies into inspiration for gluten-free treats. They offer favorites like gluten-free hot dogs (with 25 possible toppings), pizza, and macaroni and cheese. Tasty bakery items for people with food allergies—and everyone else—include chocolate chip cookies, brownies and coffeecakes. The Teagues bake bread with a chickpea-based flour and enjoy creating custom birthday cakes.

“No one cares that all our food is gluten-free. It’s so good customers can’t tell the difference,” says Adam Teague.

Gluten-free products—from soups to desserts—are available on the Internet and in specialty grocery stores, but Justice cautions consumers to read labels carefully. Gluten is an ingredient in many products, including Worcestershire and soy sauces.

Alternative food options—the main means of controlling lifelong food allergy conditions—are steadily increasing. And the healthful reinventions are good enough for everyone to enjoy.

What is Gluten?

Gluten is a mixture of proteins found in wheat, rye and barley flours. It’s the gluten that gives bread its elasticity and cakes their spring. For 3 million people in the United States, gluten causes problems. Their immune systems respond to gluten by damaging the fingerlike villi of the small intestine, where food is absorbed. When the villi are damaged, the body is unable to absorb nutrients into the bloodstream, which can lead to malnourishment, autoimmune diseases, osteoporosis, thyroid disease and cancer. If you’re avoiding gluten products, try these alternatives: corn, millet, buckwheat, rice, quinoa or amaranth. Bob’s Red Mill, whose products are widely available, makes gluten-free flours, such as the ones we’ve used here.


Gluten-Free Buttermilk Pancakes








These gluten-free pancakes are not fluffy, but rather like thick crepes. You can find tapioca flour at most supermarkets next to the flours.

Ingredients
¾ cup buttermilk
1 egg
1 tablespoon canola oil
½ cup tapioca flour
¼ cup cornmeal
1 teaspoon baking powder
1⁄8 teaspoon salt
Instructions
1. Whisk together buttermilk, egg and oil in a medium bowl until smooth. Sift together tapioca flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt in a small bowl; stir into buttermilk mixture just until ingredients are moistened (mixture will be slightly lumpy).
2. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, drop 1⁄4 cup batter per pancake into skillet and cook until light golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Serve with maple syrup and bananas or confectioners’ sugar; or spread with strawberry cream cheese and roll up. Serves 4.

Recipe reprinted with permission from Donna Klein’s The Gluten-Free Vegetarian Kitchen (Penguin, 2007).


"Going without the Grain," Relish the Healthy Table, March 2008
Nutritional Information
Per (2-pancake) serving: 150 calories, 5g fat, 55mg chol., 4g prot., 21g carbs., 1g fiber, 280mg sodium.

Soul Dog Gluten-Free Chocolate Chip Cookies







These are some of the best chocolate chip cookies we’ve ever had. No one will know (or care) they’re gluten-free.

Ingredients
Gluten-Free Baking Mix
Soul Dog substitutes this mix cup for cup for wheat flour, except in bread recipes. Look for xanthan gum next to the specialty flours.

21⁄3 cups chickpea flour
2⁄3 cup cornstarch
¼ cup sugar
3½ teaspoons xanthan gum
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cream of tartar

1. Combine all ingredients. Store in an airtight container.


1 cup canola oil
¾ cup sugar
¾ cup brown sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 1⁄3 cups Gluten-Free Baking Mix
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups chocolate chips
Instructions
1. Preheat oven to 350F. Grease a baking sheet.
2. Combine oil and sugar in a large bowl, and beat with a mixer on medium-high speed. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing until creamy. Add vanilla.
3. Reduce speed to low and gradually add baking mix, baking soda and salt. Stir in chocolate chips.
4. Drop by level tablespoons or small ice cream scoop 2 inches apart onto baking sheet. Flatten slightly.
5. Bake 10 to 12 minutes. Remove cookies from pan; cool on wire racks. Makes about 2 dozen.

Relish the Healthy Table," Going without the Grain," March 2008.
Nutritional Information
Per cookie: 250 calories, 15g fat, 20mg chol., 3g prot., 29g carbs., 2g fiber, 250mg sodium.

Beverly Burmeier is a food writer in Austin, Texas.

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Discuss this Article

Here are some of the current comments about this article. To read more or post your own comments, visit our message boards.
I loved this article! A co-worker of mine saw it in the newspaper and brought it to work for me to read. Are there restaurants in Southern California that serve Gluten free meals?

I have been Gluten intolerant for 10 years now and I must say the paragraph "What is Gluten?" is the BEST explanation I have ever heard, even better than my doctor's!.

I shop at a health food store in Southern Calif. where I live, so I can find several Gluten free items, but I must say I am in a rut and would love to find a good cookbook with Gluten free recipes.

Thanks again Relish!
Keep up the great work!

Maria Rose
Maria Anderson
3/11/08 4:53 PM
I enjoyed this article. I have suffered for many years, a few years ago I found many resources for gulten free products on Food411 - they have a special diet section - very helpful.........
http://www.food411.com
iheartfood
3/19/08 10:49 AM

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