He Says, She Says March 2008

Frittata with Chard and Whole-Wheat Spaghetti

Chuck says: So what’s new, pal? You know, looking at this recipe truly makes me yearn for spring. I love Swiss chard and almost always grow tons of it out in the garden. This looks like a tasty way to put that bounty to good use in something quick, hearty, and delicious.

I'd ordinarily be inclined to pour a relatively simple white wine with a dish this straightforward. But the thought that fresh chard will soon be springing up outside has me in more of a celebratory mood. And what better way to celebrate than with bubbly? I see a good quality, but not extravagant, dry sparkling wine not only as a way to make this weeknight meal weekend-worthy (including brunch!), but also as a truly nice accompaniment to the eggs, cheese, chard and more. Actually, a bottle of Roederer Estate Brut from California's Anderson valley seems about right for this, and you can't argue with the price — often under $20.

Wini Says: You know, I almost exclusively drink sparkling wine with eggs (it’s a brunch thing), so I’m with you on this one 100 percent. I also find that Chenin Blanc is a good egg-friendly wine. So why not make it a sparkling wine made with Chenin Blanc — like those from the Loire Valley? Bouvet Signature Brut is a great example, and a terrific value. If you’re not in the mood for bubbles, a straight Chenin Blanc will be just fine with this.

Chilequiles Verde

Chuck says: This recipe may be south-of-the-border, but I'm going WAY south-of-the-border for my pick—all the way to Mendoza, Argentina, for an easygoing, juicy Malbec. That's a stretch, I know, and there’s a risk that this red may overmatch the food, when a white would likely be more harmonious. (Perhaps you're leaning white on this, Wini, and will help us out with that?) Anyway, the fun-factor of this creative Mexican dish has me ready to throw caution to the wind and go with a fresh and fruity Malbec that is all about laid back, satisfying charm — a "good-time Carlos," if you will. The amigo I want by my side as I sit down to the zesty cheese, salsa and homey corn tortilla recipe here is the bargain-priced Altos las Hormigas.

Wini Says: I’m so into South American wines, Chas, that I’d be happy for an excuse to try them anytime! So I’ll give your Malbec a go! But you’re right in thinking that I also wouldn’t mind a little white with this one — or at least something a tad whiter, if not entirely white. I’m talking rosé, and I’ve found an excellent one across the border from Argentina in Chile. Made from the red Carmenère grape, pale salmon-colored Oops Rosé is fabulously bright yet surprisingly round. Hardly sweet at all, yet with none of the sharpness that dry rosés can bring, this pretty pink will refresh between bites of this bold dish. This wine retails for about $12 — I’ve spotted it at Costco and World Market.

P.S.: A silly name for a seriously good wine, “Oops” refers to the fact that for years, Chilean wine-growers mistook the Carmenère grapevines in their vineyards for Merlot. Oops! Who knew?

Mushroom and Black-Eyed Pea Ragout with Parmesan Polenta

Chuck says: Time for me to get my feet back on the ground with a more conventional choice. I mean, heck, the earthiness of all these mushrooms and black-eyed peas, countered by creamy, slightly tangy Parmesan Polenta leads me in only one direction — Pinot Noir. For me, it is the consummate mushroom wine, and I see it forming a darned good partnership with the Parmesan here, too. So let's pick a nice one while we're at it, shall we? I have in mind the Alma Rosa Pinot Noir from California's Santa Rita Hills. An explosion of mouthwateringly characterful Pinot fruit, this is one you'll remember, even if you're slightly put-off by seeing a screw cap closure on a $30-plus bottle of wine. Frankly, we've all got to get over it — this is the right way to seal many very good wines.

Wini Says: I’m all for the screwcap—especially with picnic season looming ahead. After all, who wants to remember to pack the corkscrew?

But I digress. Yes—Pinot Noir is the ticket here. And let me just say that last night, I had one of the best moderately priced New World Pinots I’ve ever tasted. This was Lucas and Lewellen Santa Barbara County 2006 Pinot Noir.

You know how American Pinots can sometimes be so fruit-forward they fall like a thud on the palate? On the other end of the spectrum, some French Pinots (from Burgundy) can sometimes be thin and tart. This wine strikes an amazing balance—fruity but not heavy, bright but not slight, and as utterly silky as a great Pinot should be. I can’t say enough about this pick — except that it tastes a lot more expensive than the $20 it costs.

Grilled Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Mint Pepper Jelly

Chuck says: I know you're aware of my fondness for pairing Bordeaux with lamb, but the grilling and long marinating involved here have me singing a slightly different tune. Not that I don't think the right Bordeaux couldn't be tasty with this, it's just that I have something specific in mind — namely, a red from the Rioja Baja sub-region of Rioja. Of the three Rioja districts — the other two are Rioja Alta and Alavesa — the Baja is often overlooked as less sophisticated, even down-market. But because Baja's consistently the warmest of the three regions, with an abundance of sun to aid the grapes' ripening, the wines often sport a tad more plummy depth. Partnered with smoky meat, however — maybe even with a little char — that richness is going to pay dividends.

To get a taste of what I'm talking about, look around for a bottle called "Propriedad," from the producer, Palacios Remondo. With a blend of 40 percent Garnacha (Grenache), 45 percent Tempranillo, and the remaining 15 percent split between Graciano and Mazuelo, this delectably rich and complex wine gets star treatment from a star winemaker, Alvaro Palacios. Estate-grown, 40-plus year-old vines, hand-harvesting, organic viticulture . . . The list of important flourishes goes on and on.

Wini says: That sounds like one amazing wine, Chuck. And this sounds like an awesome recipe. I recently went on a cruise to the Panama Canal and enjoyed some fabulous meals aboard the Coral Princess. While the ship’s galley sent out some very creative dishes, the chefs also offered some delightfully classic choices too. A case in point: Roast lamb and mint jelly, which let me rediscover how great that tried-and-true combo really is!

All this is a wind-up to say that I’m sticking with a very classic wine here, too: Cabernet Sauvignon. And because anytime you roast a leg of lamb is a special occasion, I’ll go over $20 for this one and recommend the plush yet firmly structured Frei Brothers Reserve Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($24). As a bonus, I think the eucalyptus notes in the wine will mesh nicely with the mint in the recipe.

Pho (Beef Noodle Soup)

Chuck says: This is intriguing! Not only the way the hot broth cooks the raw beef, but the seasoning. Scented with ginger, cinnamon, cloves and anise, the fragrance of this soup should be nothing short of revelatory. And that's not even counting the herbal zing that fresh cilantro and basil bring to the party. This soup has a lot going on, and it affords us some options when it comes to wine. In fact, since there's plenty of hearty beef, reds are among those options. Yet, since this is still a soup, not a steak (and indeed, a soup with subtlety, to boot), I think we want to tread lightly, avoiding muscularly tannic, Big Beef wines - dense Cabernet Sauvignons, for instance. Ideal for me would probably be a fairly full-bodied but soft-ish red. And, one with mild herbal notes wouldn't go amiss, either. So, I'd be willing to give good-natured Chinon from France's Loire Valley a try. We're talking 100 percent Cabernet Franc, but in a food-friendly incarnation that emphasizes fruitiness, while downplaying coarse tannin. Once again, I'm rolling the dice with something out of the mainstream, but I've got a great feeling about this!

Wini says: I’m with you once again—go with red, but downplay those tannins! Because Pho is the quintessential Vietnamese dish, I sneaked a peak at the wine list of the fabulous Slanted Door, a modern Vietnamese restaurant in San Francisco. Among their recommended reds for Vietnamese food are Cabernet Franc (as you wisely suggest), Pinot Noir and—one of my favorite reds—Cru Beaujolais.

Remember, Cru Beaujolais is not the same as Beajolais Nouveau, but it is made from the same juicy Gamay grape. Go for a Fleury (named after one of the villages); the wine offers plenty of fruit, a little spice, and some pleasing floral notes. The wine’s subtlety will mesh well with the complex, herbal bowl of pleasure that is Pho.