Dense yet creamy, this artisan gruyère deserves praise. Crafted from the raw milk of the Montbeliard cows of the Jura Massif, a series of parallel mountain ranges running along the French-Swiss frontier, Comté is made in a 1,000-year-old tradition. Each cow is provided two acres of lush grasses and meadow flowers for grazing. Milk is brought to the local cheese-making cooperative, the fruitière, daily for immediate production. And wheels of Comté are carefully aged—for four months minimum, but many up to two years. Comté, which means “county” in French, has to be made in a certain region to be called Comté. Each cheese is made according to the traditions and guidelines of the region. Fortunately for Françoise—and us—Comté is now available in markets across the United States, even Costco.
Françoise uses Comté cheese in gougères (petite cheese puffs), soufflés and onion tarts. “There are many good recipes that use only kitchen staples,” she adds.
I’d never considered making a soufflé, but Françoise gave me inspiration—and her recipe. “It is simple. My teenage daughter makes it,” she says.
This French woman knows. Easy to prepare, my soufflé was showy and worth the wait. I spooned up a cloud, and the creamy, nutlike goodness of Comté dissolved on my tongue. For the recipe, go to relishmag.com/souffle
Comté Onion Tart
Ingredients
1 (9-inch) unbaked pastry crust
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 medium onions, sliced thinly
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
3 eggs
1¼ cups half-and-half
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1½ cups (6 ounces) shredded Comté cheese
2. Rub mustard over pastry crust. Refrigerate 30 minutes. Prick crust with a fork. Line with wax paper or aluminum foil, add beans or pie weights, and bake 12 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.
3. Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add onions and thyme; cook, stirring occasionally, until onions soften and caramelize, about 25 minutes. Remove from heat and cool.
4. Combine eggs, half-and-half, salt and pepper; whisk until well blended. Sprinkle cheese over bottom of crust. Pour in egg mixture. Spoon onions over egg mixture.
5. Bake 25 minutes, or until custard is set and top is golden brown. Serves 6.
Recipe by Nancy Vienneau, "Can You Say Conté?" November 2008.
Gougeres
1 cup water
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch cayenne
Pinch nutmeg
1¼ cups all-purpose flour
5 eggs, divided
2 cups (8 ounces) shredded Comté cheese
2. Bring water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add butter, salt, cayenne and nutmeg. When butter melts, lower heat and add flour. Stir well, then beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until flour is well incorporated and forms a ball-like mass, about 3 minutes.
3. Remove from heat and cool slightly. Make a well in the center of dough. Break 1 egg into the well and beat in thoroughly. When well mixed, add second egg. Beat well. Repeat with third and fourth egg, beating until dough is smooth and shiny. Beat in cheese. (Dough will be soft.)
4. Using 2 spoons, drop dough onto baking sheet in tablespoon amounts.
5. Beat 1 egg with 1⁄2 teaspoon water in a bowl and lightly brush on each gougère.
6. Bake 20 minutes, until puffs are golden brown and crusty to the touch. Turn off heat and allow to “rest” in oven 5 minutes. Makes 36.
Recipe by Nancy Vienneau, "Can You San Comté?" November 2008.
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