After the Fall

february 2009

After the Fall

They say a soufflé waits for no one. Indeed, most fall within moments of being pulled out of the oven. But that doesn’t mean you have to rush. Because truth is, soufflés taste just as good, if not better, once they’re deflated. They’re denser and richer, yet still light, making for a great finale to a rich meal. And what could be more impressive on Valentine’s Day than a soufflé for your sweetie? Here are a few tips:
•     Let eggs stand at room temperature for an hour or two. They’ll beat up to a higher volume.
•     Don’t fret about not having a proper soufflé dish. We made ours in a variety of ramekins and baking dishes—even microwave-proof coffee cups. The important thing is to fill the dish three-quarters full.
•     Sprinkle insides of dish with granulated sugar; it provides a nice crunch to contrast with the creamy soufflés.
•     Make sure the bowl is dry for beating the egg whites.
•     Don’t worry if there are streaks of white in the soufflé mixture. Overfolding will deflate the soufflé. 


Blackberry Soufflé



You can use whatever size ramekins you like.

Ingredients
Butter to coat baking dishes
1 1/4 cups sugar, divided
24 ounces fresh blackberries or 2 (10-ounce) packages frozen blackberries
3/4 cup butter (11/2 sticks)
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
5 egg yolks
2 tablespoons Chambord or cranberry juice
5 egg whites


Instructions
1. Preheat oven to 400F. Thoroughly butter 6 (8-ounce) ramekins or a 2-quart soufflé dish and sprinkle with 1⁄4 cup sugar.
2. Place berries in food processor or blender. Pulse until puréed. Place in a sieve and press gently to extract juice. Add enough water to yield 2 cups. Combine juice and 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove from heat.
3. Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and whisk well. Gradually pour hot juice mixture into flour mixture and whisk vigorously. Cook 1 minute. Remove from heat and whisk in yolks. Whisk in Chambord.
4. Beat egg whites in a clean, dry bowl with a mixer until frothy. Gradually add remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar, beating until soft peaks form. Stir 1 cup egg white mixture into blackberry mixture. Fold remaining egg white mixture into blackberry mixture.
5. Spoon into ramekins or soufflé dish. Bake 20 to 25 minutes (ramekins) or 30 to 40 minutes (soufflé dish), until soufflé rises. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

Recipe by Tracy Ceurvels, "After the Fall," Feb. 2009.
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 430 calories, 27g fat, 235mg chol., 7g prot., 45g carbs., 0g fiber, 220mg sodium.

Chocolate Espresso Souffle

If you want your soufflé to rise above the dish, you can make this in a 4-cup soufflé dish. Make a collar by wrapping a strip of buttered parchment paper around the outside of the dish and securing it with a string. Serve this soufflé with vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt.

Ingredients
Butter to coat baking dish
1/2 cup sugar, divided
3 tablespoons espresso or very strong brewed coffee
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
6 egg whites
4 egg yolks

Instructions
1. Preheat oven to 400F. Thoroughly butter a 2-quart soufflé dish or 6 (8-ounce) ramekins and sprinkle with 1⁄4 cup sugar.
2. Combine espresso and chocolate in a glass bowl. Microwave about 1 minute; stir until chocolate melts.
3. Whisk egg yolks into chocolate mixture.
4. Beat egg whites in a clean, dry bowl with a mixer until frothy. Gradually add remaining 1⁄4 cup sugar, beating until soft peaks form.
5. Stir about 1 cup egg white mixture into chocolate mixture. Fold remaining egg white mixture into chocolate mixture.
6. Spoon into the prepared dish. Place on a baking sheet and bake 30 to 40 minutes (soufflé dish) or 20 to 25 minutes (ramekins), until soufflé rises. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

Recipe by Tracy Ceurvels, "After the Fall," Feb. 2009.
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 210 calories, 13g fat, 140mg chol., 7g prot., 24g carbs., 2g fiber, 65mg sodium.

Recipes by Tracy Ceurvels, a food writer in New York City.

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