Basque in the Flavor

september 2009

Basque in the Flavor

Home to one of Europe's oldest, most mysterious peoples, the Basque country spans across the southwestern corner of France and a broad portion of northern Spain. For years, many Basques immigrated to the New World, usually claiming the lonely, nomadic existence of sheepherders, tending massive flocks across the frigid mountains and windswept plains of the American West. Today, throughout the West, a smattering of restaurants keeps frontier Basque food culture alive—primarily, in northern Nevada, southern Idaho, and California's Central Valley.

Establishments such as The Star Hotel in Elko, Nev., and the Martin Hotel in Winnemucca, Nev., continue to serve classic Basque fare after a century or more of operation.

Basque food in America remains hearty and traditional, a testament to the difficult times new immigrants faced. Even now, Basque-American restaurants typically seat diners at long tables, often with people they don't know, while heaping portions are served family-style, course after satisfying course. Whether it's Boise or Bilbao, one thing's for certain: When Basque food is served, generosity at the table knows no bounds.

Recipes by Tara McElhose-Eiguren of the Basque Market in Boise, Idaho, and Charles Smothermon.


Basque Chicken

Ingredients
2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 to 4 pounds chicken breasts, with bone and skin
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon Spanish smoked paprika
3 to 4 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 (12-ounce) jar roasted red peppers, sliced or 2 roasted red peppers
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
Instructions
1. Preheat oven to 425F.
2. Spread onions and garlic evenly in the bottom of a large shallow roasting pan. Cut each chicken breast in half. Sprinkle chicken pieces on both sides with salt and pepper. Place chicken, skin side up, in pan. Drizzle with olive oil; sprinkle with paprika. Bake 20 minutes.
3. Add tomatoes, red peppers and broth. Continue baking 35 to 40 minutes, basting chicken occasionally, until chicken juices run clear. Serves 8.

Recipe by Tara McElhose-Eiguren and Charles Smothermon, "Basque in the Flavor," Sept. 2009.

Gateau Basque

Filled with oozing, creamy custard, this “cake” may remind you more of a very thick and decadent tart, with buttery crunchiness around the edges. It is sometimes filled with dark cherry preserves. To keep the cake from breaking while being unmolded, bake it in an 8- or 9-inch springform pan. Serve with a berry sauce if desired. It’s best served the day it’s made.

Ingredients
Dough:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup ground almonds
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) butter, softened
1 cup sugar
3 egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Custard filling:
3/4 cup milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
3 egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Instructions
1. To prepare dough, combine flour, almonds, baking powder and salt.
2. Combine butter and sugar; beat with a mixer at medium speed until creamy. Add egg yolks and vanilla; mix until smooth. While mixing, slowly add flour mixture. Beat until thoroughly combined and mixture clings together when pressed against the side of bowl. Divide into 2 portions, with one portion slightly larger than the other. Flatten each into a disk; wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
3. To prepare custard filling, heat milk and cream in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk together egg yolks, sugar and cornstarch. When milk mixture is hot, slowly drizzle it into yolk mixture while vigorously whisking. Return mixture to pan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until custard becomes very thick. (If lumps form, whisk until smooth.) Stir in vanilla. Transfer custard to a medium bowl. Place plastic wrap directly on top of custard. Refrigerate 30 minutes.
4. Preheat oven to 400F. Butter bottom and sides of an 8- or 9-inch springform pan.
5. To assemble, roll larger portion of dough into a 101/2-inch round (dough will be thick).




Place in bottom of pan, pressing excess dough up the inside edge of pan. Add filling, spreading evenly. Roll remaining dough into a 9-inch round. Place on top of dough and filling in pan; press edges of dough to seal and form a rim. Place on baking sheet. Bake 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 350F and continue baking 15 minutes, or until cake is golden brown. Cool on a wire rack at least 45 minutes before serving. Slice using a serrated knife. Refrigerate remaining cake after serving. Serves 10.

Recipe by Tara McElhose-Eiguren and Charles Smothermon, "Basque in the Flavor," Sept. 2009.

Nutritional Information
Per serving: 380 calories, 23g fat, 180mg chol., 6g prot., 41g carbs., 1g fiber, 310mg sodium.

Story by Charles Smothermon, a food writer in Laurin, Mont., who writes our "Ask the Wine Geek" column.

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