The Big Cheese

classic flavors

The Big Cheese

Opera, shoes, cars-the Italian style is unsurpassable. But Italy's biggest claim to fame may be the venerable Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Although stateside, "Parmesan" is relegated to everything from potato chips to fast food-in Italy, it is a highly prized food that is a vital part of the culture and the Italian livelihood. Parmesan cheese, as it's called when produced domestically, was born from Parmigiano-Reggiano. Like Champagne (which must be produced in the Champagne region of France to be called such), cheese labeled Parmigiano-Reggiano must be made in the Italian provinces of Parma, Reggio, Emilia, Modena, Mantua and parts of Bologna under very specific rules-only from morning and evening milk from cows fed special grasses. Once you have tasted true Parmigiano-Reggiano, you'll be hooked. To know if you have the real thing, look for the pin dot label on the rind that says Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Rosa di Parma (Filled Beef Tenderloin)

We added spinach to this traditional dish, which is served in Italy for special occasions. Served with its pan juices, it pairs perfectly with potatoes. Proscuitto (Italian for “ham”) is a seasoned salt-cured ham served very thinly sliced. Although it has a distinct flavor, you can use any thinly sliced ham in its place.

Ingredients
1 (2 1/2-pound) beef tenderloin
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
Freshly ground black pepper
1 (3-ounce) package sliced proscuitto
6 ounces grated Parmigiana-Reggiano cheese
2 cups baby spinach leaves (about 4 ounces)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon dried sage
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon butter
½ cup brandy
Rosemary sprigs
½ cup beef broth

Instructions
1. Butterfly beef with a sharp, thin bladed knife, by cutting lengthwise down center of tenderloin; open like a book. Cover with parchment and pound until beef is about 1/4-inch thick.
2. Stir together olive oil and garlic. Brush beef with half of garlic oil. Sprinkle with pepper.
3. Arrange prosciutto over entire surface of beef. Top with Parmigiano-Reggiano and spinach leaves. Carefully roll meat lengthwise into a long slender roll. Using kitchen twine, tie to secure.
4. Mix together salt, sage and chopped rosemary and rub into surface of meat. Combine remaining garlic oil and butter in a Dutch oven or deep skillet; place over medium heat. Add beef, turning to brown all sides.
5. Add brandy and sprigs of rosemary to pan and allow brandy to reduce. Pour in beef broth. Continue to cook, turning and basting with pan juices about 30 minutes for rare (140F) or longer for desired doneness. Let stand 10 minutes. Remove twine and cut into slices. Serves 8.


"Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
Nutritional Information
Per serving: 373 calories, 20g fat, 38g prot., 4g carbs., 1g fiber, 849mg sodium.

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