email this pageThe first of the season’s porcini were in, and already, wide, shallow baskets and trays of sliced mushrooms were drying in the sun of tiny forecourts and walled yards.
This was no day to be indoors, but we had not come to the village to bask in the glories of the Italian countryside. We were there to learn about the rich cuisine of Parma from a master cook, Rosa Musi, known to friends and family alike as Mama Rosa.
We were an hour late, but that didn’t seem to matter: here, domani mattina (tomorrow morning) a common workman’s promise, is meaningless. Mama Rosa and her two handsome daughters, Lucia and Simona, greeted us with the open affection of old friends.
With unhurried grace, Mama Rosa, helped by Lucia, got down to business. She spoke no English, yet we had no trouble understanding her rapid-fire Italian as she taught us to make one the signature dishes of her region—stuffed homemade egg pasta.
Parma is the gastronomical center of Italy, and its cuisine is characterized by the liberal use of three regional specialties: homemade pasta, dairy products (especially Parmigiano cheese), and a host of rich, cured pork products like prosciutto.
After showing us three classic pasta fillings, rich with Parmigiano, ricotta, butter and cured pork, she deftly broke eight eggs into a great mound of flour and worked them together, splashing in water until she was satisfied with its consistency.
When it was time to knead, she showed us what to do and let us have at it. While I make respectable pasta and have even taught it in classes, my kneading technique on the huge, unwieldy lump fell short of Mama Rosa’s standards: after giving Relish editor Jill Melton top marks, she pointed at me and muttered, “ma . . . LUI . . .” (but HIM).
Ah, well. I redeemed myself by keeping pace with her while stamping out anolini and by turning out crisp, perfect Parmigiano cheese baskets. It also didn’t hurt when Matteo, her nine-month-old grandson, decided I was the greatest thing since Parmigiano.
The way to a grandma’s heart knows no language barriers.
Fresh Egg Pasta
Homemade egg pasta is not made with the same flour (durum semolina) as factory macaroni, but actually from the same kind of flour that we use for pastry and biscuits; that is, soft wheat flour (such as White Lily). Don’t use semolina, even if it’s labeled “pasta flour.” All-purpose flour, which is a blend of hard and soft wheat, is an acceptable alternative.
Ingredients
Ingredients
18 ounces (about 3 ¾ cups) soft wheat flour (such as White Lily) or all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, at room temperature
Water, as needed
Instructions
4 large eggs, at room temperature
Water, as needed
1. Mound flour on a smooth work surface (wood is ideal, plastic laminate will do). Make well in center. Break eggs into bowl, lightly beat to mix, and pour into center of flour. Gradually work flour into eggs until dough is formed, adding sprinkles of water as needed for a smooth but fairly stiff dough.
2. Knead dough, working vigorously, until smooth and even, about 8 minutes. Cover with damp towel and let sit 15 to 30 minutes.
3. Have fillings ready for stuffed pasta. Cut small sections of dough, lightly flour, and roll out using pasta rolling machine or long, narrow pasta rolling pin (available at kitchenware stores). Keep remaining dough covered as each piece is rolled out. Roll very thin for stuffed pasta, a little thicker for noodles. Pasta is ready to be used.
4. To cut into noodles, use cutting roller of machine or lightly flour sheet of dough, roll like jelly roll, and cut crosswise. Spread on lightly floured towels until dry enough to gather and coil into nest shapes without sticking together. May be cooked immediately or dried (about 24 hours) for prolonged storage. To fill pasta, refer to individual recipes. Makes enough for 8 servings of stuffed pasta, 4 to 6 servings if cut into noodles
Saucing Notes: Olive trees do not grow in the fertile valleys around Parma, and until recently, olive oil was all but unheard of in the region’s cooking. Pasta is most often sauced generously but simply with a rich butter that is almost as celebrated as the region’s signature cheese. Liberal does not, however, mean careless. One of the things that impressed me about Mama Rosa’s cooking was that, despite its exuberant flavors, it was a study in exquisite balance and restraint.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
2. Knead dough, working vigorously, until smooth and even, about 8 minutes. Cover with damp towel and let sit 15 to 30 minutes.
3. Have fillings ready for stuffed pasta. Cut small sections of dough, lightly flour, and roll out using pasta rolling machine or long, narrow pasta rolling pin (available at kitchenware stores). Keep remaining dough covered as each piece is rolled out. Roll very thin for stuffed pasta, a little thicker for noodles. Pasta is ready to be used.
4. To cut into noodles, use cutting roller of machine or lightly flour sheet of dough, roll like jelly roll, and cut crosswise. Spread on lightly floured towels until dry enough to gather and coil into nest shapes without sticking together. May be cooked immediately or dried (about 24 hours) for prolonged storage. To fill pasta, refer to individual recipes. Makes enough for 8 servings of stuffed pasta, 4 to 6 servings if cut into noodles
Saucing Notes: Olive trees do not grow in the fertile valleys around Parma, and until recently, olive oil was all but unheard of in the region’s cooking. Pasta is most often sauced generously but simply with a rich butter that is almost as celebrated as the region’s signature cheese. Liberal does not, however, mean careless. One of the things that impressed me about Mama Rosa’s cooking was that, despite its exuberant flavors, it was a study in exquisite balance and restraint.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
Anolini di Parma in Brodo (Meat Stuffed Dumplings)
These little meat stuffed dumplings are the pasta for celebrations, especially Christmas.
Ingredients
Ingredients
12 ounces cooked beef, veal and pork from Stracotto (recipe follows)
4 ounces mortadella sausage (available at specialty grocers and some delis)
10 ounces (2 cups) fresh breadcrumbs
4 ounces freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving
Freshly grated nutmeg
1 large egg
Broth from Stracotto (recipe follows), as needed
10 cups well-seasoned broth, preferably homemade from a capon
Instructions
4 ounces mortadella sausage (available at specialty grocers and some delis)
10 ounces (2 cups) fresh breadcrumbs
4 ounces freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving
Freshly grated nutmeg
1 large egg
Broth from Stracotto (recipe follows), as needed
10 cups well-seasoned broth, preferably homemade from a capon
1. Finely chop meat and sausage until almost pasty. Mix in crumbs and cheese. Season to taste with freshly grated nutmeg, mix in egg, and moisten as needed with broth to make soft but firm mixture. Set aside.
2. Line trays or baking sheets with linen kitchen towels. Roll out pasta and cut into strips about 3 inches wide. To one side, dot with half-teaspoons of filling at 1-inch intervals, fold pasta over to cover filling, press into place, pressing carefully around filling to remove air bubbles. Cut with anolini stamp by pressing cup down over mound, then flip dumpling out by tapping firmly on counter. Or, cut with sharp paring knife around mounds as close as possible without breaking edge seal. Transfer to towel-lined trays. May be made up to 12 hours ahead. Cover with cloth and refrigerate if made ahead.
3. Bring broth to boil over medium-high heat. Add anolini and cook until tender, about 3 minutes, if fresh, as much as 10 if dried.
4. Remove anolini with slotted spoon and divide among heated serving plates. Ladle broth over and serve at once, passing freshly grated Parmigiano separately. Serves 8.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
2. Line trays or baking sheets with linen kitchen towels. Roll out pasta and cut into strips about 3 inches wide. To one side, dot with half-teaspoons of filling at 1-inch intervals, fold pasta over to cover filling, press into place, pressing carefully around filling to remove air bubbles. Cut with anolini stamp by pressing cup down over mound, then flip dumpling out by tapping firmly on counter. Or, cut with sharp paring knife around mounds as close as possible without breaking edge seal. Transfer to towel-lined trays. May be made up to 12 hours ahead. Cover with cloth and refrigerate if made ahead.
3. Bring broth to boil over medium-high heat. Add anolini and cook until tender, about 3 minutes, if fresh, as much as 10 if dried.
4. Remove anolini with slotted spoon and divide among heated serving plates. Ladle broth over and serve at once, passing freshly grated Parmigiano separately. Serves 8.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
Stracotto (Pot Roast)
This is the way to cook meat for anolini. Many traditional cooks use only one meat, others use a mixture, as Mama Rosa does, and still others don’t use the meat at all, but only its broth, flavoring a bread crumb and cheese filling. Naturally, this sumptuous roast can also be served as a main course on its own. Probably the original anolini were filled with leftovers, which is what I’d recommend doing with this recipe
Ingredients
Ingredients
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, chopped fine
1 medium carrot, chopped fine
2 leafy ribs celery, chopped fine
1 pound boneless beef chuck, rump or shoulder roast
1 pound boneless veal chuck, rump or shoulder roast
1 pound boneless pork loin roast
Red wine or water
Salt and whole black pepper in a peppermill
Red wine or water
Instructions
1 medium onion, chopped fine
1 medium carrot, chopped fine
2 leafy ribs celery, chopped fine
1 pound boneless beef chuck, rump or shoulder roast
1 pound boneless veal chuck, rump or shoulder roast
1 pound boneless pork loin roast
Red wine or water
Salt and whole black pepper in a peppermill
Red wine or water
1. Melt butter in flameproof casserole over low heat. Add onion, carrot, celery and stir until coated. Add meat and cover loosely. Bring slowly to simmer and cook, turning meat occasionally, until juices are thick and meat is brown but not scorched, about 2 hours.
2. Season liberally with salt and pepper and add red wine or water to barely cover meat. Bring to simmer, loosely cover, and simmer until meat is fork tender, about 2-3 hours longer, adding wine or water as needed to keep meat covered.
3. To serve, remove meat, raise heat, and if serving as a main course, cook juices to a glaze. If broth is to be used in anolini, do not reduce it. Serves 4 to 8.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
2. Season liberally with salt and pepper and add red wine or water to barely cover meat. Bring to simmer, loosely cover, and simmer until meat is fork tender, about 2-3 hours longer, adding wine or water as needed to keep meat covered.
3. To serve, remove meat, raise heat, and if serving as a main course, cook juices to a glaze. If broth is to be used in anolini, do not reduce it. Serves 4 to 8.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
Tortelli d’Erbette
These delicate dumplings, a specialty of Parma, are sauced only with a little butter and cheese. They don’t need more than that: save the cream for something else.
Ingredients
Ingredients
1½ pounds Swiss chard or spinach
Salt
1 (16-ounce) container whole milk ricotta
3 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided
Freshly grated nutmeg (optional)
1 large egg
1 recipe Fresh Egg Pasta (see above)
Salt
8 to 10 tablespoons unsalted butter
Instructions
Salt
1 (16-ounce) container whole milk ricotta
3 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided
Freshly grated nutmeg (optional)
1 large egg
1 recipe Fresh Egg Pasta (see above)
Salt
8 to 10 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Wash chard thoroughly, remove stems (reserve for another use) and cut in strips. Place in wide, shallow pan. There should still be water clinging to leaves. Lightly sprinkle with salt, cover, and cook over medium heat until wilted, adding water if needed to prevent it from drying out. Drain in colander, cool, squeeze dry, and chop fine.
2. Mix chard, ricotta, 2 cups Parmigiano, and nutmeg to taste. Add egg and mix well. Line trays or baking sheets with linen kitchen towels.
3. Roll out pasta only as needed while filling, as directed in Fresh Egg Pasta recipe. Cut into long sheets about 5 inches wide. Drop teaspoon-sized mounds of filling onto sheets about 1 inch from edge and 1 ½ inches apart. Fold pasta over, press together, pressing well around filling to remove air bubbles. Using zigzag pastry cutter or knife, cut away excess pasta, making rectangular shapes with filling at center. Pasta can be filled up to 12 hours ahead. Cover with cloth and refrigerate if not cooking right away.
4. Bring 6 quarts water to rolling boil over high heat. Add tortelli, return to boil, and cook until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes if very fresh, 8 to 10 if almost dried. Meanwhile, melt butter in medium pan, remove from heat, and keep warm.
5. Remove enough pasta with slotted spoon to cover bottom of warm serving platter in single layer. Spread on platter, drizzle with butter, sprinkle with half the remaining cheese. Repeat with remaining pasta, butter, and cheese until pasta is completely sauced. Serve at once. Serves 8 to 10.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
2. Mix chard, ricotta, 2 cups Parmigiano, and nutmeg to taste. Add egg and mix well. Line trays or baking sheets with linen kitchen towels.
3. Roll out pasta only as needed while filling, as directed in Fresh Egg Pasta recipe. Cut into long sheets about 5 inches wide. Drop teaspoon-sized mounds of filling onto sheets about 1 inch from edge and 1 ½ inches apart. Fold pasta over, press together, pressing well around filling to remove air bubbles. Using zigzag pastry cutter or knife, cut away excess pasta, making rectangular shapes with filling at center. Pasta can be filled up to 12 hours ahead. Cover with cloth and refrigerate if not cooking right away.
4. Bring 6 quarts water to rolling boil over high heat. Add tortelli, return to boil, and cook until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes if very fresh, 8 to 10 if almost dried. Meanwhile, melt butter in medium pan, remove from heat, and keep warm.
5. Remove enough pasta with slotted spoon to cover bottom of warm serving platter in single layer. Spread on platter, drizzle with butter, sprinkle with half the remaining cheese. Repeat with remaining pasta, butter, and cheese until pasta is completely sauced. Serve at once. Serves 8 to 10.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
Tortelli di Zucca
Elsewhere in Emiglia Romagna, this filling is used in cappellacci, an oversized tortellini shape, and the saucing butter is lightly scented with chopped fresh sage. Mama Rosa stuffed it into tortelli and did not use sage. Her squash was butternut, but it was denser and more deeply colored and flavored than our butternuts. Kabocha or sweet potatoes actually come closer to the flavor and color.
Ingredients
Ingredients
2 ¼ pounds butternut or Kabocha squash or sweet potatoes
3 cups freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Freshly grated nutmeg
Salt
3 to 4 tablespoons soft breadcrumbs, if needed
1 recipe Fresh Egg Pasta
8 to 10 tablespoons unsalted butter
Instructions
3 cups freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Freshly grated nutmeg
Salt
3 to 4 tablespoons soft breadcrumbs, if needed
1 recipe Fresh Egg Pasta
8 to 10 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Peel and cut squash or potatoes in large chunks. Put in saucepan with water to half cover, bring to simmer, and cook, tightly covered, until tender, about 20 minutes. Line strainer with cheesecloth and place over bowl.
2. Drain squash, cool slightly, and purée through food mill or potato ricer into cloth-lined strainer. Let drain 30 minutes. Mix squash with cheese, nutmeg and salt to taste, adding breadcrumbs as needed if filling is too wet.
2. Use filling to stuff Fresh Egg Pasta, cut, and cook as for Tortelli d’Erbette. Serves 8 to 10.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
2. Drain squash, cool slightly, and purée through food mill or potato ricer into cloth-lined strainer. Let drain 30 minutes. Mix squash with cheese, nutmeg and salt to taste, adding breadcrumbs as needed if filling is too wet.
2. Use filling to stuff Fresh Egg Pasta, cut, and cook as for Tortelli d’Erbette. Serves 8 to 10.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
My Tagliatelle with Porcini Sauce
Porcini mushrooms are not cultivated, and therefore remain a strictly seasonal delicacy. But sun-dried porcini know no season and are delicious in their own right.
Ingredients
Ingredients
2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms
1 cup boiling water
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
2 large cloves garlic, lightly crushed, peeled and minced
1 pound Fresh Egg Pasta, cut into tagliatelle (medium-wide noodles)
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus more for serving
Instructions
1 cup boiling water
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
2 large cloves garlic, lightly crushed, peeled and minced
1 pound Fresh Egg Pasta, cut into tagliatelle (medium-wide noodles)
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus more for serving
1. Put mushrooms in heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and let stand until softened, about 30 minutes. Lift mushrooms out, gently dipping to remove sand, and lightly squeeze over bowl to catch juice. Chop mushrooms roughly and set aside.
2. Strain soaking liquid through coffee filter or clean, undyed paper towel and reserve.
3. Bring 4 quarts water to a boil in large pot. Meanwhile, melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat and sauté garlic until fragrant and softened but not colored. Add mushrooms and toss until hot. Add reserved soaking liquid, bring to boil, and cook, stirring frequently, until liquid is reduced and thick. Turn off heat.
4. When water is boiling, add small handful salt and pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 1 to 2 minutes if very fresh, or 4 to 6 minutes if dried. Drain and transfer to heated serving bowl. Gently reheat sauce, remove from heat, and swirl in remaining butter. Immediately toss with pasta and Parmigiano and serve at once, passing more cheese separately. Serves 4 to 6.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
2. Strain soaking liquid through coffee filter or clean, undyed paper towel and reserve.
3. Bring 4 quarts water to a boil in large pot. Meanwhile, melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat and sauté garlic until fragrant and softened but not colored. Add mushrooms and toss until hot. Add reserved soaking liquid, bring to boil, and cook, stirring frequently, until liquid is reduced and thick. Turn off heat.
4. When water is boiling, add small handful salt and pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 1 to 2 minutes if very fresh, or 4 to 6 minutes if dried. Drain and transfer to heated serving bowl. Gently reheat sauce, remove from heat, and swirl in remaining butter. Immediately toss with pasta and Parmigiano and serve at once, passing more cheese separately. Serves 4 to 6.
Recipe by Damon Lee Fowler, author of New Southern Baking. "Relish a Classic Flavor," April 2006.
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