Wine Question

Here's a recent question from a Relish reader about wine and our wine columnist Wini Mornaville's terrific response:

Hi, This question is for Wini Moranville. I have always loved Chablis Blanc which is practically non-existent at least where I shop. I can find it by Inglenook and Gallo use to make it. Is it just not a popular variety of grape anymore. I just don't seem to care for Chardonnays, but sometimes I can find a Pinot Grigio I like. I seem to like dry wines, but Chablis is just my favorite. Thanks! — Missy Aslund


Hi Missy--

What a great question! The term "Chablis" has confused wine-drinkers for the past 40 years! That's because in the 60s and 70s and into the 80s, Chablis was a term used by California winemakers simply to refer to just about any white wine (though many were made from the Chardonnay grape).

Actually, Chablis is the name of a place--it's a village in Burgundy France. True "Chablis" wines can only be made in and around the Chablis growing area. And they are always made from the Chardonnay grape. These days, the term Chablis is generally used ONLY for these French wines--wines that come from the Chablis area. So while you can still find Chablis wines, they'll be different than the California "Chablis" wines you remember. And they also may be quite expensive--French Chablis are premium wines.

But, you might be thinking...."if I don't like Chardonnay, how come I always liked Chablis?"

The Chardonnay grape can be made into many differing styles of wine. The French use restraint when it comes to how much they age their wines in oak barrels, resulting in wines that allow the grape's pure fruit flavor to come through. In the 90s, California winemakers ramped up their use of oak barrels, resulting in big, buttery, woody tasting wines that a lot of people liked. These were different than the California "Chablis" wines you liked, and they were also different from the true French Chablis.

It doesn't sound like you were a fan of those big, buttery/oaky Chards.

Fortunately, you can find lots of Chardonnays that are made with little or no oak. New Zealand produces Chardonnays made with no oak--look for the words "unoaked" on the bottle--or "stainless steel fermented (or aged)".

Personally, I prefer moderation in the use of oak--that is, I like a little of that full, round effect that a judicious use of oak can bring, but I don't want a full-blown oak-bomb, either. The trick is finding bottles with a little restraint. Ask your wine-seller for a good French White Burgundy (these are made from Chardonnay--and Chablis would fall in this category, though there are less-expensive choices). Joseph Drouhin makes terrific white burgundies in all price ranges. (Sometimes "Bourgogne" will be on the label--that's French for Burgundy.)

Another fabulous pick is: Rosemount Show Reserve 2006 Mudgee Chardonnay-- a gorgeous wine for $15.

Or, get to know a good wine-seller and tell him/her you're looking for a Chardonnay with restrained oak influence....I guarantee there are plenty out there.

Good luck!

Best,
Wini Moranville