Although I didn't personally know Sheila Lukins, I
feel like I did, as I have been cooking out of her cookbook, The Silver
Palate since 1984, when my parents
gave me a copy for college graduation. Sheila Lukins died a couple days ago
from brain cancer. I heard it in the morning on NPR. They interviewed Lynne
Rossetto Kasper, host of the radio show, The Splendid Table about Sheila and
why her book, written with Julee Rosso had been so groundbreaking. Lynne said
it was the new Joy of Cooking to
a whole generation of cooks who were exploring ethnic foods. Indeed I had many
"firsts" through the Silver Palate—my first pesto, my first pizza,
and my first chili.
I also had many seconds and thirds and fourths. So
many, in fact that that original copy is now in 4 pieces with no binding and
I’m onto my second copy. It’s also riddled with notes about bake times, when I
served it, who liked it, why it wasn’t good, how I modified it and what it
needed more of. I’ve always felt like a cookbook should be a diary of sorts— I
love the thought of my kids pulling it out to find a note about the brownies we
had on their 4th birthday. The book isn't without flaws. The Glazed Lemon Cake has an editor's
omission mark through it, and the words "fell, don't make
again." But these are
outweighed by notes to the effect of that on the Banana Cake, marked with a
"great!" and the Peach Cake, marked with an "excellent!"
The chili and molasses cookies and Spicy Tomato Sauce are conspicuously
missing, because they're in my “master” recipe folder reserved for regulars.
Indeed my kids have grown up on their molasses cookies, and they’re still my
gold standard—thin, crisp and chewy with just the right amount of spice.
But as I sit here paging through the book, I'm
reminded of how absolutely timeless it is. I happen upon Lentil and Walnut
Salad, one I never made, and prop the book open in my cookbook
stand.........destined to be a new classic no doubt. Thank you Sheila--you've provided us with the best legacy
possible--a lifetime of delicious memories. You indeed had a silver palate.
Here is the Chicken Marbella recipe, which I came to
later in life, but love just as well. It’s possibly the recipe she’s known best
for.
Chicken Marbella
This was
the first main-course dish to be offered at The Silver Palate shop, in New York
City, and the distinctive flavors of the prunes, olives and capers kept it a
favorite for years. It's good hot or at room temperature.
1/2 cup
olive oil
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup pitted prunes
1/2 cup pitted Spanish green olives
1/2 cup capers with a bit of juice
6 dried bay leaves
1 head garlic, peeled and finely pureed
1/4 cup oregano
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 chickens (2 1/2 pounds each), quartered
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley or cilantro, finely chopped
1. In a
large bowl, combine olives oil, vinegar, prunes, olives, capers and juice, bay
leaves, garlic, oregano, and salt and pepper. Add chicken and stir to coat.
Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Preheat oven to 350F.
3. Arrange chicken in a single layer in one or two large shallow baking dishes
and spoon marinade over top evenly. Sprinkle chicken pieces with brown sugar
and pour white wine around them.
4. Bake 1 hour, basting frequently with pan juices. Chicken is done when thigh
pieces, pricked with a fork at the thickest part, yield a clear yellow (rather
than pink) liquid.
5. With a slotted spoon, transfer chicken, prunes, olives and capers to a
serving platter. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of pan juices and sprinkle with
parsley. Pour remaining pan juices into a sauce boat.
Note: To serve Chicken Marbella cold, cool to room temperature in the cooking
juices before transferring pieces to a serving platter. If the chicken has been
covered and refrigerated, reheat it in juices, then allow it to come to room
temperture before serving. Spoon some reserved juice over chicken. Serves 10 to
12.
Recipe courtesy of The Silver Palate Cookbook, 25th Anniversary Edition, by
Julee Russo and Sheila Lukins (Workman Publishing, March 2007.)
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