Wines for Thanksgiving Menus

If you've ever thought about forgoing the Thanksgiving morning ritual of rising WAY too early to get that turkey in the oven, this is your year. In fact, with fowl-free menus like these, you might even find yourself getting a good night's sleep before the big day. So, forget the bird!

Menu 1: Tennessee Cheddar Puffs, Pork Loin with Roasted Pears and Shallots, Butternut Squash Cheese Panade, Sautéed Broccoli Rabe, Eggnog Spice Bundt Cake  

Chuck says: This is such an agreeable menu that it may even force us to agree, with nary a quibble or a squabble between us. Now wouldn't that be something?!

The flavors —especially that delectable pork and pear combo—just scream Riesling, right? And texture? Another slam-dunk! Just about everything here is sublimely silky, and that once again brings us straight to Riesling-ville. Heck, something with a little off-dry attitude might even take us all the way from start-to-finish, and be exceptionally scrummy with the eggnog and spice cake. So, because I deserve it - and you do, too! - let's go for the Mönchhof Mosel Slate Riesling Spätlese ($25), a sublimely elegant wine that fulfills all those requirements, and so much more.

Wini says: Riesling is it! I like it for all the reasons you do, plus one more: Choose a good bottle that's lower in alcohol (7.5 to 10.5 percent) and you can sip it throughout a long and joyous Thanksgiving feast without getting overly addled. Two lower-alcohol German Rieslings that I recently tasted offered a windfall of fruit backed by palate-pleasing zip—in short, all the elegance you expect from this grape. They were: Kesselstatt 2008 Piesporter Riesling Kabinett (8% alcohol; $28) and Schloss Saarstein 2008 Riesling Kabinett (7.5% alcohol; $25).

If those prove too difficult to find (not to mention pronounce!), go for the always reliable Two Princes Riesling (10.5% alcohol; $15).


Menu 2: Pomegranate Roasted Leg of Lamb, Spinach and Mushroom Panade, Whipped Sweet Potatoes, Tennessee Whiskey Cake with Sorghum Frozen Yogurt

Chuck says: Gotta tell you, I'm pretty jazzed about this panade idea for Thanksgiving this year. Not that I don't love traditional stuffings, but frankly, I am so in the mood for mixing things up. And I'll bet I'm not alone.

Then again, when it comes to a wine pairing for this menu constructed around an amazing Pomegranate Roasted Leg of Lamb, I just might find myself heading back to something tried-and-true, Pinot Noir. With the brightness of the pomegranate accenting the tender lamb, I've a hankering for a wine bringing similar red fruit flavors, as well as a measure of earthiness to go with the mushrooms in the panade. The only problem is, now that I've gone over the wall in terms of budget, I'm having a heck of a time reining myself in. I WANT IT ALL, AND I'M GONNA HAVE IT!

So here's the deal: A few months back I had a chance to taste through a bunch of Pinots from the wonderful Oregon producer, Soter. And reading through these recipes immediately brought my mind back to that very exciting tasting. Of those wines, the Soter North Valley Pinot Noir ($35) would be an incredible pick for our menu. With something as magnificent as leg of lamb, why settle for less?

Wini says: You definitely don't want a big heavy bruiser of a wine at Thanksgiving, so I'll not only agree with Pinot Noir, but I'll stay in Oregon with my pick. WillaKenzie Estate 2007 Pinot Noir ($26) does what Pinot does best. It shimmers gracefully in the glass, and brims with cherry-berry flavors that are at once bright and deep. The finish brings a pleasant "thwack" of acidity that helps keep a meal light on its feet. I can't say enough about this wine.

Menu 3: Butternut Squash Panade, Braised Savoy Cabbage Rolls, Jalapeño Cranberry Relish, Lemon Slice-and-Bake Cookies

Chuck says: If you're looking to shake things up, the final menu fills the bill in a startlingly scrumptious way. But, I'm not going to beat around the bush—that jalapeño/cranberry combo, while delicious, isn't exactly the friendliest partner for many wines. Anything tannic or especially tart better run for cover. Here, we need full body, generous fruit flavors, and for even more interest, let's go ahead and throw in some beguiling floral aromas. And NOW we've covered all the bases!

So, does it sound like I've already laid the crosshairs on my pick? You bet I have. To complement the hearty braised cabbage rolls, while also rising to that jalapeño and cranberry challenge, I've set my sights on New Zealand's Jackson Estate Shelter Belt Chardonnay ($24), a mouth-fillingly generous and beautifully balanced sip. What do you have in mind, my friend?

Wini says: Indeed, balance is key here and I like your idea of a generous New Zealand Chardonnay. Your pick has spent some time on oak, which helps make it more toasty and round. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with that!

However, for those who have been enjoying unoaked styles of Chardonnay that have become popular in recent years, I've found a good one: Ruffino Libaio Chardonnay ($12). Even though this pick has seen no oak treatment, it still possesses a nice medium body that will help it stand up to the heft of those turkey-stuffed cabbage rolls. Yet with bright apple flavors backed by clean, citrusy notes, it's not going to fight with anything on this particular table, either. I also admire the price. Most of our picks this month are in the moderate category (after all, it is Thanksgiving). But if you're hosting a houseful, this one will do you proud without doing in your budget





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