wine picks

He Says, She Says, June 2007

Grilled Vegetables and Pork Chops with Lemongrass Marinade

Wini says: Chill up a Chenin Blanc for this one—it’s great for people who enjoy lots of fruit in their wine. And because most aren’t complicated by oak, they won’t fight with the many intriguing flavors of this dish. Better yet, if you’re celebrating Dad’s Day, bring out a sparkling wine made from Chenin Blanc, such as those from the Loire Valley. A great choice is Bouvet Signature Brut, a relatively inexpensive pick that’s widely available.

Chuck says: Next time I object to serving Chenin with summertime fare like this, please do me a favor and have me checked out—something will have gone terribly wrong inside this feeble little mind of mine. Or better yet, ship me off to the Loire until I regain my senses. (Hmm . . . you know, this choice of Chenin Blanc is abominable, an outrage . . . .)

And yet, there are those among us who’d sooner serve a bottle of premiere cru Yoo-hoo than ANY white wine. To those, I’d simply say: keep it light, keep it fun, and go with a red that’s best served slightly chilled. With grilled pork chops, Brouilly—an easy-drinking Beaujolais—comes to mind.

Fried Green Tomatoes with Peach Chutney

Wini says: I generally like the idea of Sauvignon Blanc with tomatoes and goat cheese (matching acid for acid), but with rice vinegar and pickled ginger in the salsa, might the acidic wine make it all a little too pickle-ish? How about a food-friendly rosé, such as one from Spain or the South of France. I’m thinking the tinge of fruits will contrast all this pickle-y stuff nicely. At about $7.50 a bottle, the refreshing Marques de Caceres Rosé is a steal.

Chuck says: I love chutney, but it sure can make for a problematic wine pairing. Not only is there the acidity to contend with, but also lots of sweetness and bite. You can almost always find a wine that works with one or two of those qualities, but it can be tough to match all three.

Fortunately, this isn’t only about the chutney—I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the texture and richness of the fried cornmeal crust, green tomatoes and goat cheese will actually do some palate-scrubbing here, keeping the chutney’s intensity under control. So, if all goes according to plan, maybe a white with manageable acidity, but also some sweetness and a plump-ish mouth feel, could be quite nice.

This is anything but conventional—maybe even quirky—but I honestly might chance an off-dry Riesling here. Hey, in wine matching as well as in life, a little sweetness can sometimes get you out of a jam, right? What I have in mind is something on the order of Columbia Winery’s Cellarmaster’s Riesling, which combines the acidity, sweetness and the mouth-feel I’m after. There’s even some stone fruit (apricot, peach) to this wine that just might be dynamite. Roll the dice, I say!

Easy Oven Ribs with Blue Cheese Coleslaw

Wini says: Well, I have to admit, I’m kind of a one-note wonder when it comes to barbecue with wine. I tend to like red Zinfandel, simply because it’s fruity and spicy and has good heft. Also, if you’re serving these for the Fourth of July, Zin is perfect, because it’s considered the all-American grape (it’s rarely cultivated outside of the United States).

However, if it’s really hot out, I might go for something as refreshing as a beer, but still firmly entrenched in the wine category: Asti. It’s fruity and light and simply a lot of fun. This wouldn’t be the most serious food-and-wine pairing, but it will perfectly match a bright summer day! Martini and Rossi is widely available—find some at discount warehouse stores if you’re looking to serve a party.

Chuck says: We’re on the same page with that red Zin, pal. Lip-smackin’ juiciness partnered with saucy, sizzlin’ pig . . . YOW! I’m in no mood to mess with that formula right now, especially, as we’re heading into prime ’cuing season. Hit me later in the year and I might be ready to experiment. But not yet—not till I’ve had my fill. Of both.

Classic Pimiento Cheese

Wini says: This Northern gal knows nothing about pimiento cheese except that it sure looks yummy! People in the South are probably looking at this recipe and going “yeah, yeah, pimiento cheese, whatever.” But to the rest of us, this looks downright exotic! And wouldn’t it be a fun thing to serve, maybe cut into cute little crust-less triangles, while you’re passing out glasses of wine at a patio party?

But what wine would that be? Cheddar being the bulk of the flavor here, I’d go with a good, cheese-friendly choice. And when you think about what goes well with cheese, you think fruit, right? So why not a nicely fruity wine, like a lighter style of Syrah (from Australia or California, I’d say). Chas.?

Chuck says: Oh, man, this recipe brings back such incredible memories! I grew up with pimiento cheese—my Mississippi Grandma was never without it. At her house, I used to slather impossibly thick globs of the stuff between slices of honey wheat bread, sit down at her tiny kitchen table, and listen to her tell the most amazing collection of stories, each flowing entrancingly into the next. Needless to say, the pimiento cheese we had at home never tasted anywhere near as good as Grandma’s.

I have to admit, this is the first time matching wine with pimiento cheese has ever crossed my mind. And, as a staunch Southern Baptist, Grandma certainly wouldn’t have thought much of the notion. So maybe this once, I’ll stick with iced tea—and just like hers, it’ll be as strong and sweet as I can make it. That’ll make it a perfect pairing for my memories.




Wini Moranville writes a monthly wine column for Relish, and also contributes food and wine stories to a variety of publications, including Better Homes and Gardens, Country Home, Creative Home and Celebrate the Seasons. Charles Smothermon writes the "Ask the Wine Geek" column for Relish and is a frequent contributor to magazines, books and websites. A resident of Montana and Abense de Haut, France, Charles also leads food and wine tours in Europe. For more information, visit www.woollybugger.org


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