wine picks

He Says, She Says July 2007

Wine columnist Charles Smothermon suggests wines to go with this month’s recipes.

I’m all on my lonesome this month, as my partner-in-pairings is off laboring through a grueling itinerary of European wine tastings and tours. Hang in there, Wini—we’re counting on you to share some real winners when you get back!

Linguine with Cilantro Pesto

Now, let’s scan that ingredient list for Linguine with Cilantro Pesto. . . . Hmmm, what immediately leaps to mind is how herb-intensive this thing is. We’re talkin’ a full cup-and-a-quarter of palate-perking parsley and cilantro! To me, this screams light, zesty, summer-perfect fare. And to go along with it, I want a wine that will go toe-to-toe in terms of herbal excitement and invigorating zing.

For all that and more, I’m thinking of nothing other than a racy Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand’s Marlborough region. Cloudy Bay is a producer often credited with putting this exciting region on the map, and their Sauvignon Blanc is consistently delicious—wouldn’t ever snub my nose to a taste of that one. But it ain’t cheap, either. So, for alternatives, I’d also consider two wines from Villa Maria, another Marlborough producer. Their Private Bin is a solid offering toward the lower end of the price spectrum, and Villa Maria’s Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc is a rave-worthy wine that runs—and is well worth—a few bucks more. Bonus: Villa Maria’s wines are usually quite easy to find.

Roasted Chicken Salad with Basil

This is another super summer recipe, this time making great use of ultra-convenient rotisserie chicken. And because it features that roasted chicken in partnership with a generous mix of full-flavored vegetables, this suggests an abundance of interesting wine possibilities. In fact, the recipe is so darned wine-friendly that if you pull big, chewy reds out of the equation, it’s doubtful you’re going to go horribly wrong. But that said, what would be RIGHT?

The wine I simply can’t get out of my head for this—and I’ve tried, because unfortunately, not much of it is made—is an Arneis from Ponzi, a producer in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

Arneis is a white variety originating in Italy’s Piedmont region, and its fortunes, its quality and its production levels in Piedmont have swung up and down wildly over the years. But this Oregon version is so beautifully balanced, in terms of medium body and acidity, and features such a captivating mix of aromas—including floral, honeysuckle accents—that I fell in love with it from the moment it first hit my glass. Those engaging qualities, along with the apricot flavor you’re sure to sense on the palate, make Ponzi’s Arneis my choice. But again, I want to repeat: Many wines will adore this roasted chicken salad. So if you feel like spinning the roulette wheel, this would be a good time to take some wine pairing chances—and that goes even if you’ve got your heart set on a favorite light-ish red. Let me know if you hit the jackpot.

Farmer’s Market Couscous

If you want to make the most of garden-fresh vegetables, you’d be well advised to make this dish. Ahh, but what to pour alongside. . . .

Of all the delectable flavors here, something that’s speaking softly to me is the dulcet nuttiness couscous often displays. The challenge however, is to find a wine that highlights this delicate nuance, while still offering the vivacious perk of a white wine that’s refreshing all summer long.

For me, the solution is a particular Spanish Albariño called Pazo de Señorans, a wine that stands apart from most others of this variety. How’s it different?

Many Albariños pop your palate with a blast of exhilarating tartness—which of course, at the right time and place can be utterly sensational. But the Pazo dials this flashiness back a bit, and brings more body—and yes, some subtle nuttiness—into the mix. Best of all, there’s just enough citrusy flair to make this a fitting antidote to summer’s hottest days. For fresh sautéed vegetables against a backdrop of mild, nutty couscous, this is what I want in my glass.




Wini Moranville writes a monthly wine column for Relish, and also contributes food and wine stories to a variety of publications, including Better Homes and Gardens, Country Home, Creative Home and Celebrate the Seasons. Charles Smothermon writes the "Ask the Wine Geek" column for Relish and is a frequent contributor to magazines, books and websites. A resident of Montana and Abense de Haut, France, Charles also leads food and wine tours in Europe. For more information, visit www.woollybugger.org


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