He Says, She Says August 2007

Chuck says: I love mussels, and this recipe offers nothing less than a classic, delicious way of preparing them. Not only might you taste something like this in Provence, but in nearby Languedoc as well, which leads me to my wine choice, Corbières.

Now, I have to confess—most of the time I drink white wine with mussels. But for me, Corbières is one of the few reds that really clicks with mussels, and there will be a beautiful connection between it and the fennel here. But there’s another reason I want to mention it this month: Because Corbières isn’t blatantly dense or heavy, it’s a great summertime alternative for those wine drinkers who insist on sticking with red 12 months out of the year. What do you say, Wini—some other options here?

Wini says: Ah, this recipe is taking me right to the French coastline—all of ’em, including the Mediterranean, the Atlantic, and the English Channel (though the French certainly don’t call it the “English” channel). Throughout seaside cafés in La Belle France, Moules-Frites—mussels with French fries—is a classic casual entrée, and cheap, too (about 10 euros these days). Not haute cuisine by any means, but an honest, joyous meal.

Do you know what I’d do if I were tucking into a bowl of these in, say, Nice? I’d simply ask for “un quart” (a quarter-litre, about 2 glasses) of whatever the house rosé might be. In the South of France, it would be dry, food friendly and refreshing. Nope, no brow-furrowing allowed with this match—a nicely chilled crisp French rosé it must be. And, by the way, I pity the fool who’s a red-wine-only geek.

For my recent South of France rosé picks, go to http://www.relishmag.com/article/22653.html

Coconut Curry Mussels

Chuck says: This is a superb way to enjoy mussels, too! I think I’ll go back to the more conventional white to complement this preparation. What immediately comes to mind in terms of a fitting wine match is the silky mouth feel of coconut milk in this recipe. And with the pineapple, curry and ginger, there’s also some sweetness and spice.

I’m sorely tempted to go with a very specific choice here, Pine Ridge’s Chenin Blanc/Viognier blend. It’s mostly Chenin, which is pretty close to ideal for these mussels, and the 20 percent or so of Viognier adds a little depth—nice balance for that coconut milk. This wine even shows some pineapple on the palate. I see this working pretty darned well, how about you?

Wini says: What he said!

Charles, when I studied the recipes (and before I read your response), I was going to go with Chardonnay—you know, full-mouth feel, tropical fruits that would mesh well with coconut, etc., etc. But I wasn’t entirely happy with that choice. It seemed kind of obvious, and besides, Chards can be kind of hefty and overpowering and absolutely clash with spices.

Your idea is much, much better. I love the idea of Chenin Blanc (good with spice), but like the idea that the Viognier will add that bit of heft. That sounds like an amazing wine!

Middle Eastern Mezze Plate

Chuck says: Do the names Château Musar and Château Kefraya ring a bell? If not, you might hazard a guess that with the French word, château, these wines might possibly be from France. But actually, they’re from the Bekaa valley of Lebanon. I can’t think of anything more appropriate to serve with the Middle Eastern Mezze Plate than Middle Eastern white wine. These two Lebanese wines struck me as surprisingly good when I tasted them last fall. And for future reference, keep Château Musar’s flagship red wine in mind—one of the most highly regarded of all Lebanese wines.

Wini says: Wrong, wrong, wrong, Chuck! Any fool knows that the best Château in Lebanon is, hands down, Château--, um, let’s see, yes, it’s on the tip of my tongue. . . .

OK, I’ve never had a Lebanese wine. I’m up for trying one anytime, but in the meantime, for something a little more accessible and mainstream—a suggestion that won’t set your WINE GEEK radar off (mine’s going crazy, Chuck, thank you very much)—why not try something from Spain?

You see, when I was in Spain in June, a lot of the foods I tasted had an irresistible Middle-Eastern influence to them—especially the tapas choices. I often drank sherry with these foods. Fino is easy to find and has a dry, light character—with subtle and interesting sea-salt appeal that goes with the food. Even more approachable (but sometimes not as easy to get your hands on) are the dark, fragrant Oloroso sherries. Try Osborne Bailen for a good jumping-off point into the realm of sherry. One caveat: Drink nicely chilled and serve in small glasses—because they’re fortified wines, they’re stronger than most table wines.

Italian Antipasto Plate

Chuck says: With such a diversity of contrasting flavors to consider here, there may not be one choice that equally suits each specific nibble on the plate. For instance, the meats just might pair succulently with a red, but the subtler flavors elsewhere on the plate might best be complemented by an elegant Italian white. The solution? We need to tag-team this one, my friend! How about I come up with a white, and you hit us with a red, Wini? That way, we’ll have the bases covered.

As for me, I’ve a strong hankering for a delicate, tangy Piedmontese Gavi this time around. The tart, citrusy finish will be refreshing and palate-cleansing with the antipasto plate’s profusion of flavors. And, there’s some light ‘n’ lovely floral activity on the nose that will provide a whole lot of interest and pleasure in-between bites. The moderately priced Principessa Gavia label would be a Gavi you might want to keep an eye out for.

Wini says: Good choice, Chuck! You definitely want a little refreshment as you go from savory bite to savory bite on this fascinating antipasto plate. But can you get such refreshment from a red? Si! Reach for a Barbera, a lighter Italian red with lots of fruitiness (think cherries and blackberries) as well as some pleasant acidity. Put a little chill on it before serving. For even more refreshment, try Lambrusco—a slightly fizzy Italian red that will go down well in summer. Some Lambruscos are sweet and simple—for a serious, drier side of the sip (and what Italians generally prefer), go to a wine shop specializing in Italian wines and ask them to hook you up with a crisper style of this wine.

Shrimp and Corn Pudding

Chuck says: OK, I’ve struggled a bit here. Not with the dish—I’d happily scarf this up any day. Just a little conflicted on my wine choice. So, let’s run through the thought process here: I want to make sure I find a good complement to the ultra-high comfort food factor, while meshing with the spices at the same time—namely, the white pepper, nutmeg and cayenne. Complementary body is critical for this wine. Something overly thin and light would taste unpleasantly thin and light after a bite of this rich corn pudding. And truly, any sort of “in-your-face” wine isn’t gonna fly with the corn pudding, either. A light-ish red could definitely work, and work well, but since it’s still the dog days of August, I’m drawn to white wine a little more than usual. So what’s it gonna be?

Well, after all that, I’m opting for one of my favorite food wines of the moment—Oregon Pinot Gris. If you’re looking for specifics, Raptor Ridge makes a very distinctive and interesting version, and at a recent tasting I did for a local shop, Adelsheim’s Pinot Gris was a big hit, too.

Wini says: Next time I get to answer the questions first! You stole my thunder here! Absolutely, a richer style of Pinot Gris—such as many of those coming out of Oregon—is going to sing with this dish. All I can add to your fine recommendation is one of my favorite Oregon Pinot Gris: King Estate, a nicely creamy yet vibrant choice. It’s a knockout!

’Till next month, Chas.!