He Says, She Says November 2007

Oyster Stew and Oyster Dressing

Wini says: Could there possibly be a better match with oysters than Champagne? I'm warning you, Charles—I won't take yes for an answer!

Oysters and Champagne are a classic combo for many reasons, but I think first and foremost, they simply taste beautifully together. Fresh, plump oysters—bursting with that brisk, salt-of-the-sea brine—bring a little sea-sent sparkle to the mouth, which is only enhanced by the heaven-sent sparkle that is Champagne.

For the soup—and to toast the holiday meal—I suggest a toasty-dry style of real French Champagne that brims with little bubbles and lots of finesse. I’m a fan of Taittinger La Française; at about $35 a bottle, it’s special-occasion priced, but then, anytime you bring out the oysters, it’s usually a special occasion.

When you move onto a main meal that stars the Oyster Dressing, if you still want to enjoy sparkling wine, yet have enough bottles to pour around the table a few times, switch to cava, Spain’s answer to France’s Champagne. I’ve never been disappointed with Segura Viudas, Friexenet or Cristalino (in all cases, look for “Brut” on the label for a crisp, dry style). Pick up a supply at discount warehouses.

Chuck says: I wouldn’t DARE suggest there’s anything better than Champagne here. Set a glass of good French Champagne in front of me with this (Veuve Cliquot Brut would do nicely, thank you), and watch it quickly disappear. But that said, there are still some really, really good alternatives if—and only if—you’re not in the mood for bubbles.

First off, as I mentioned last time around, it’s tough to beat Muscadet for a go-to oyster wine. Can’t go wrong. Last month's pick still applies and would pair beautifully.

But since this story is about American oysters, I think we also ought to offer an American wine option. Specifically, I have in mind a Washington State Sémillon from L'Ecole No. 41 in Walla Walla. L’Ecole does several versions (the Fries Vineyard is my fav), which all show a zesty and refreshing side of Sémillon you just don’t see every day. In fact, most of your typical, ultra-fat and fleshy Sémillons would be big-time losers here. It’s the long, tangy finish of top Washington Sémillons that makes ’em click with oysters. If you can’t go this route, avoid Sémillon altogether and opt for Champagne or Muscadet.

Ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Wini says: You know, we wine writers generally yap about rosé wines in the summer, but is there any reason we can’t drink rosé in the winter, too? Sure, it’s often a bright, light wine that goes down well when you’re yachting around the French Riviera, but as I read this recipe, I’m kind of craving the likes of a dry, refreshing French or Spanish rosé with the salty flavor of the prosciutto ham here—even if I’m enjoying it fireside in Iowa.

A trick may be to find a rosé that isn’t summery-light, but one with a good, round body, too. Red Bicyclette from the South of France is a lush, nicely rounded and fully fruity pick. Et toi, Chas.?

Chuck says: No can do, Missy: I’m strictly a summertime rosé yapper. (By the way, did you check-in with the wine writers’ union before making that off-season pick? Hate to think of you being fitted for a pair of cement overshoes right about now. . . . )

Anyway, no point in making a big hoo-ha out of this pairing. Oozy cheese calls for unctuous wine, and a grilled cheese sandwich means “fun and easy.” So here’s something I’ll bet you never thought you’d hear me say: Go with a big, bold New World Chardonnay from California or Australia. Don’t laugh! I’ve been waiting years for this, so don’t spoil it!

OK, butterscotchy, mouth-coating Chards don’t pair well with very many foods—no secret there. But lots of people still love ’em for all their brashness and flair. If you do, this is your chance to slurp up the biggest and baddest alongside something that is drippingly over-the-top enough to go with it. Indulge, even if you feel better denying it in the morning.

Thanksgiving Menu (Spiced Pecans, Mixed Greens with Blue Cheese and Champagne Vinaigrette, Herb Brined Turkey, Cranberry-Jalapeno Relish, Sausage and Cornbread Dressing, Sautéed Mustard Greens, Bacon Mashed Potatoes, Kentucky Bourbon Sweet Potato Casserole, Mississippi Cream Cheese Pound Cake).

Wini says: There are masterful sommeliers at restaurants around the country that would perfectly scout out about six different wines for this vast and varied menu, and offer weensy (or do I mean wimpy?) 2-ounce pours with each dish.

But this is no wine dinner—this is Thanksgiving, and with my family, that means a joyful, chaotic jumble of people, none of whom are going to stop the nonstop conversation to fawn over the way the Riesling brings out the sweet side of the cranberries.

While I might kick off the meal with something extraordinary (as in the Champagne with the oysters, above), for the main sit-down feast, I’ll simply set out a few bottles of red, a few bottles of white, and let everyone have at it. I'm not necessarily looking for a wine that everyone oohs and ahs over—I simply want something that tastes good, goes well with many things, and keeps the good times humming along.

That said, I think we need to be a wee bit careful, because there are a lot of bold flavors in this menu. For the red, I do not think a big, bold, in-your-face, juicy, ripe (i.e. “New World”) wine is going to work here; I want a more earthy and laid-back choice.

I’m going for Christian Moueix Merlot, a wine I highlighted in this month’s wine column. Widely available at around $11 a bottle, it’s fruity, supple and approachable, but with plenty of charming little extras (vanilla, spice and a food-friendly zip) to make it holiday-worthy. As an aside, Christian Moueix is sort of a rock star in the wine world; the wine geeks at your table will know him as the owner of the world-famous Château Pétrus—one of the world’s most coveted (and expensive) wines. The fact that Monsieur Moueix makes such a fabulous everyday wine for the rest of us is kind of amazing. It’s a little like having the Rolling Stones play at your birthday party.

The white? I’m going for a nice, brisk German Riesling. My mouth is watering as I imagine how the fruitiness will take the edge off the spiced pecans, yet how their acidity will help balance out the richness in the juicy turkey, the bacon-mashed potatoes and that sausage stuffing. I also like the way this lighter style of white won’t weigh me down as I indulge in things like . . . bacon-mashed potatoes! What a feast!

Chuck says: Hey, if you want to talk masterful, that’s the analysis you just made—incredible. I’m buying in: lock, stock and French oak barrel. Like you said, with the myriad of flavors on just about any Thanksgiving menu, finding only one perfect wine to go with it all is darned near impossible. (By the way, I definitely share your disdain for that nauseatingly pretentious 2-ounces of this-and-that hogwash!) And as you also point out, the bottom line is that this meal is about a whole lot more than just the wine.

So, when it comes to red, I like your idea of value-minded French wines because these wines are almost always crafted with food-friendliness as the overarching goal. Nothing flamboyant (I’ll leave that to some of my relatives), no wow factor, just pleasant quaffing alongside tons of different flavors—without drawing attention away from the food.

I think too many people feel pressure when it comes to Thanksgiving wines, thinking that because this is one of the grandest meals of the year, they need to pour a correspondingly impressive—and expensive—wine alongside the main dishes. Most of the time, that’s a recipe for disappointment. When you have a wildly diverse menu, running the gamut of mucho salty, spicy, sweet and puckeringly tart flavors, chances are that at least one or more of the dishes will clash with the wine, sometimes even making it taste bad. If you feel the need to serve something extravagant, do Champagne or an awesome white wine before the meal or maybe with a first course. Then move on to something simpler with the main meal.

My food-friendly red wine pick is a simple French Vin de Pays from the southern Rhône, called “La Piece Sous le Bras.” For around 11 bucks you get a very straightforward, easy-sipping red blend made up of mostly Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, along with a little Merlot and Cinsault. Juicy, soft, medium-bodied, this is a friendly and accessible wine just about everyone should enjoy. If you can’t find that one, my backup would be a red from the unheralded Côtes du Roussillon region, also in southern France. Many of these are also honest, down-to-earth, value-based wines that love food. Domaine Lafage’s El Maset is an example of what I’m talking about with these.

As for whites, I love your German Riesling idea for this meal! The only thing I’d add is that for myself, I’d probably opt for one labeled “Kabinett,” because these, if not completely dry, tend toward that dry-ish/slightly off-dry sweetness zone, which I think would be dynamite here—don’t want to stray toward anything glaringly sweet.

Vegetable Lasagna

Wini says: This killer recipe came just in time! I've made about five pans of lasagna in the last month, and as much as I love my traditional recipe, I'm looking for something new. Turnip greens! Butternut Squash! Spinach! Yum!

This uncommon lasagna deserves a wine that’s a little bit offbeat, too. How about a robust Cabernet Franc? Though it’s a little like Cabernet Sauvignon when it comes to taste and structure (envision a mouth full of dark fruits flavors, like blackcurrants), it’s not quite as tannin-y, making it an enjoyable party sip to pour while the dish is still bubbling in the oven. Many Cabernet Francs bring a bonus of herbs and floral notes—these will mesh nicely with the greens and veggies here.

What's your pick for this amazing 13x9 pan of fabulous flavors, Chuck?

Chuck says: Yup, I love lasagna too and can’t wait to make this one—in fact, what’s got me jazzed is that this totally blows away that tired old “vegetable lasagna formula” we’ve been seeing since, like, forever. And I agree with your idea of serving a fairly substantial red with this, too. Looking at those ingredients you just mentioned gets me thinking rustic—and I’m already thinking Italian with lasagna—so how about a full, slightly tart, and satisfying Sicilian red wine for this?

Wines from Sicily have been exploding in popularity lately, and for good reason. Quality is better and more consistent than ever, and many Sicilian reds feature a grape variety—Nero D’Avola—that can be spectacularly delicious. I think it will be wonderful with our lasagna. If you’re looking for one to try, give Feudo Arancio’s Nero D’Avola a shot. For something like $12, this one’s well worth rolling the dice on.

Take care, amie, and see you next month!