He Says, She Says January 2008

Salad with Orange Cumin Vinaigrette

Chuck says: Happy New Year, Wini! Here’s to another year of bringing together great food and exciting wines. So, how ’bout we start out by sitting down to a hearty chicken dinner, kicked off with an intriguing salad?

You know, I’ve gone back and forth on my pick for this about a zillion times. The vinaigrette has a whole lot going on—citrus, herb, spice, sweetness and a little red pepper heat—so I want to avoid any nasty clashes with the wine. For me, top of the no-no list would be an ultra-tart, bone-dry white. We’re talkin’ train wreck when a wine like that meets the cumin and red pepper. And the honey sweetness is another nail in the coffin for a mega-dry wine—could accentuate the wine’s bite to devastating effect.

So I’ve settled on something off-dry for this, but the problem is that I can’t make up my mind between what I see as two pretty decent choices! Maybe I’ll just have to try ’em both. First, I can make a case for a slightly sweet Washington State Gewürztraminer, because I love the idea of that fleshy mouth-feel, along with the spicy nose, working with the cumin and red pepper. But what about a slightly unctuous, off-dry Vouvray? Pop that Chenin flavor against the citrus, honey and cilantro, and you might have something just as compelling. I’m torn—what’s your take on this?

Wini says: While an easy-drinking, food-flattering Vouvray’s a no-brainer, the Gewürz is weighing a little heavier on my mind. That’s probably because when I think of Gewürz, what comes to mind is Alsace, where bottles brim with that almost perfumy rose and spice appeal. Too much of that could get downright ugly with that busy vinaigrette.

But I see exactly where you’re going by recommending Washington State Gewürztraminer! The ones I’ve tasted are more about fruits than flowers, and the spices are a bit tamer. That sounds like a winner with this dish, my good friend.

Braised Chicken with Fire-Roasted Tomatoes

Chuck says: OK, I might’ve been on-the-fence about that last pairing, but I have no doubt about what I want to drink with this zesty braised chicken dish. I’ve tasted so many exciting, food-favorable wines from southern France lately, that that’s where I’m going for this pick. In fact, let’s head for Languedoc-Roussillon, where there’s not only been lots of successful experimentation with nontraditional varieties, but also new life for its historic appellations.

A red wine from Minervois—one of those rejuvenated historic zones within Languedoc—would be dynamite here. Many of these are lightish to medium-bodied, extremely well balanced in terms of tannin and acidity, and adaptable to an abundance of mouth-watering dishes. If you want a specific producer to look for, Gérard Bertrand would be a good one to start with, offering a range from good value wines on up to high-priced stunners. They produce a Minervois that sells in the mid-teens—and is a blend of Syrah and Carignan—which would partner beautifully with this braised, tomatoey chicken. You’ve GOT to be with me on this one, Wini—I know you love this region at least as much as I do, if not more!

Wini says: Oui, monsieur! It’s true—j’adore the Minervois! The impossibly medieval village of Minerve—pretty much built into and atop a cliff—is a magical place that makes veering off the beaten path in France an unrivaled joy.

But since this is a wine blog, not a travelogue, I’ll stick to the topic of vin. I agree with your choice, but I’d only point out that if you can’t find a good-value Minervois wine, it’s good to remember, as you point out, that the Minervois is a subregion within the much larger Languedoc-Rousillon region. And the country wines (vin de pays) of the area—labeled “Vin de Pays d’Oc”—are among my favorite everyday table wines around. A recent find (which I wrote about in this month’s column) is the fab-for-the-price B&G Bistro Wine Pinot Noir. For $9 a bottle, you find the kind of food-friendly acidic brightness and lighter body that you mention with your fancy-pants choice. And guess what—I bet my pick’s a heck of a lot easier to find than yours! So there!

Apricot and Lamb Tagine

Chuck says: Too bad Moroccan wines are as scarce as hen’s teeth in the States. That’s all I’m going to say because I remember all too well the smack-down I got from you when I had the guts (stupidity?) to recommend a Lebanese wine to our readers. Not even gonna go there.

Nonetheless, this killer recipe appeals to me in a very big way. I love tagines—not only the food part, but the beautiful cooking vessels, too. And what a fantastic January dinner! But this is another one of those times when we want to be careful about choosing a wine that takes absolutely nothing away from the dish. I do want a red wine to go with that lamb, but no way am I opting for something heavy or oaky. This is a recipe dripping with subtlety. It would be criminal to serve any sort of flamboyant wine that detracts from that. I’m going to play it safe and go with something that offers pleasant, enjoyable quaffing in-between delectable bites—a Côtes-du-Rhône or Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. You may remember that I’ve recommended Delas Frères’s St. Esprit in the past, and that still holds—even better if you can nab the ’05 vintage, which is drinking quite nicely right now.

Wini says: You say Grenache, I say Garnacha!

OK—you didn’t exactly say “Grenache,” but that’s kind of/sort of what you meant when you recommended Côtes-du-Rhône and Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages, since Grenache anchors the blend of grapes in those irresistibly earthy, food-friendly wines.

Zip on down to Spain, and you’ll find they coax some terrific wines out of that grape, too. I’m partial to Las Rocas Garnacha—a completely non-noisy, nicely ripe and fruity wine that goes great with all kinds of foods. Lay in a supply—it’s usually less than $10 a bottle—and it will go with just about everything that’s red-wine worthy.

African Peanut Stew

Chuck says: Hey, I like the looks of this! It’s definitely going on my “to-make” list. And I’m curious to see whether you go white or red or even pink with this, Wini. Some very interesting pairing possibilities, aren’t there? Even though the stew is vegetable all-the-way, it’s definitely hearty, and I really do think a red could work as long as we stay light, bright and fruit-forward. So let’s give that a try. . . . What fits?

Well, even though I’m a bit concerned about that curry powder, the prominent appearance of tomato in this has me thinking Chianti—and it certainly fits the flavor profile I had in mind. Not only that, where tomato leads, Chianti can usually follow. I’m going with it. The only thing I’ll say is, no need to opt for a Riserva version here. A friendly Chianti Classico or Rufina seems just about right.

Wini says: I’d roll the dice on your red, too, but white-wine drinkers shouldn’t feel left out. In fact, just last night a friend of mine cooked up a feast of Indian food, and one dish was particularly rife with nuts and the same sort of ginger-curry-garlic spices in this must-make recipe. We had three bottles of wine on the table. The Australian Shiraz that was just too heavy, and an oaky California Chard was too busy. But a light, acidic Riesling was just right—we had a particularly bright and zippy pick that proved incredibly refreshing between bites of the complex dish.

Dried Cherry Chili

Chuck says: For this chili, let’s make a trip south of the border—WAY south of the border. I have an idea that an Argentinean Malbec or blend would make a most appealing complement to all these satisfying flavors, including the dried cherries. Start thinking of all the adjectives so often used to describe these Argentine gems—such as velvety, soft, ripe, plummy—and that’s just what this chili is crying out for. Pick one you like or try a blend like La Posta’s Cocina Blend, which is mostly Malbec, along with Bonarda and Syrah.

Wini says: Put me down for the Malbec, too! And get those Argentines while they’re hot, right? That is, while the geeks are all over this one, more casual wine-drinkers aren’t yet hip to these fruity-but-firm reds. That means you can still find terrific values, such as Gascon Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina) for a great price—that label is just $12 for something that tastes a lot more serious!

Good call, Charles. Can’t wait to see what you come up with for February, when we all have a bit of romance on the mind.