He Says, She Says February 2008

Lamb Shanks with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and White Beans

Wini says: Hello there, Chuck. I haven’t heard from you in a while—methinks you’re somewhere in the French Pyrenees, and I’m verte with envy.

And I’m wondering if, perhaps, you’re dining on dishes exactly like this—lamb and white beans are soooooo Southwest of France. If so, you’re probably downing a fine old food-friendly red Bordeaux with it. Am I right?

So, let me guess. You probably flew into Bordeaux, and on your way down to your place, after some exquisite meals in centuries-old restaurants, you picked up some fabulous Bordeaux wines. And even though the dollar is in the cellar right now, you probably got them for a relative steal.

Well, guess what? We can still get good Bordeaux stateside for a decent price, because famed Bordeaux winemaker Christian Moueix has just come out with a line of moderately priced Bordeaux wines he’s sending our way. Rife with depth and finesse, they’re labeled with his name and simply by the region: St.-Emilion, Pomerol and Médoc. And they’re priced in the mostly $20 to $25 range. Now, that’s a “weekend” price versus an everyday price, but when I’m braising lamb shanks, it’s the weekend.

You, of course, are probably braising lamb on a Tuesday in your Pyrenees hut, you lucky stiff. . . . And what are you drinking with it?

Chuck says: Guilty as charged. Actually, our place is in lamb country, too—flocks come trotting by the house most days, with bells a’ jingling. And, you’re right: I can’t think of anything I’d rather be drinking with a recipe like this than red Bordeaux.

Now, Bordeaux prices can be astonishingly good over here, but at the same time, quality isn’t exactly uniform. There’s a much wider selection and with that comes some duds—duds we don’t typically find imported into the United States. So, even though prices may be higher, odds are actually a little better that you won’t completely strike out when buying an unknown Bordeaux in the States.

A Bordeaux property I love to visit, and whose wines (at least in my opinion) are consistently undervalued and underappreciated is Château Siran. It’s from the Margaux district of Bordeaux, the same area as chi-chi Château Margaux. I can’t say Siran is ubiquitous in wine shops all over the United States, but I did a quick internet search and saw it available online at prices ranging from $24 to a little more than $30. That’s truly an excellent deal for a wine of this caliber. In fact, in the aroma department—one of the best features of all Bordeaux wines—I don’t think you’ll find a better bargain.

Hearty Miso Cabbage Stew

Wini says: For this fabulous spice-fest, I’m not looking for anything acidic or tannic at all. I want something smooth and even a little bit sweet. That’s why I’m putting a sweet Riesling in the fridge for this one—the fruit is really going to taste fabulous with that heat.

Because Riesling can be made in bone-dry to nicely sweet styles, it’s nice to see that a few winemakers are putting the word “sweet” front and center on the labels. Pacific Rim Sweet Riesling is one great example, as is Blue Fish Sweet Riesling. Both are fully fruity, good-quality quaffs I’ve sipped and enjoyed recently.

Chuck says: Well, I hate to be so darned agreeable, but . . . I agree. I like the thought of lightly sweet fruitiness in a white wine here, and Riesling would fit beautifully. Just to add another one to your list, in the past I’ve mentioned Columbia Winery’s Cellarmaster’s Riesling, and that would pair really nicely here, too.

Curried Popcorn

Wini says: This is just the sort of addictive-sounding recipe that guests will love munching by the handful while mingling before a casual dinner. And casual is the word—let’s not get too high-falutin’ here.

The recipe contributor rightly suggests Asti Spumante (which these days, is simply called Asti). This simple, fruity and inexpensive sparkling wine from Italy won’t make any wine geeks swoon, but it will provide a refreshing counterpoint to the spice and salt.

But for some reason, I can’t stop thinking about French wines . . . perhaps a Blanquette de Limoux? Said to be France’s very first sparkling wine (yes, created even before Champagne), this is a little more hefty and serious than Asti, but still approachable and affordable—about $10 to $12. You may have to go to a specialty wine shop for this pick though. Unless, of course, you’re somewhere in the Southwest of France. . . . By the way, Chas., do they even do popcorn in France?

Chuck says: Wow, I’ve never even thought about it! I will start looking and asking around to find out about that!

In the meantime, for Curried Popcorn, I want to follow up on that Asti suggestion. What I like about it is that it’s taking an upscale spin on the combination of regular ol’ popcorn and soda pop. If that’s the way you want to go, I’ve got just the wine, which I poured at a tasting a couple months ago. It’s a light, sweet, ultra fresh and fizzy rosé sparkler called Bigaro. There is NOTHING serious about this wine—it’s strictly for fun, which I think makes it perfect for this.

Produced by Elio Perrone in the Piedmont region of Italy, Bigaro consists of a 50-50 blend of Moscato and Brachetto grapes, and—get this—only has 5 percent alcohol, so it’s much easier to enjoy without worrying about getting tipsy. Finally, at less than $20, it’s pretty reasonable for a quality Italian sparkling wine.

Pancetta-Wrapped Pork & Dijon Mashed Potatoes Recipe

Wini says: I gotta tell you—I’m a bit on the fence about those mustard potatoes. I’m willing to give them a try, because I’m all over that Pancetta-Wrapped Pork, especially with that lively chutney. What to drink with this riot of flavor? Mustard, especially, seems like a toughie. Do we complement mustard’s acidity with an acidic wine, or do we contrast it with something sweeter?

I say let’s go kind of in the middle with a Sauvignon Blanc (known for its acidity). But rather than a super-zippy New Zealand-style acid-fest, let’s look a more rounded California version that’s seen a touch of oak to smooth things out. A good choice: Chateau St. Jean Fumé Blanc. This one has plenty of refreshment, but its restrained acidity won’t strong-arm all the mustard in this recipe.

Chuck says: Much more than the mustard, I’m concerned about finding a wine that isn’t blown to smithereens by the chutney. I realize that it’s only served as a condiment alongside the pork, but it’s still going to have an impact on the palate. Frankly, I think we may need the acidity that you’re taking a pass on. The acidity of the mustard and especially, the chutney, is going to flatten the flavor of white wines lacking tart backbone.

Of course, the other way to go is to scrap the white wine idea entirely and opt for red. Not that that route isn’t fraught with pitfalls, too, but I simply see this recipe as screaming out for the sort of go-to, food-friendly type of wine that is enjoyable with almost anything. Really, this dish is jam-packed with so many contrasting flavors that a highly distinctive, complex or idiosyncratic wine is going to pull too much interest away from the food. So it just might be Beaujolais time. The outstanding quality of the 2005 Beaujolais vintage got me back on track with this much-maligned region, and that’s what I’d pour with this—a good quality Beaujolais-Villages, or maybe even a cru Beaujolais from 2005. A specific pick I’d like here, available in the United States, would be the 2005 Domaine des Nugues Beaujolais-Villages.

Corned Beef and Cabbage Salad Recipe

Wini says: HA! I’ve finally found a reason not to be jealous of your being in France while I’m stuck here in the Midwest. You won’t be able to find any corned beef, so you won’t be able to make this fascinating recipe! Ha!

But what wine to serve with it? Hmmm. The French, Italians and Spanish really don’t do corned beef, so there’s no precedent there. Still, I think of all those cured meats and sauerkraut in Alsace, and that’s kind of the same idea—salty meat, sharp flavors. So how about a luscious Pinot Gris? It’s the same grape as Pinot Grigio, but delightfully fuller bodied when made in places like Alsace and Washington State. A fruity and fuller version would prove mild enough not to clash with this dish, but hearty enough not to get lost amidst all those flavors. King Estate Washington Pinot Gris is a great choice. Good luck finding that in Abense de Haut, my friend.

Chuck says: OK, you’re right, I’m going to miss out on this awesome-looking recipe at the moment. But eventually, I do want to make this. And when I do, I certainly wouldn’t say no to having a glass of that King Estate alongside it. That’s one heckuva good pick, mon amie. I love Pinot Gris from the Pacific Northwest, and that body and fruit will be killer here. Right now, I’ve got a real problem I need your advice on, though.

You see, I’m about to sit down to a meal of confit de canard accompanied by lentilles du Puy, and I just don’t know whether to serve the local Irouleguy red wine or Madiran with it. And then, with my dessert of Gateau Basque, should I pour Jurançon doux or Sauternes? Oh, and I almost forgot the Ossau-Iraty sheep’s milk cheese! Yikes! Decisions, decisions . . . what would you suggest?

Wini says: Look, pal—we’ve all got problems. . . .

Seriously, if you truly want my advice, I’d pick up bottles of each one of the wines you mentioned. Something tells me you’ll find swoon-worthy matches soon, because there’s another great meal just around the corner. It is France, after all. Bon appétit!