He Says, She Says April 2008

Wini says: Hey there, Chas! We’ve got some beautiful recipes to work with this month. But before I roll up my sleeves, I want to say that I just got back from Paso Robles, Calif. — a wine-growing region that’s about halfway between LA and San Francisco. OMG! I adored it! I loved the “not Napa” feel of it—while there are plenty of world-class wineries and restaurants, there’s also a more earthy and real “Old West cattle-rancher” side to it, not to mention a graceful landscape of sloping pastures, fruit orchards and, of course, vineyards. I highly recommend the place for wine tourism, especially if you’ve “been there/done that” with the usual Cali-wine-country hotspots.

And because the in-the-cellar dollar is putting the brakes on my France trip this year, I might hitch my wagon and lumber on out there for another spell this summer.

Speaking of cellars, what are you pulling out of yours to serve with this month’s recipes? My picks follow.

Chuck says: Yo – great-sounding trip! Nothing beats stomping around vineyards, that’s for sure. Not a bad way to uncover a few under-the-radar picks, as well. So, don’t be stingy! I’m looking forward to hearing about them, either here or in your Relish column sometime soon. But for now, let’s get to these recipes!

Pesto Shrimp in Couscous

Wini says: How perfect for a lovely dinner for two! This recipe is quick, simple, but special—the kind of dish you can put together on a Friday night after a crazy week and feel like you’re treating you and your sweetie to something special.

And while we’re at it, let’s treat ourselves to something special in the glass. I’d pull out a white Burgundy with this. For those who follow their grapes, these are Chardonnays, but made in that oh-so French style—that is, balanced, elegant and none-too-woody. How about Joseph Drouhin Saint-Véran (around $14)—a pick that proves you can live large for less than $15.

Chuck says: Saint-Véran is a fav of mine, too — especially, at a bargain price like that. Should make a really nice match. The other thing we should probably point out about most of these French Chards is that they often feature a palate-refreshing crispness on the finish, which makes them particularly nice with seafood. Really, everyone ought to test this for themselves by tasting seafood with a variety of different wines. My guess is that you’ll probably conclude that you need at least a little noticeable tartness to make an enjoyable match. If you want a suggestion for another French Chardonnay noted for plenty of tanginess, give Chablis a try as well.

Salmon in Parchment Paper

Wini says: That lovely Friday night dinner I talked about above? Ditto that idea, but invite some friends over and make it a Friday-night foursome. Love the looks of this recipe—so simple, but a windfall of flavor that promises a “wow.”

I’m inclined to go with Pinot Noir, thanks to the salmon (Pinot + Salmon=classic) and those mushrooms (also a classic match for Pinot). But what about that tangy fresh cheese? That could throw the pairing off (bright red fruit + tangy cheese=a metallic mouthful). Unless, of course, we went for a darker, fruitier, lusher side of Pinot e.g., one from the New World. Any suggestions?

Chuck says: With a beautiful set-up like that, I have a hunch you might-a known where I’d take this even before I did. Could we both be thinking Oregon, per chance? And if we aren’t, then why the heck not?!

I have something in mind that seems to fit pretty much everything I think you’re looking for in a companion for this dish: New World heft and depth, a wealth of dark fruit flavors and a subtle earthy/foresty undercurrent to complement those mushrooms. I’m talking about the Mt. Jefferson Pinot Noir from a producer called Cristom. For a Pinot, this stuff is ultra-big and inky dark—you could darned near call it meaty. And I think we’d both call it a winner with salmon in parchment.

Summer Vegetables in Parchment Paper
Wini says: What? Pair a wine with a side dish? You bet! This is such a flavorful side dish, it will be the standout at the table.

But oh dear: There’s that tangy cheese again! This time, I say if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em. Let’s go for one of those zippy New World Sauvignon Blanc here (I find matching zip with zip is easier to do with whites than reds). Solid, never-let-you-down classics include Dancing Bull and Geyser Peak.

Chuck says: I’m good with that Sau Blanc, but if you’re going “zippy New World,” why not grab the original, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc? Most of these certainly won’t be intimidated by a few crumbles of feta and have enough character to liven up the whole meal. It’s true that really good Sau Blanc is being made in lots of New World locations these days — including California — but New Zealand is where the modern style originated, and I’d stick with it for this.

Rozanne Gold Mother’s Day Menu
Onion Soup, Roasted Halibut à la Bruschetta, Lemon Spinach with Toasted Pistachios, Poached Pineapple Sundaes with Cinnamon Wontons.

Wini says: As an entire menu, this could be tough. You start with the earthy onion soup, then move quickly to a main course of very bright flavors—with those tomatoes and anchovies in the halibut and the lemon in the spinach. It sounds like a gorgeous spring lunch!

Could this be a case where, rather than pulling out our hair looking for the perfect wine to match all those flavors, we instead match the wine to the occasion itself? We’re raising a glass to mom here, so let’s go with a bubbly. And let’s make it a pink one—not just because it’ll go beautifully on a spring table (and it will), but because if we choose one made from Pinot Noir, like a classic Blanc de Noirs, which is always a wee bit pink—we’ll get the food-friendly effect of Pinot Noir, but with plenty of festive bubbles.

If Mom likes her wine on the sweet side, I’d reach for a Prosecco—the fruity and approachable sparkler from Italy.

Chuck says: I’m having a heckuva time settling on only one wine for this entire menu. Although I’ve got to admit, you’ve probably hit on the best solution with that sparkling wine. But it still leaves me mildly dissatisfied — and mainly, because of the soup. And don’t try to tell me you’re over-the-moon with that particular match either. Come to think of it, your suggestion to “move quickly onto a main course” only prompts me to ask: What are you in such a hurry for? As if I didn’t know already.

So what are we going to do about it? Not a darned thing. In the end, I’m pretty much with you, except that I think I’ll go with veritable French Champagne — maybe a good, non-vintage Brut. And you know what? I’m going to enjoy it all the way through, in spite of myself. (Big of me, huh? Except, well, I might enjoy it a teensy bit more at some times than others . . . like with that fish!)

Tabbouleh with Chicken and Corn
Wini says: Yum — what a great way to say “Hello” to spring! I love the combo of mint, parsley and lemon that makes tabbouleh both heady and refreshing at the same time. For this, I’m going to reach for a Pouilly-Fumé or a Sancerre—that is, French wines made with Sauvignon Blanc, in styles that are generously herbaceous and sometimes flinty. They’re bright, as good Sauvignon Blancs should be, but they won’t turn the pairing into a zing-fest. And you?

Chuck says: Yeah, zing-fest sounds way too much like slug-fest. Let’s avoid that. But let’s do keep just enough zestiness to balance that tabbouleh tang, as you suggest. Gotta say, I think you’re playing this one beautifully with the two wines you mention. The only thing I’ll add is that white Bordeaux represents a pretty compelling variation on that Sauvignon Blanc theme. Many of these are blends of both Sémillon and Sau Blanc, and that Sémillon can add a skosh of richness that might be a really nice touch with the corn and chicken components here.

You know, looking back, it seems we’ve gotten along all too well this month. Sorry about that—must be off my game. I’ll try to get back in touch with my crotchety side before we meet again. Until then, my friend!