He Says, She Says May 2008

Creamy Asparagus Soup

Chuck says: Hi, Wini! Looks like we’ve got some spring-perfect recipes this month, and I couldn’t be more ready. In fact, I was so anxious for a spring meal yesterday that I found myself grilling outside in the middle of a snowstorm—after it had been in the 70’s earlier in the week! But hey, grilling is one area in which a person has to show some resolve, right? Make a plan. Stick to it. And don’t look back. Nonetheless . . . If you’ve got a good home remedy for sniffles and a cold, Wini, I’d love to hear it . . . A-CHOOO!

Now, let’s talk asparagus. One of my favorite spring vegetables, but it can be tough on wine. This time, I’m not too worried, though. For one thing, the broth and half-and-half in this soup are going to mellow things greatly, making the asparagus easier for wine to get along with. And for another thing, I think I’ve got a winning wine pick lined up, in any event: Grüner Veltliner. If anything can match up to a challenging vegetable like asparagus, this lovely Austrian white wine can. Usually offering a tangy-lemony finish, with some peppery spice, this is just the refreshing sip one needs in-between satisfying slurps of asparagus soup. Of course, I’ll admit, Grüner Veltliner ain’t exactly commonplace—yet. But it is definitely blasting up the popularity charts, and anyone serious about food-friendly white wines would be doing themselves a favor by making its acquaintance ASAP.

Wini says: Yes! I think your choice is GRU-VAY! My sources tell me that’s what it’s called in Austria—by the current generation of hipsters, at least. The wine might not be as common as square cats like Chard, Pinot Grigio, et al., but the hunt for it gives you a chance to mosey on into one of those groovy little independent wine shops in your area and score some dig-a-liscious picks from a righteous dude who knows his stuff.

Herbed Buffalo Burgers

Chuck says: With plenty of buffalo in the freezer, I am so ready for this! It is tongue-slap-a-docious on the grill, and this recipe’s going to bring out its best. Now, the way I’ve landed on my pick is circuitous at best, non-sensical at worst, but what the heck, it’s not like the next stop on Chuck’s career trajectory is NASA or anything, right?

So here we go: I started out thinking Argentina, because there’s such a natural affinity between many of those wines and grilled meats. (Like duh, how could there not be?!) But then I started thinking about how nicely a bold Spanish red might mesh here, which caused my mind to briefly stray to Rioja and the Tempranillo varietal, and then something bizarre hit me. Not too long ago I tasted an interesting Argentinian wine made from Tempranillo. Bingo! Argentinian Tempranillo is way different from the Spanish stuff, but in this case, vive la difference! (Or however that translates in Spanish.) Anyway, the wine is called Mapema, it’s 100 percent Tempranillo, plenty juicy, bold, and oaky, and should be delectable with grilled red meat, such as the buffalo burgers here. I’m giving it a try. You?

Wini says: I’m not sure I even want to KNOW how you got that buffalo in your freezer. I mean, when you lived in my area, I remember you were quite the do-it-yourselfer—you made your own goat cheese and cured your own ham in your very own barn. Buffalo . . . yikes. If I see a bow and arrow in your garage when I visit, I’m outta there.

I like your pick, but buffalo feels so American to me . . . kind of “Old West.” And the most “Old West” wine region I’ve ever been to is Paso Robles, where rolls of ranchlands and orchards cut a patchwork with the graceful vineyards.

I liked Paso’s reds—good California fruit, but with plenty of the earthy qualities I demand with meaty dishes. I’m a huge fan of Liberty School’s Cabernet Sauvignon. This widely available pick has plenty of fruit, but a nice bit of brightness that will keep the pairing from being overly heavy. I love the price: $15 for a really nicely crafted wine.

Smoked Salmon Kedgeree

Chuck says: Kedgeree rocks! Utterly love it as brunch fare—that’s what I’ll make this version for, next time I get a chance. And, in just the way I made that snap decision, I’m not going to dilly-dally about my wine choice, either—if it’s brunch, it’s gotta sparkle. (OK, OK, with a few exceptions . . .) But anyway, I’m going with Cava here. Quality Spanish Cava is always a big-time bargain—even when the dollar’s down. But even more, right now I want that palate-popping zip, along with the elegance and depth that long-aged Cava is particularly known for. Gramona’s Gran Cuvée Cava is aged 30 months and offers pretty much all I’m looking for to pair with kedgeree—especially at its sub-$20 price.

Wini says: Cava will never let you down (I mean seriously—I don’t think I’ve ever had a bad bottle, even the least expensive stuff!).

Cava is often dry and toasty, with the very vibrant acidity you seek when you say “palate-popping zip.” Yes, that would be my choice. But to our sweet-wine-loving readers, I’d say why not pull out a bottle of Domaine Ste. Michelle Frizzante (Columbia Valley, Washington; $12), with its nice sweet-apple flavors. Plus, I like the fact that it’s from Washington State—a place that knows a thing or two about salmon.

Picnic Menu for Mother’s Day, including Roasted Walnut and Sun-Dried Tomato Dip, Sesame Noodles with Shredded Vegetables, and Marinated Lemon Chicken Breasts

Chuck says: I’m bummed that I won’t have the chance to share this menu with Mom on Mother’s Day, but we’re planning to do some fly-fishing together this summer, so this picnic ought to be awesome then, served stream-side. For this sort of relaxed-but-active afternoon outdoors, I’m definitely not going to over-think the wine. I’ll grab an easy-going quaff that’ll be fun with all these varied food choices, maybe even a friendly red that could be plopped in the river to chill just a bit. Lots of fruit, light on tannin . . . No, this certainly won’t be revolutionary, but I can’t see how you’d go wrong with a simple Beaujolais-Villages here. It doesn’t hurt that I know Mom will love it, too—if she were more of a white wine fan, I just might be leaning that way, instead. What do you have in mind, pal?

Wini says: Well, that’s the great thing about Beaujolais—it’s one of the few wines that pleases fans of both whites and reds. Just a reminder, though—we’re not talking Beaujolais Nouveau (which should be off the shelves by now, since it’s a seasonal event tied to the post-harvest). So if you see the word “Nouveau” on the bottle, put it back. You want straight-on Beaujolais this time.

That said, I’m serving white with this menu. There are just so many great flavors here, that I want a relatively easygoing wine—I’m going for Pinot Grigio. But since I’ve got Mom in mind, the wine has to have some personality. Loads of personality, in fact. And a lot of Pinot Grigios are, well, a bit mild-mannered, which wouldn’t be the pick for my Mom (we were just driving around Des Moines recently and she showed me an apartment building that she had been kicked out of in her youth—in the 1940s—for having parties with—gasp—MEN!).

I like Luna Vineyards Pinot Grigio, which I’ve also picked for this month’s column . . . Mom’s going to love all the fruit, plus, the nicely citrusy angle will taste great on a picnic. It has a racy side . . . a good pick for Mom!

Hey—have a great spring! See you in June.