He Says, She Says September 2008

Chuck says: Hey there, Wini, do I detect a subtle change in the recipes, moving us along with the seasons? Things are looking just a tad heartier, and I, for one, am totally ready for it. I love fall food, and we’re almost there — woo-hoo!

Wini says: Woo-hoo? I say boo-hoo. I love fall food, but I hate seeing summer end! Thankfully, I spot a great grilling menu here, and that will keep me outdoors a few more meals, even if I do need to don a sweater as the sun goes down much sooner than I’d like it to. Nevertheless, let’s dig in.

Meatballs with Spaghetti

Chuck says: Now this is exactly what I’m talking about. A little extra oomph, heading into fall. And, this looks like it could become one of those go-to recipes you don’t make just once, but add to your regular rotation. I’m excited!

But I’m not going to let that excitement cause me to go out on a limb with some cockamamie wine choice. (Gee, not that I’ve ever done THAT before!) No, this time it’s classic recipe, classic wine for me—in fact, Chianti Classico. But does the “Classico” part of the name mean “classic” in the way that I referred to the recipe? Actually, no. It just means that the wine comes from the Classico district of the larger Chianti region. (Chianti consists of 8 of these smaller districts.)

Anyway, the Chianti blend relies heavily on the Sangiovese grape, whose bright, berry-laden flavors are particularly satisfying with a dish such as this. Yet, there’s plenty of backbone to stand up to that meat. So no, I’m not rocking the boat. Oh, and if you’re stumped for choices, Castello di Fonterutoli’s Chianti Classico might be one worth checking out.

Wini says: Oh, please. This one’s way too easy — of course we’re going with Chianti. It simply is the wine for red-sauced spaghetti and meatballs.

Trouble is, I think a lot of wine drinkers get scared off — initially at least — by Chianti’s sour-cherry-pie tartness. Remember, everyone, if at first sip you don’t fall in love with the bottle, taste it with food. Chianti always shines best at the table and especially with robust red sauces. Chas, you rightly mentioned the Classico region; I might only add two wines from that region that are mighty tasty: Ruffino Aziano ($13) or, if it’s a special occasion, Ruffino Santedame ($18). (Note that Ruffino here refers to the producer, not the Rufina region, also a Chianti region).

Pasta with Meatballs and Mushrooms

Chuck says: OK, if we just heard the main theme with Meatballs with Spaghetti, we’re getting quite the fun variation here. Might have to flip a coin to decide which recipe to make first. Heck, I might even have to do the same to decide which wine to pour alongside. I’m torn. Mushrooms, peas, mint . . . really interesting ingredients for wine, and not at all wine-unfriendly. So what’s got me conflicted? Well, it’s the fact that Sangiovese would make a fine friend here, as well. But extending that theme-and-variations idea to the wine, I almost feel as though I need to make a change. Or maybe not.

Awww, forget it! I’m going with another Italian, Sangiovese-based wine. I just can’t help myself. But let’s do make it interesting, shall we? 100% Sangiovese this time, and a relative of the fabulous (and fabulously expensive) Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino is made in the same part of Tuscany as its upscale cousin, from the exact same grape. BUT, it’s aged less, can be sipped sooner and is an easier-going companion for a pasta dish such as this.

Wini says: Rosso di Montalcino is definitely a winner—I’d happily raise a glass of that with this recipe any night.

But might this also be a time to mention that there are some nice new blends coming out of Chianti’s broader homeland of Tuscany? These wines can’t be labeled as “Chianti” as true Chianti must be anchored predominantly by the Sangiovese grape. Some winemakers are veering off this traditional path, combining the Sangiovese with a more prominent presence of international varieties like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon — and they can be lip-smacking good. I find them especially suitable for people who want true Tuscan character (including Sangiovese’s bright character), but more softness and richer fruit. Two fine examples in particular are: Bivio 2006 Tuscan Red ($15) and Tuttobene 2006 Tuscana Rosso ($12).

Thai Beef Salad

Chuck says: And now for something completely different, right? I love Thai food, but it isn’t always the kindest companion for wine. One thing I’m noticing that makes our job easier here, though, is that this recipe isn’t spiked with utterly blistering heat — just 1 chile for 1 1/4 pounds of steak. While that’s enough to be plenty noticeable, it doesn’t completely hamstring our wine possibilities. (Otherwise, I might just punt, saying: “gimme a Singha beer,” and calling it good. . . .)

So what do you think? Could we plug in a soft-ish, nicely tart red, my friend? Lots of people are so very red-inclined. Maybe it could even be something served slightly chilled, if so desired?

There are more wines that won’t work than wines that will, but I somehow think we might get away with fairly simple Beaujolais here, maybe Beaujolais-Villages.

Specifically, what’s in my head is ’06 Louis Jadot B-V, which is so refreshingly tangy, compared to the ’05 (which I also liked a lot, but for different reasons). Of course, a red that is not refreshing is going to be disaster with this — can’t forget that lime — so please keep in mind this is a pretty limited selection I’m making here. (And don’t bite my head off for it, OK?)

Wini says: You’re just plain wrong — not about the wine, but about me! I would never chew anyone out for serving Beaujolais with anything! This food-loving sip is of my favorite wines and the most under-appreciated wine from France. Just a quick reminder that we’re not talking about Beaujolais Nouveau, so if you spot the word “nouveau” on the label, pass it up in this case.

So, I’m with you on the Beaujolais Villages, but for a wild-card option, keep an eye out for Mingle 2006 California Red Wine. The jester pictured on this blend of Syrah, Cab and Merlot hints that this is nothing serious. Indeed, it’s a fruity (I might even say lightly sweet) and soft wine that I think will be a real winner, especially for anyone who wants to drink red wine with Thai food (a match that doesn’t always mesh). And Mingle tastes good chilled a bit, too.

Country Couture Cookout
(Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus Bundles, Pesto Catfish Packets, Grilled Corn with Chipotle Lime Butter, Rosemary Biscuits, Almond Butter Oatmeal Cookies)

Chuck says: You know, Wini, something I love about this Southern-style menu is the idea of carving out some time for one last summer-style cookout before saying goodbye to warm weather — no matter where you live and how ready for fall you might be. And in that spirit, I think it would be fun to pair just one quintessentially summertime sip with the whole menu. What do you say?

For me, no wine says summer quite like rosé, and really, the right rosé could make one heckuva a nice accompaniment to every one of these dishes. (OK, except maybe the cookies. . . .) A couple of the elements are going to make outstanding matches — I’m thinking about that Prosciutto and also the Pesto Catfish Packets. The specific rosé I have in mind is bang-up fresh and lively too, so there’s absolutely zero chance of it leaving your palate hanging with a big, dead thud, either. That would be oh, so un-summer-worthy.

Now comes the hard part. I kind of hate recommending somewhat pricier rosés because, unless you’re a total rosé nut, they’re often not worth it. But this one — County Line Pinot Noir Rosé from California’s cool Anderson Valley — is worth its just-under-$20 price tag. Made by the winemaker Eric Sussman, who is also known for making beautiful Pinots under the Radio-Coteau label, County Line has everything you might wish for in rosé. It evolves as you taste, from subtle berry flavors to honeysuckle, and finishes zesty and crisp. Color is exquisite — almost as enjoyable to look at as taste! I mean, you well know that coppery, orange-pinky hue many Provençal rosés get, right? But then there’s that flavor that all-too-often disappoints? Not so here, my friend, not so here. If you haven’t tried it already, this is one I GUARANTEE you will love.

Wini says: I am a rosé nut, but as you suggest, it has to be the right rosé! Last spring, I did a tasting of about 20 bottles of pink in a range of prices. I was shocked to find how few hit the spot. There’s always the cough-syrupy sweet versions of pink. But at the other end of the spectrum there are austere, bitter, bone-dry versions, without a whit of that tingly berry-fruit appeal you mention. What’s the point of drinking rosé if not for the berries?

You’re pick sounds great, but for those who want to go lower, a real find is Marques de Caceres 2007 Rioja Rosé. Not bitter, not sweet—it hits that perfect spot, bringing the essence of berry flavors without any sugariness. Plus, it’s pretty to look at — a deep wild-salmon pink. Best of all, this baby will only set you back about $9 — a steal compared to the 20 or so wines I tasted that climbed over $15.

So let’s raise one more glass of pink before we head into fall with heartier reds. Cheers, Chas!

Chuck says: You've got it, pal—have a great month!