email this pageTuckaway Farms Christmas Menu (Roast Pork Loin, Potatoes au Gratin, Mixed Greens with Garlic)
Wini Says: OK—I have to say it: I can’t wait to tuck into this Tuckaway Farms menu! Ha! Seriously, it’s so beautifully simple and classic—it’s a meal that anyone could pull off with aplomb and still have plenty of energy to relax and savor . . . some wine.
What’s to drink? Here’s what I adore about pork: You truly can serve red or white with this meat, so it’s a great idea to put out bottles of both (since guests generally prefer one over the other no matter what’s being served).
You’ve often heard me singing the praises of Riesling with pork, and I’ll never tire of that tune; however, with this rich, juicy roast and the creamy potatoes, I’m going to reach for something with a little more heft.
I’m thinking of a grape that, like Riesling, gets made into popular pork-friendly wines in Alsace: Yes—Pinot Gris is where I’m headed. And note that I’m not talking about the watery, mild-to-a-fault versions of Pinot Grigio, but the fuller, richer, more Alsace-like takes.
Fortunately, you can find Alsace-style bottles without shelling out money for bottles from Alsace. A few of my favorites include:
- Chateau Ste. Michelle Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley; $13): Pear and citrus, creaminess and acidity—great balance all around.
- MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris (Sonoma Coast; $20)—A good, full-bodied version of this wine, but its notes of citrus and spice will serve food well.
- TAZ Pinot Gris (Santa Barbara; $15): A wee bit floral amidst the fruit and citrus notes.
- Gallo Family Vineyards Pinot Gris (Sonoma; $15): Well rounded, with pears, apples, and citrus.
I also like Syrah because it pleases across the taste spectrum—choose wisely, and you can find bottles that offer a soft, approachable appeal, and at the same time, a complexity that pleases those looking for some character in their glass. And you don’t have to spend South-of-France prices to get there.
Here are a few I’ve imbibed with pleasure:
- Sixth Sense Syrah (Lodi; $17): A rich, ripe choice for those who like a bold, deeply fruity wine.
- Barnard Griffin Syrah (Columbia Valley; $16): A beam of brightness sparks this lively style of Syrah.
- Lockwood Syrah (Monterey County; $16): A “big” Syrah—with plush fruit, firm tannins, and a long and pleasing finish.
- Chilean Syrahs: Most bottles from Chile offer great value for the price—look for dark fruit flavors with intriguing smoke and violet notes. Favorites include: Santa Rita Reserva Shiraz ($11) and Arboleda Syrah ($15).
- Windmill Hill 2006 Syrah (Lodi; $12): A good choice for those who like their wine on the unabashedly fruity side.
Chuck Says: Well, Professor Moranville, I'm not sure there’s anything left to say! That's quite the comprehensive seminar you just treated us to. But with a menu so celebration-worthy—and so lovely for wine—I think you picked a superb time for this pairing tour-de-force.
One thing that’s especially nice is that your wines are all so affordable. So, contrarian that I am, maybe I'll just use this as an excuse to do something we usually stay away from—talking about some splurge wines. A little nutty right now? Probably—but what the heck? It’s the holiday season and if you’re ever going to celebrate, now’s the time. And what’s more, if you’re in the mood for a splurge wine, this is a magnificent menu to pair it with.
But wait. Uh-oh . . . I’ve got big problems now. I believe I am picking up what may be a howl emanating from the heartland. Yes, yes, I’m sure that it is, and it’s extending across the Great Plains . . . and heading . . . right . . . toward . . . OUCH! OK, OK, I promise not to be stupid about this. How ‘bout we stick with “splurge,” but not (as you so delicately suggest) “insanity”? Does that work for you?
Now where was I? Right: splurge wine, and an easy-going-but-special, holiday menu with roast pork as the centerpiece. Frankly, that leads me directly to one grape—Pinot Noir—maybe the quintessential splurge wine, and, no offense to your nice Syrah pick, perhaps without peer when it comes to roast pork. As for the splurge factor, tell me, do you ever see truly exceptional Pinot at dirt-cheap prices? (Remember, I’m not talking just “good” here, but something you’re going to remember a year, two years from now, if not longer.)
Enough with the further ado; I’ll give you two quick picks. First, Radio-Coteau “La Neblina” Pinot Noir from California’s Sonoma Coast. It will set you back a tad over $40. Still with me? Good. Apparently, la neblina is Spanish for fog. And that’s an apt name for this wine. Not only does it come from coastal vineyards that are often shrouded in fog, but the wine’s smoky, dark cherry flavors seem to settle and float from hints of one passing fancy (earth, forest, fresh-cut flowers) to another, in a drifting cloud sort of way. Hmm, my description is even foggy. But never mind. Give this a try.
Last I checked, the Domaine Vincent Girardin 1er Cru “La Maladière” Santenay (Burgundy, France), went for something like $35 to $40. Still with me? Well done! What I said earlier about Pinot Noir goes double for the crème de la crème of Pinot Noir, French red Burgundy. The good stuff is never cheap. In fact, it’s hardly ever this cheap—under $40. One thing that helps the price is that this is from Santenay, not one of the most renowned of Burgundy’s districts, but still awfully good when in the right hands. Let’s just say, "La Maladière" (the name of the vineyard this wine comes from) is in the right hands. When you try this, don’t expect to be instantly bowled over by some blockbusting bruiser of a wine. Its charms are subtle, but powerfully spellbinding. Especially exciting about this one is the way it evolves as it spends time luxuriating in your glass. Give it a minimum of an hour. No cheating.
Well, all-righty now! Next, because we never recommend wines to cellar, let me just offer a few selections you may begin to enjoy after 2013, starting with . . . .
Uh-oh. I a torrent of grumbling from Wini out there in the Midwest again.
Sorry, but I've gotta run, people. Better let it go at that!
Wini Says: You got that right, Charles. You were pushing your luck with the over-$30 bottles. Still, if I was going to spend more than $30 on a bottle (and I rarely do, especially these days)—that La Maladière would be the bottle.
Happy Holidays—see you in 2009!
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