He Says, She Says - May 2009

Wini says: Finally-those of us who live in northern climes can think about making the move outdoors for grilling and overall dining on the deck. As we do so with these recipes, I'm looking at Syrah, Pinot Grigio, a Tuscan wild card and a cache of rosés. As always, I'm looking forward to seeing how your picks compare to mine.

Chuck says: I'm all for the move outdoors, myself-and, a peek at your picks! Just this week, my grill was inaugurated for the season with some fat, juicy steaks. Grilled pizza sounds like a fitting follow-up, so let's dive right in.

Grilled Pizza with Mozzarella

Wini says: This is too easy! My number-one favorite grilling wine and one of my top favorite pizza wines are one in the same: Syrah. The only question is . . . Syrah from where?

Lately, I've particularly enjoyed Syrah from Washington State. A real find is Barnard Griffin Columbia Valley Syrah ($17). It's deeply fruity and full, but some quintessential Syrah spice that keeps it anything but cloying. While this should go well with the pizza, this is also a "chat with friends" wine-something you can feel really good about pouring before the food even hits the table.

My only reservation is that tomato sauce. Perhaps we should be looking at Barbera or Chianti - two shoo-ins with the zip of tomato? Still, I think the smoke from the grill, plus the fresh basil and creamy mozzarella will make the tomato a backdrop rather than the star. Your verdict, my friend?

Chuck says: I don't need much deliberation to come back with a judgment on that selection - open-and-shut in your favor, counselor! Although, because you did express slight hesitation in that closing argument, perhaps I should take just a quick look at the options you raised before resting my case?

Obviously, convincing evidence does point toward consideration of an Italian wine. We'd be guilty of wine pairing malpractice to simply dismiss this out of hand. So, I believe I'll call Rosso di Montalcino to the stand . . . .

"Signor Rosso, is it not true that you are frequently seen in the company of a tasty little dish that goes by the name of 'Pizza'?"

"Si, it is true."

"And would you mind explaining to the court why it is that you are so often an accomplice to the criminal zestiness of this hot number?"

"Being made mostly from Sangiovese means that my bright, tangy flavors almost always aid and abet . . ."  - oh, dear . . . I can't help myself!

Your honor, I think we've established that this is a wine that should acquit itself quite well in the court of flavorful opinion. I offer as exhibit A, 2006 Rosso di Casanova di Neri ($24). Any objections?


Grilled Polenta and Sausage

Wini says: Well, I happen to love Syrah with sausage, too. Yet because that tomato sauce might star even more prominently in this recipe, I'm inclined to head back to Italy for this pick. A good Chianti would work, but lately I've been enjoying wines that blend the dominant grape - Sangiovese - with other grapes. A great example of a  "Sangiovese-with-Something Extra" that I've come across is Tuttobene Toscana Rosso IGT 2006 ($12), a Merlot and Sangiovese blend that brings deep fruit with nimble food-friendly acidity.

Chuck says: Hey, another Italian dish, so I think I'll stick around in Italy just a while longer, too. In fact, one hearty, rustic Northern Italian specialty deserves another. So how about Dolcetto, from Piedmont? Although it is often referred to as "Italian Beaujolais," Dolcetto is really quite different - more tannic, less acidic, darker fruit flavors, and usually, more full-bodied than Beaujolais. (And this isn't to hype one over the other, just to point out the differences. Good Beaujolais can be a real treat, as well.) For a delectable example, try Pio Cesare Dolcetto d'Alba 2006 ($19).



Lorraine Frittata

Wini says: Quiche Lorraine with no crust to fuss with! Great idea for an easy brunch. For this one, I have two options, both from Europe. One high, one low; one sparkling, one still - plus a pinch hitter. All of them are pink - I'm just a huge fan of rosés wines for daytime drinking, as they're usually light, bright - anything but burdensome.  

For the high end, let's go over to Lorraine's neighboring region, Alsace, and get a bottle of Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Rosé ($20), a soft sparkler with bright red fruit flavors. It's going to be so refreshing between bites of those rich, creamy eggs. Somewhat easier on the wallet is Lamberti Rosé Spumante ($15), a refreshing pink from Italy.

For the budget choice - and especially if we're making the move outdoors - I'm inclined to pour the always delightful Marqués de Cáceres Rosé ($9), a pink made mostly with Tempranillo, with 20 percent Garnacha. I haven't tasted the 2008 vintage, but the 2007 was a textbook summer rosé: Neither bitter nor sweet, it hit that perfect spot, bringing the essence of berry flavors without a hint of anything sugary or sharp. Among dozens of rosés I tasted last year, this one really stood out for the price.

Chuck says: You've got this beautifully covered, and I do like the idea of a rosé here - as you say, they are spot-on for midday. But of course, midday classics also include Chenin Blanc-based wines, which can make interesting alternatives to those nice rosés, too. So let's give that a try! Vouvray, made exclusively from Chenin Blanc in France's Loire Valley, can be a most companionable brunch wine. At the inexpensive end of the spectrum, the ubiquitous Barton & Guestier Vouvray ($10) is a good place to start. Or, if you're looking for something with a bit more finesse, along with super-enticing floral notes, pick up the 2007 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier ($14), one of my very favorite domestic Chenins.



Wild Salmon Hash

Wini says: Another great brunch dish! Again, I think I'd go for an optimal daytime sipper: Rosé! But, since salmon and Pinot Noir are a go-to match, how about a rosé of Pinot Noir? The trick might be getting your hands on one, because they're often made in very small quantities. One of my favorites is Etude Rose of Pinot Noir from Carneros ($20). It's an elegant bottle that brings plenty of zip among the loads of lush fruit. If you can't find this, buddy up to a wine merchant and ask for another Pinot-based pink.

Chuck says: You are so right - this one's an absolute must! And I love the twist you did here on that classic Pinot Noir-Salmon combo by taking it in the rosé direction. Great idea, pal. I'm only going to say that if anyone's looking to go lighter, here - as in white - they might do well to consider an Oregon Pinot Gris. These tend to sport enough heft, along with just zippy enough finishes, to make them awfully tasty with full-flavored fish such as salmon. Well known as an excellent producer of Pinot Noir, Elk Cove also crafts a winning Pinot Gris. Try the 2007 Elk Cove Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($19) with this knock-out brunch recipe.



Italian Chopped Salad

Wini says: The bold flavors in zesty salad tempt me to pull out an easygoing white.  And because it's Italian, I'm inclined to reach for Pinot Grigio. From the Venezie region of Italy, Stellina di Notte Pinot Grigio ($10) is clean and delicate, but with an admirable smooth, round character that keeps it from being mild to a fault (as some PGs can be). I also appreciate that this bottle brings just 12 percent alcohol by volume (that's lower than many table wines), making it a good choice for lunchtime, which is when I'd enjoy this salad most.

Chuck says: We (OK, mostly me . . . ) have been hitting the Italian wines awfully hard over the past couple months. Not that there's a darned thing wrong with that, but I think maybe it's time for me to leap into another direction with an exquisitely crisp and refreshing wine I adore with salad - Spanish verdejo from the Rueda region. These not only offer ultra-exciting citrus notes (tailor-made for salads), but also typically represent eye-popping value. The 2007 Blanco Nieva Verdejo ($14) will let you know exactly what I'm talking about.

Until next time, my good friend!






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