He Says, She Says - June 2009

Chuck says: Are these recipes picture-perfect for June, or what? Ultra fresh flavors, speedy to make, and light, in a summer-perfect way. This fits my summer appetite - and schedule - to a tee, and looks like a killer lineup for wine pairing, as well. So what do you say we hop right to it, my friend!

Mediterranean Layered Dip

Chuck says: I loved your column in Relish so much this month that I simply can't help myself - I'm going to pilfer one of your picks! As you point out, good Torrontés is an ideal wine for all summer long, and I think its crispness and weight would make an especially fine match with this dip. I recently visited with the importer of Crios by Susana Balbo Torrontés ($15), and he mentioned that this wine is #1 of all exported Torrontés. I'm so glad you shared this wine in your column and hope you don't mind a little crossover here. Just to underscore: Anyone who doesn't know this varietal truly ought to give it a try this summer.

Wini says: Crios Torrontés has everyone talking - I just hope there are enough bottles of the current vintage to go around! If not, give one of the other picks in this month's wine column a try. I was especially happy to see that there were plenty of admirably priced bottles for casual sipping - and that will fit right into the spirit of this any-night appetizer.

Roasted Red Pepper Hummus Pizza

Chuck says: I often think light-ish red with pizza, but the roasted red pepper hummus has me singing a different tune this time around. I don't want to take any chances with refreshment value and also think that we might be happiest with something with a vibrant, character-ful, white wine nose. Now, wine nuts like us might recognize Verdelho as one of the grapes used for Madeira, but I recently ran across it in another guise - as part of an exciting blend. (And note: even though the spelling looks similar, Verdelho is different from Spanish Verdejo.)

From Australia, Marquis Philips Holly's Blend ($10) features 55% Verdelho, 29% Chardonnay, 9% Riesling, and 7% Semillon in a wine that is utterly mind-blowing at the price. From the first whiff, you get a sense of something special, and the surprisingly full mouth-feel confirms that this is indeed an unusual, satisfying, balanced and evocative wine.  

Wini says: Well, I'm going to match your one-of-a-kind blend with another one-of-a-kind blend - one that will be particularly refreshing with this pizza. Reach for Waterbrook Columbia Valley Melange 2007 Blanc ($15), a kitchen-sink montage anchored by three of the world's most fragrant grapes (Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Viognier); there's also a little Chardonnay in the mix, adding a nice roundness. I loved this wine's honeyed, sweet-blossom fragrance and ripe orchard fruit flavors. And if you appreciate some sweetness in your sip, this is a particularly great choice.  

Penne with Eggplant, Thyme and Goat Cheese

Chuck says: There's absolutely no doubt that I'll be making every single one of these pasta tosses - they look super. For this one, the eggplant has me thinking that a gentle white wine, with a full texture and a slight lift on the tail end, would be a lovely counterpoint. The Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco ($16) from the northern Italian region of Alto Adige seems just the sort of "finesse wine" I'd like for the dish.

Wini says: A gentle white - what a great choice for such a fascinatingly varied dish! And "gentle white" is also a great way to describe Chateau Ste. Michelle Pinot Gris ($13). The light-styled white brings ripe pear flavors right down the middle, but with citrus flourishes on the side to add that food-friendly spark. It's a great food wine, especially for summery dishes like this one.

Corn and Tortellini Toss

Chuck says: The flavor combinations here already have my mouth watering! And I especially want to get my hands on some ricotta salata for this - a genius stroke for bringing together the corn, basil and tomato. Seems to me, those flavors would adore the right Chardonnay.

Fortunately, over the past few years, our domestic Chardonnays have been evolving in a direction I'm really happy about. Let's just say it: Many wineries are now crafting Chards that actually go with food! These have crisper, fresher finishes and more lively flavors all around. One shining example is Alma Rosa Chardonnay ($18) from California's Santa Barbara County. This wine has vibrancy on the palate, subtle floral aromas on the nose and a lip-smacking finish that will be sheer delight with pasta.

Wini says: Your description of food-friendly domestic Chards can also apply to many of the fine bottles I recently tasted in the cool-climate regions of Chile. The best bottles - often from the Casablanca and San Antonio valleys - were neither in-your-face with oak and butter, nor did they dash too far in the zingy and bright (but slight) direction. Try Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay ($14) from the Casablanca Valley for a great balance of freshness and heft.


Shrimp and Tomato Pasta Toss

Chuck says: Wini, you've gotta know how I despise most Pinot Grigios we get in this country. So many are watery, dull and downright BORING! But I guess I should be grateful in a way, because after such a long parade of losers, when a truly interesting Pinot Grigio comes along it really stands out.

In looking over this recipe, the first thought that came to mind was that an exceptional Pinot Grigio would be wicked with it, but sheesh - where am I going to find a good bottle to recommend? Fortunately, I encountered an eye-opening version last week - just in the nick of time to pair with this dish. Marco Felluga's Pinot Grigio "Mongris" ($17) from the Collio area in northeastern Italy's Friuli-Venezia Giulia region is just the sort of plush-textured, attention-getting wine that can make you look at this varietal in a brand new light.

Wini says: Great choice! And these days, who isn't going to appreciate the way this dish stretches one pound of shrimp into six servings - thanks, in part, to that Tuscan budget standby, cannellini beans. I like your choice, but in the budget spirit of this recipe, I'm thinking I'll pour a more wallet-friendly wine. How about the Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc ($9) from the Western Cape of South Africa. It's easygoing, light and fresh in a way that I think will mesh well with the many flavors here. And it only has 12% alcohol by volume-something I always appreciate, especially as the temperature climbs.

Until next month, my friend!





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