He Says, She Says - August 2009

This month's Relish features a fresh and fabulous crop of summer recipes for the season's bountiful weeks ahead. But before we get to specific wines to pair with each, let's raise a glass to Julia Child, featured in this issue's cover story. After all, what food-lover doesn't love Julia for teaching us how to cook with expertise and humor? A glass of bubbly, please—preferably, one from her beloved France!
 
Now, on to this issue's wine-friendly recipes.
 
Heirloom Tomato Salad
 
Wini Says: I love a Sauvignon Blanc with tomatoes, but because of the potential pungency of the blue cheese, I'm going to steer clear of pickle-ish versions of the wine and reach for Chateau St. Jean Sonoma 2008 Fumé Blanc ($13). It's crisp and refreshing - just the ticket for summer—but not entirely citrus-centered. Pear, melon and spice flavors give it an inviting roundness.

Chuck Says: That sounds good to me—I want to stay away from the sharp edges, too. But as you point out, it's summer, and refreshment value still needs to be part of the mix. I'm going with a Sau Blanc that tickles your nose with the characteristic aromas you'd expect, but that's also just a tad laid back on the zing. It's the Viña Errázuriz Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($11) from Chile-inexpensive, uncomplicated, satisfying Sauvignon.


Peach and Prosciutto Salad
 
Wini Says: With salty prosciutto jazzing the sweet peaches in this salad, I'm hankering for a Riesling—a lusciously fruity wine famous for they way it gets along with cured meats. I recently tasted Villa Maria Private Bin 2008 Riesling from New Zealand. At $18, it's a splurge, but with its citrus and apple flavors amidst a flinty, mineral backdrop, it reminded me of something elegantly French.

Chuck Says: Hey, I tasted a good one for this not long ago. Not that I don't like the Riesling—I certainly do - but reading through the recipe brought back memories of tasting the 2008 Balletto Pinot Gris ($14). The way I see it, if thinking about a dish brings to mind a particular wine, you've just got to go for it, right? (OK, I accept that there may be a flaw in that logic, but it's my wee little brain, and you're stuck with it. . . .)

Anyway, once you stick your nose into a glass of this stuff, logic will be the furthest thing from your mind, because pure hedonistic pleasure is going to take over—in fact, you're probably even going to catch a whiff of peach in that exciting bouquet. Finally, as with that Riesling, there's depth galore, lending a silky complement to the fleshy mouthfeel of the dish. In my occasionally humble opinion, you're not going to go wrong with either of these picks.


Curried Fish and Watermelon Kabob

Mediterranean Watermelon Sala

Watermelon Gazpacho
 
Wini Says: What wine pairs best with watermelon? I can't think of anything better than a rosé - and not just because the wine's color will match the vibrant pink of the fruit on your table. The best rosé, like watermelon, offers lush fruitiness and plenty of refreshment. I offered quite a few suggestions in this month's wine column, but here's another: Banfi Centine 2008 Rosé ($13), a crisp, dry take with hints of luscious berry flavors.
 
Chuck Says: Yup, those were great selections, top to bottom, so I'm just going to spin you a little the other way by suggesting that a value-oriented sparkle wouldn't be out of place here, either. So if you're looking for a little tingly-zingly in a pink-hued spritz, pop open a bottle of Cristalino Brut Rosado Cava (about $11).


Fire-Roasted Corn Salsa on Grilled Steak
 
Wini Says: It's rosé time again! Our choice for this is the admirably priced 2008 Marqués de Cáceres Rosé ($9)—its delicate fruit and lively freshness will mesh well with the many flavors that are going on here.

Chuck Says: Amen, sister—that's our pick, and we're sticking to it! Of course, this selection may have some wondering why we're steering clear of that go-to choice for grilled beef, a hearty red. Well, it's the bold spiciness that's calling out for something less tannic here than the big, bad red you might normally choose with steak. Rosé negotiates the spice just fine, while giving us plenty of substance to savor.


Grilled Eggplant Pita Sandwiches
 
Wini Says:  Hey! This recipe comes from your friend and mine, David Feder, whose creations never fail to delight.  

For Feder's fascinatingly Asian take with the purple plant, I'm looking for a Pinot Noir from Chile. On a recent visit to that country, I discovered that the terrain has plenty of cool regions perfect for growing this grape. Winemakers there mentioned how well Pinot Noir went with Asian foods, and it made sense. Many Chilean Pinots I tasted were soft, fruity and bright, but without that high-acid tartness (sometimes found in Pinot) that would fight with spice. Montes Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley; $15) offers a good, moderately priced intro to what Chilean Pinot Noir is all about.
 
Chuck Says: Wouldn't expect anything less than a killer recipe from ol' pal David Feder, and Pinot Noir sounds like exactly the right wine for it. Now, we might not immediately think Chile for Pinot Noir, any more than we might think, say, Italy. But what if I told you I recently tasted a pretty decent Italian Pinot (albeit, with a bit of Syrah and Carignane blended in, another anomaly), imported and bottled by a California producer, and at a rock-bottom price? If THAT ain't a wild confluence of wackiness, I don't know what is! But get this: the wine I'm talking about is a 2007 Beringer Founders' Estate Provincia di Pavia Pinot Noir (about $9). Is it the sort of Pinot to get all snooty about? Heck no, but at the price, and for its honest-to-goodness, food-friendliness, I'm sure not complaining.

I have to admit, if I didn't love the town of Pavia, Italy, I might have given this a pass. But this wine only goes to show that sentiment counts. It opened my eyes to a really nice bargain, and even though the wine might sound a tad strange, I suggest you give it a try.


Summer-Fresh Ratatouille
 
Wini Says: How about a South-of-France wine to go with this South-of-France dish? Lately, I've been tasting a lot of Grenache, a red grape that makes wines that are fruity without being jammy, with a tannin factor hovering around zero (and who needs mouth-drying tannins in summer?). In fact, it's so low in tannins that it's often blended with other grapes (notably Syrah and Mouvedre) to add structure. I recently tasted Jaboulet "Parallèle 45" Rouge 2006  (Côtes du Rhône, France; $13), an earthy-spicy pick with dark fruit and a brightness that will make you really want to dig into something robust, like this heady stew.

Chuck Says: Haven't I been a good boy this month? Not one crazy-priced wine! Everything I've recommended so far has been pretty darned reasonable. So now I ought to hit you with a real Lulu! But I'm not going to. In fact, I'm STILL feeling so doggone agreeable that I'm going along with you one last time (ahh, but wait till next month . . .). In other words, while I'm not going with Côtes du Rhône, I am snagging your suggestion of Grenache, or Garnacha, as it is known in Spain.

The 100 percent Garnacha, 2007 Artazuri ($10) from Bodegas Artazu in Navarra, Spain is a mind-blowing bargain that will knock your socks off alongside this wicked Ratatouille. I mean it - I'm talking, seriously spectacular deal. Why? It packs the density, finesse, depth and grace you would not usually expect to find in a wine under, say, $25. Purity of expression, with a mix of dark and bright fruit flavors, backed up with superbly balanced tannins, and it's all GOT to be because the fruit is pulled from 40- to 60-year-old vines-and remember, vine age makes all the difference with Garnacha/Grenache, and Spain's got some oldies and goodies.

Tell you what, Wini. I'm not sure either of us started out this month with value as the most important concern. But looking back, every single one of these wines—even the pricier ones-is well worth the dosh. And in some cases, they're out-and-out steals. It was a pleasure, my friend—I'll look forward to next month!

Wini Says: Indeed, Chuck—with values galore, this was my kind of month! Till next time!







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