Much Ado About Wine — September 2009

This month we're on the cusp—hanging onto summer with dishes featuring garden-fresh produce, yet inescapably turning the corner into fall. I suppose the best way to take the sting out of having to say goodbye to such a glorious season is to simply come up with a roster of wines so delectable that we'll welcome whatever comes our way.

It is punishing work of course, and stiff upper lip we must. And so, to the grindstone, I say! Indeed, this fearsome toil (eased with a measure of levity) may be the only way to stave off the looming winter of our discontent.

Red Apple Salad with Oranges and Feta
Chuck says: Oh, woe . . . in reflection upon these forthcoming labours, methinks mine elbow hath strain'd overly. And still, constant comrade, what thinkest thou upon the fair mélange offered here, brimming with succulence, ripe with tart-sweet fruit, struck full with brine-bitten backbone of bright cheesy-ness from some far-off Wisconsin-ian urn?

I might, with reticence borne of previous slings and arrows, proffer these modest words:

What a piece of work is an Albariño, how noble of mouth-filling texture, how infinite in salad-friendly faculties, in form and zippitude, how smack-a-licious and expressively admirable? In this propitious coupling, Chardonnay delights not me - nor Pinot Grigio neither.

Doth the lady protest? (And surely, if so, too much. . . .) Mine counsel: 2007 Laxas Albariño ($16).

Wini says: I bear no malice against your choice, good sir, though the cursèd $16 required grieves me heartily. Upon this recipe, I dispatch the Salneval 2007 Rias Baixas Albariño ($10), possessed of all you boast of with your dearer pick, but mine prevaileth at a fairer price.


Stuffed Baked Tomatoes

Chuck says:
I can only admit that it's true - my tomatoes have been very few
Yet how can I say fond adieu, with summer's lease still in view?

A solution shall I find
(Despite my wine-addled mind)

Lo, there!
What light through yonder window breaks?
It's a lightbulb: "Wine of the subtlest, this dish takes!"

Thus comes divine vision, dream, revelation
"Duh," sez me, "guess we're talkin' Chenin?"

"Yes, you dip-s@#$", I sense the reply
(Which, being sensitive, brings a tear to my eye)

So ends what for me has been fun
(While you're awfully glad that it's done)
Suggested pairing? It's L'Ecole 41*

* Footnote: L'Ecole No. 41 "Walla Voila" Chenin Blanc Washington ($14)

Wini says:
Your choice is as tedious as a twice-told tale.
A better pick, I am sure to nail.

For listen, you silly wonk -
The choice for tomatoes is Sauvignon Blanc!

"Nay," you may say, "for as summer quits
Sauvignon's brisk zip is the pits!"

Indeed, as the temperatures go down
Reach for something more fruity and round.

Sauvignon Blanc is still my choice,
With one minor caveat I need to voice:

Choose one that's none-too-picklish nor slight
Or with these tomatoes, they will fight!

A rich, minerally bottle from Chile* is my pick.
With this luscious, cheesy recipe, it's sure to click.   

* Footnote: Good choices include Matetic "EQ" ($18); Viña Garces Silva "Amayna" ($20); Montes Limited Selection ($15), and Los Vascos ($14).


Basque Chicken

Chuck says: Of Basque Chicken dost we thinketh aliketh? Only time shall telleth. But on this one, I doubteth. . . .

For what's in a name? That which we call Irouleguy, Madiran and Buzet, such stuff as dreams are made on. Yet these big-hearted reds are known but scarcely outside rural southwestern France. When ensconced within that undiscovered wine country from which the trio hails, I would drink virtually nothing but, alongside hearty Basque Chicken. I exhort you to go to the trouble of seeking out any wine from this triumvirate of obscure appellations, difficult though it may be to find. Remember well: How poor are they that have not patience.

Wini says:
Irouleguy, Madiran and Buzet?
To that, I say, nay, nay nay…
(Unless you can find them, well, then OK. . . .)

A pox on such obscurity. Perchance the pleasures of these bottles are indeed worth the travails of seizing them. I entreat you, however, to consider an equally valorous (yet more handily won) choice, Rioja, hailing from the Rioja region of Spain (and not too far from the lands of your cryptic picks). Earthly delights abound in this varietal - a fine companion to this hearty Basque stew.  


Braised Chicken and Vegetables
Chuck says: Once more unto the breach, dear friend, once more . . . .

Here bird of new feather I see
So I scrumptious wine shall decree
Though with still one more rhyme
Must you yet bide your time
Before its fair name is set free

There once was a wine of great stock
In fact, it's from Languedoc
GSM is the blend
Ain't that quite the trend?
To bottles of this folks will flock.

The name of said red has come slow
And that's just 'cause I love to crow
Of this nectar's grace,
balance fully in place
The wine, Chateaux de Lascaux*.

*Footnote: Château de Lascaux Coteaux du Languedoc 2007 ($17).

Wini says:
A red from Languedoc, you say
For once, you've not led us astray
So Wini agreed,
"GSM indeed!
I'm with you all the way!"

Just one quibble I daresay
And surely this won't dismay
Something a tad easier to find    
That's been on my mind
Is the spicy and elegant "Z Cuvée"*

* Footnote: Zaca Mesa 2006 Z Cuvee ($20)






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