Wines, Beers and Ciders – October 2009

Greek-inspired meatballs . . . Shrimp with Grits . . . Venison stew . . . and quick, enticing ways with rotisserie chicken. This harvest of autumn-friendly recipes merits worthy sips to go with. And this month, it's not all about wine (schnapps, anyone?).

Broiled Feta with Roasted Peppers and Olive Salad, Soutsoukakia (Meatballs), and Greek Yogurt with Fresh Pears and Toasted Walnuts

Wini Says: Can you believe these recipes? Few foods garner more raves than an oozy, melty cheese dish and savory meatballs—and here are two amazing, all-new takes on both. This is some seriously good casual dinner-party fare.

While Greek in nature, I'm afraid I'm going to pass on the Greek wines (unless you can point me to some winners). I can't say I've tasted any that have made me swoon (Ever had Retsina? It's treated with pine-tree resin and tastes like, um, pine-scented household cleaners…).  

Let's stick with some easy-to-find, food-loving Mediterranean wines at party-friendly prices. In this month's wine column, I mention Banfi Centine Bianco ($12). A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio, this bright delight, with rich pear and soft lime notes, will make for a lively, refreshing apéritif and will move fluently to the table as you dig into the first course of that luscious broiled feta.

When the meatballs make their appearance, open a bottle or two of Banfi Centine ($12), the red version. The fruity, medium-bodied wine's supple tannins won't fight with all the fascinating flavors here.

Chuck Says: I'd say you have this pretty well covered except for one thing—dessert. And this is not something we want to overlook! Many options would work with the classic combo on offer, but something has me thinkin' Muscat here, maybe a Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise? These can offer especially lovely, entrancingly perfumy aromas, and with the slight bitterness of the toasted walnuts? Oooh-la-la!

Lime Cilantro Soft Tacos

Wini Says: This recipe is all about ease—it starts with a good rotisserie chicken from the supermarket. The only match for this is a supermarket wine; after all, who wants to go chasing around town for a rare bottle with a warm, ready-to-relish chicken wafting its tempting aromas throughout the car?

With close to a million bottles made, Hogue Cellars Columbia Valley Riesling ($10) is an easy find; it's also large-scale wine done right, bringing some luscious fruit flavors that will meld beautifully with the spices here.

Chuck Says: Sure, that's one way to look at it, but with all the time you saved you could easily take an extra lap around town shopping for wine! Why not? Doesn't that sound like such a fun way to end the day? Maybe not, so I'm with you. Teaming that Riesling with a weeknight winner like this seems like precisely the right way to go. And for another option that'd work equally well, don't forget Gewurz—its unusual, spicy-fun aromas would be sure to tickle one's fancy here. Stay in the Pacific Northwest with Columbia Winery Gewürztraminer ($12).

Pizza Bianca with Chicken, Caramelized Onions and Fontina

Wini Says: This one also calls for an easy find, but with slithery caramelized onions and rich, creamy cheese, I'm looking for some heft in my glass. How about a Chardonnay. Good go-to Chards, all reasonably priced, include Bridlewood (Monterey County), Liberty School (Central Coast), and Blackstone (Monterey County).  

Chuck Says: Yum—can't wait to get my mitts on this luscious lip-smacker! And I have no bone to pick with that Chardonnay choice either. But what I will say is that the slightly lighter side of Chard can still give you plenty of that oomph you're after, while also kicking in a skosh more refreshment value, lifting the palate on the finish. For a budget-friendly pick, reach for Snoqualmie Chardonnay ($10), yet another enjoyable and easy-to-find bottle from Washington's Columbia Valley.

Shrimp and Grits and Shrimp with Smoked Sausage and Roasted Peppers

Wini Says: Wow, two boldly flavored, folksy takes on shrimp. The first recipe brings smoky bacon and earthy mushrooms to the mix, all served on creamy, cheesy grits. The second has some lively spices and meaty sausage. Clearly, this is no time for any la-di-da snooty sommelier picks! Yeah, Chas.—I'm talking to you.

With the down-home nature of these, what do you say we grab a six pack of cold ones? A good choice is Kronebourg's 1664-a rich yet refreshing beer from Alsace with citrusy hops flavors. Like these recipes, it's strikes a good balance between straightforward and refined.

Chuck Says: You know, you are just no fun at all. First you pick on me unmercifully with that "snooty sommelier picks" cheap shot, and then you add insult to injury by offering yet another choice that I'd have a hard time arguing with. Not fair. But, as much as it pains me to say it, this truly is one of those times when wine might not be the right choice. Beer is, and 1664 has such an aristocratic pedigree—and flavor—that it makes skipping wine a whole lot easier (for one night, anyway). If you can't find 1664, however, do still opt for a high-quality brew. Just about anything from Belgium, a veritable wonderland of beer, ought to do.

Venison Stew

Wini Says: Again, I'm tempted to veer away from wine with this one. Just as a good beef Burgundy tastes best with Burgundy wine, this apple-y stew will be most amazing with some hard apple cider. Any serious beer merchant should sell hard cider—Woodchuck is a nicely "apple-y" well-respected brand.

And considering the richness of this stew—and the kinds of sportsmen that will most enjoy it—I might finish off this meal with some apple brandy or apple schnapps as a digestif (though I'd never use that word around the kind of he-men I'd be serving this to).

Chuck Says: Yeah, like you say—real he-men like myself, well, we'd get mighty steamed being served something with a silly name like that digestible or whatever-ya-call-it. Forget that! But I do like a good hard cider. Excellent choice, my friend—I do think it'll fly.

Yet it's maybe not the only thing that'll fly, and one recipe without wine is enough for me right now. The thing is, while that cider is going to be a presence in the stew, it's not the only thing—there's a slew of veggies, plenty of beef broth, and a splash of Worcestershire to round things out. And oh, yeah, we don't want to ignore that venison now do we? So what am I getting at, in a roundabout way? We can (and I believe, must!) think long and hard about a game-friendly red for this. OK, thinking's over. It's Pinot Noir. Grab one you like, or if you're looking for a celebration-worthy selection from me—tailor-made for this particular dish—go for the spendy-but-worth-it Alma Rosa Pinot Noir ($38).






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