Pairings for August 2010

This month’s recipes explore flavors from around the globe, bringing summer to a close in cosmopolitan style. Let’s do some exploring of our own as we seek out ideal companions for these international delights.— Wini Moranville and Charles Smothermon

Coconut Chicken Curry
 
Chuck says: This chicken curry is a step above the ordinary — and the garnishes help lift it to the super-special category. I can’t wait to give this a try. One thing it has in common with Thai curries is the spicy red chile: Four tablespoons’ worth! This heat has me a little gun-shy about picking a wine. But still, I think a wine with a tiny sweet lilt could work out just fine. Let’s try Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling ($9). It is inexpensive and not overly sophisticated — perfectly pleasant characteristics for this wine-challenging (but scrumptious!) dish.
 
Wini says: I appreciate the inexpensive pick, but, frankly, this is such an opulently spiced dish, I might just go for something a little more sophisticated. Try Villa Maria Estate Riesling ($20) from Marlborough, New Zealand. With its freshly floral fragrance and citrusy-peach flavors, it will work beautifully as a classy summer apéritif, then serve you well as you tuck into this spicy bowl of wonder. P.S.: It’s just 11.5% alcohol —something we can all appreciate in warmer weather.

Japanese Beef and Vegetable Hot Pot
 
Chuck says: Although this dish sports plenty of hearty beef, I’m still not tempted toward a powerful red. It’s summertime, the livin’ is easy, and the best fit here will be a wine offering simple sippability over sophistication. Just yesterday I tried Perrin & Fils Côtes du Rhône-Villages ($15), and found it utterly lovely. I’d find it even lovelier alongside this delicious beef and vegetable hot pot.
 
Wini says: For me, the straightforward beef-and-vegetable flavors of this recipe allow for a little extra character in the wine. But like you, I’m not reaching for a powerhouse bottle, either. How about the inexpensive, good, and widely available Columbia Crest Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($11), a fruity-soft pick with pleasing hints of spice that will add welcome dimension to this pairing.

West African Peanut Soup
 
Chuck says: At first, I’ll admit to being stumped by this dish — it is chock-full of diverse flavors. But it also features a full, rich texture. And that texture is what helped me settle on a luscious Viognier as just the right wine to complement not only flavors, but also mouth feel. Cline Sonoma Coast Viognier ($16) balances heft with a bit of zip, and brings a panoply of palate-pleasing fruit that’ll make both food and wine shine in a harmonious twosome.
 
Wini says: I like where you’re going with the Viognier — I think a little heft is needed here. Trouble is, great Viogniers can be hard to find at moderate prices (your pick is admirable, by the way). So, I might head for Viognier’s more popular sister, Chardonnay, which is widely available at this price point. As with your Viognier pick, the ones I’m reaching for are fruity, round and bright — and not overly oaked. Two admirable finds are Buried Cane Washington State Chardonnay ($13) and White Horse Central Coast Chardonnay ($17).

Keshi Yena (Chicken-Stuffed Cheese)
 
Chuck says: This looks amazing! Initially, I thought there had to be a mistake. Surely it had to be chicken stuffed with cheese — not the other way around! But now that I’m clued in, I’m dying to make this. What wine will I pour alongside? Frankly, that decision isn’t any easier here than it was with the peanut soup, because this dish offers a similarly varied ingredient list. From pickles, peppers and olives, to raisins, chicken and that tantalizing Gouda, there sure is a lot going on. So I’ve settled on summertime-steady rosé. Touting refreshing fruit and just hint of backbone, it ought to give us plenty of flavor interest to complement this exciting dish. I especially like the thought of slurping Yalumba Y Series Sangiovese Rosé ($10) in-between bites here, but if you can’t find that one, feel free to sub your favorite pink.
 
Wini says: What a fascinating dish with lots of oozy-good flavors! I’m with you on the rosé — and I also happen to admire roses made of Sangiovese. Try Robert Oatley Mudgee Rosé of Sangiovese ($15) and Waterbrook Columbia Valley Sangiovese Rosé ($13) for crisp, vibrant sips with teasing red fruit tinges.

Jamaican Jerk Chicken
 
Chuck says: Uncle! Sometimes you just have to know when to give in, realizing that as much as we’d like it to, wine doesn’t always click perfectly with everything. Scotch bonnet peppers are wickedly good, and they’re blisteringly hot. While it’s not impossible to find a wine that would be OK with that heat, I have to be honest and say that I’d most enjoy a good beer with this spicy grilled classic. Keep it authentic — like this recipe — and grab a Jamaican Red Stripe lager.
 
Wini says: Make that two Red Stripe lagers, please.
 
Bruschetta with Tomato and Arugula
 
Chuck says: I love this straightforward, simple and satisfying bruschetta recipe. It’s darned hard to beat this time of year — especially if you’re pulling fresh tomatoes and arugula from the garden! Let’s keep the wine simple too, opening a varietal that always goes swimmingly with fresh and vibrant summertime fare like this. Yup, you guessed it — lively Sauvignon Blanc. While shopping at Costco the other day, I snagged a bottle of the store brand Kirkland Signature Ti Point Sauvignon Blanc ($9), which hails from Marlborough, New Zealand, killer sauv blanc country. Although the wine lists for 9 bucks, my local Costco had it for $7.99. At list price it’s a bargain; at this price, it’s an out-and-out steal.
 
Wini says: This month’s “Good Glass of Wine” column features some good bets with tomatoes. Another good tomato-worthy pick I recently discovered is Sylvaner. This white-wine grape used to be ubiquitous in Germany, but today is less so. Silvaner has notable acidity (like a Sauvignon Blanc), but also a soft, easygoing appeal that won’t fight with all that spicy arugula and those zippy tomatoes. Try Castell-Castell Silvaner ($17) from Germany — or ask a local wine merchant to point you to a bottle.

Grilled Achiote Chicken
 
Chuck says: The suggestion of serving the chicken shredded in the sauce with warm tortillas is SO on–target — tangy, herby and immensely satisfying. And now with that warm weather combination, how about turning to a wine that gets all too little play? Portuguese Vinho Verde has slight effervescence that’s peerlessly refreshing — plus, it’s great with citrus and a delight with grilled foods. For a specific wine to try, look for Arca Nova Vinho Verde ($8), which has just the right amount of sprightly spritziness, along with charming fruit.
 
Wini says: Right on! The spritzy touch and low-alcohol appeal of Vinho Verde makes it perfect for both the food and the mood of a summer cookout featuring this dish. Vinho Verde comes cheap, too. Another fine pick is Twin Vines Vinho Verde ($8). Serve it ice cold—I wouldn’t even say no to plunking a few ice cubes in the glass.






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